95 Talon TSi AWD

[b00sted_spyder]

Originally Posted by DSMINMN

I've been doing some thinking lately and have run into a minor problem. Air flow Dodge ifferent coolers/devices. The intercooler up front won't be a big deal, the ducting for my air filter will be fine (passenger side inlet) but what about that transmission cooler. There's no way it'll sit in the factory location. Maybe if I turn it to an angle but then what good is that.

My idea for a solution: Chrysler, as terrible as they were with transmissions made a helluva cooling setup on the automatic Cummins trucks. The cooling went as follows: trans. out/hot, heat exchanger (fluid to water/coolant cooler), to front air cooler then finally back to the trans. in/cool.

What does everyone think of this idea? Using the coolant as a source of cooling for the transmission fluid rather than an air cooler?

Did you replace the cooler lines? I remember you saying you were going to with AN fittings and ss lines. Dodge diesels have a one way check valve in the cooler system. Hopefully you didn't ruin that because that can definitely cause a transmission failure. We'll if you need a help, Paul at Proven Force knows a ton about dodge diesel transmission. He rebuilds tons of them.

[DSMINMN]

Originally Posted by b00sted_spyder

Did you replace the cooler lines? I remember you saying you were going to with AN fittings and ss lines. Dodge diesels have a one way check valve in the cooler system. Hopefully you didn't ruin that because that can definitely cause a transmission failure. We'll if you need a help, Paul at Proven Force knows a ton about dodge diesel transmission. He rebuilds tons of them.

You are behind my friend! All of the lines got replaced. If it were there from the factory it is now GONE. The check valve is part of one of the cooler lines. It is near the front air cooler where the hard steel line changes to rubber. As I said, all this went bye-bye.

The truck has also been picked up two Sundays ago I believe to be fixed. I don't have the time nor do I have the patients to fix it. Besides the lack of tools, help and money; most important.

[DSMINMN]

Well, this is really all I have for you guys. Work hasn't been hella' busy but I have been with other stupid things. Working on other people's cars, wasting money on fixing my Colt. lol Stupid stuff.

Got everything cleared for the MAP FMIC.




I have an idea of how I am going to get this turbo onto this manifold.




Now, if only I could get this damn thing to cooperate!

[bigboostingst]

Originally Posted by DSMINMN

Now, if only I could get this damn thing to cooperate!

Clamp a large vice grip onto it and slowly tighten the grip. That's what I've always had luck doing anyways.

[DSMINMN]

So since you guys don't like my idea of using a heat exchanger, what are your opinions? Or alternate options.

[DSMINMN]

I finally took two hours off of work and picked up a engine lift. In a few I will be putting the engine on my stand and start the fun. If you can even call it that. lol

I just thought I'd snap a picture of the flex plate now that it's fully off of the engine. Nasty looking. It 110% explains the sound the car had.

[DSMINMN]

I'm bored so why not let the cat outta' the bag.

2.3L, Big-Borg., 2150s...the things.



$40 head that has yet to be touched.



This'll be fun.

[DSMINMN]

Forgot my newest "toy".

[DSMINMN]

Oliver Billet Extremes and Wiseco HDs ordered. They should be there by the time I get back from PRI. So much goodness coming out of this December. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself.

[goodhart]

Damn. Gonna be a hell of a build.

[DSMINMN]

I got teased today while at the AETC conference here in Indy. Can't wait to get back and make shit happen.

[DSMINMN]

Pictures are kinda' isht. Didn't realize my phone was focusing on the background so I tried fixing it. Anyway..parts are here. I'm just waiting to get back to school next week and start doing some work! Gotta' order the rest of the junk too. Yikes..








I've also been trying my hand at this wire tucking business. I think I've kind of tackled this backwards though. Oh well.. Now if I could just find my damn soldering iron!





That's all the updating I have for now. Thanks for looking!

[DSMINMN]

[DSMINMN]

I decided to bring everything into school today so the ball will be rolling, finally!

[DSMINMN]

The crank I had was showing some signs of oxidation and had a gouge on the front main seal journal. Rather than waste more money, play the guessing game and whatever else, I just did what had to be done.



Rough stroker clearance.





Still have to get the oil passages done up like my GS-Ts block.

[DSMINMN]

Ran into a little issue with the Evo.III block. This pretty much explains it all.



It's my fault for not spinning the block around on the align hone. Here's a question to machining minded people: what is the best way you've found to take down all the caps on the girdle? How about the block? I've been using a 12" file for the block and our flat sanding block for the girdle. The flat sanding block is so damn short though that it gives me about an inch to move it back and forth. Not to mention I don't have a long enough piece of sand paper to fit under all of the caps.

I'm very close to grabbing a spare block of mine and starting over. Just seems unfortunate to jump ship with the E.3 block being its such a better casting and has oil squirters.

Thanks for any advice in advance!

[DSMINMN]

Since time is of the essence and I was given no other choice than to sand the girdle and start over I decided to just that; with a different block. I just so happen to have what looks like another Evo.III block. Maybe I'm wrong but none-the-less it had spun the bearings in one of the rods and the crank walked so I made some art.




The block went into the oven today. Tomorrow will be a go in the wash, then a quick trip in the oven to dry, steel shot then a good tumble. After that tap, tap, tap some holes and onto a align hone. Let's see what I can get done in 9 hours.

[DSMINMN]

Well as usual something happened. lol The crankwalked block gave me a huge runaround. First we had issues getting a straight bore out of our Rottler.



I measured the centering fingers and came up with a .022" difference. This was our issues; or so we thought. After ordering two new sets from Rottler but before closing the shop we found a new set of fingers.



I tested them in/on a virgin cylinder and had the exact same results. I also misread the boring fixture's mic/incorrectly set the bit. So I cut the top of the cylinder .030" down at about 3.453"" instead of 3.353". Not a huge deal but not exactly something I will allow to happen again!

My instructor and I moved the block to the Kwik-way. I had the same results there. I had my instructor come over and he tried centering the boring bar. It bored alright but something was still off. What we found had me more than upset. Looking back at it I was more happy; I took it as a sign this block wasn't meant to be used. Take a look at the odd cutting characteristics at the top and bottom of the cylinder.



So I jumped on the "line" hone with the Evo.III block. After a flat file, precision block and some sand paper I brought down the girdle. I bolted it up and seen where I needed to take more. I spent the rest of the day as well as the next honing and spinning the block. I moved all of the "caps" to within...I'd say .0003"-.0004" of each other. This is at the most as far as variation goes.

I had the mic set to the middle of the spec so 2.402". This left me with .0004" on each side to vary. None of the caps were over .0002"..if any were even at .0002". lol

Anyway, thanks for reading!

[goodhart]

What's the spot in the cylinder wall in that last pic ?

[DSMINMN]

That would be the hole that showed up on a .015" cut. Something was definitely off in this block. Very odd. Whoever C&S Engines was..idk man. Crankwalked, spun rod bearing, screwy cylinders & uneven deck surface. Messy stuff.