Wanted, garage heat! - Page 2

**goodhart** · 11-28-2014

^Score ! I need to find that kind of deal

**JET** · 11-30-2014

Only downside to the heater is that it is ventless. Even being natural gas the fumes do build up. Not a huge deal, every couple of days I open up a garage door for a couple of minutes and get fresh air in. It has worked great on my painting project. I plan on putting a bigger boiler in for the in floor heat so I will get rid of this then probably. I may just keep it around to help heat it up quick if I need to. It mounts on the wall out of the way. There are lots of them on craigslist for $75.

turbotalon1g · 12-02-2014

Just the section, take soapy water spray connection to check for leaks.

I had to do this for my drier in my place, I was mega scared, but the house didn't explode so I take it as a job well done.

**JET** · 12-02-2014

It is just a threaded fitting that goes in your gas manifold. You may have to shut the house down temporarily if there isn't a valve on the run you will be working on. Once you get the valve in you can kick it back on. You seal the threads with Harvey seal or liquid ptfe.

Speedfreak · 12-07-2014

Went to Menards yesterday and checked out the csst stuff. Getting more comfortable with the diy option.

In trying to figure out where to place the heater, I have two good spots. Each would be sourcing the gas from a different ng gas line. Each would be from a similar junction (see pictures).

My question about the two junctions. They both have a cap at the same point, pointing toward the ground, near where they enter a furnace. Is this a valid point to take ng from? Just curious, as it seems like there is no reason to have those "T" junctions at those points other than maybe there is a reason for those caps at those points?

**Goat Blower** · 12-10-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Speedfreak

Went to Menards yesterday and checked out the csst stuff. Getting more comfortable with the diy option.

In trying to figure out where to place the heater, I have two good spots. Each would be sourcing the gas from a different ng gas line. Each would be from a similar junction (see pictures).

My question about the two junctions. They both have a cap at the same point, pointing toward the ground, near where they enter a furnace. Is this a valid point to take ng from? Just curious, as it seems like there is no reason to have those "T" junctions at those points other than maybe there is a reason for those caps at those points?

I'd google it a bit. I know water lines have that extra length acting as an anti-hammer relief. Older houses have that hammering sound sometimes, this cured that. I'm not sure if it's the same for gas, but it's worth checking into. I T'd mine off the copper line in the ceiling above my hot water heater, and ran more copper line out to the garage.

Speedfreak · 12-07-2014

Could only attach one pic per post..

**JET** · 12-10-2014

Yes, you could tap in to the gas line there. The csst was really easy.

**Halon** · 12-10-2014

Momin, the guy texted me back finally, he's supposed to come over Saturday to give me a real quote.

**JET** · 12-10-2014

1/4 psi won't be creating any hammering

**Goat Blower** · 12-10-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

1/4 psi won't be creating any hammering

Is that all the pressure is? I thought it was like 5 psi.

Ha, the gas mixers I sell here at work operate at almost 150 psi incoming, with up to 4500 l/min of flow. I'm not used to this wimpy house stuff.

**JET** · 12-11-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

Is that all the pressure is? I thought it was like 5 psi.

Ha, the gas mixers I sell here at work operate at almost 150 psi incoming, with up to 4500 l/min of flow. I'm not used to this wimpy house stuff.

2psi coming out of the meter, then gets dropped to 1/4 psi for the appliances (there is a big regulator shortly after coming in the house). 1/4 psi = 7" of water to go with the above post.

Speedfreak · 12-11-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Momin, the guy texted me back finally, he's supposed to come over Saturday to give me a real quote.

Cool let me know how it goes. I may elect to have someone do it completely. Or maybe do the leg work and have him tie into the gas line etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Yes, you could tap in to the gas line there. The csst was really easy.

Cool. Yeah, looks simple enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

I'd google it a bit. I know water lines have that extra length acting as an anti-hammer relief. Older houses have that hammering sound sometimes, this cured that. I'm not sure if it's the same for gas, but it's worth checking into. I T'd mine off the copper line in the ceiling above my hot water heater, and ran more copper line out to the garage.

Those points are the online spots I'd feel comfortable touching myself. Don't want to cut and T in anywhere.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeremy1375

I installed a ventless heater a couple years ago. The supply coming into my house is 2 psi. The heater will list specifications for gas pressure. IIRC, the specs for input pressure on mine mine were 5-10.5" inches of water. I had to install a regulator and put together a diy manometer to set the pressure. The heater won't work right if the pressure is wrong.

The instructions ask for a shut off valve and I think I remember a regulator. I'll make a parts list based on their instructions before I do anything.

**Halon** · 12-15-2014

This is crazy, this is now the third guy who has set a time to come check out my garage setup who has gone MIA the day he was supposed to come over. No show, and no replies to calls/texts. This guy actually did it to me twice after he said oops for missing the first appointment and we rescheduled. This is nutty. Oh well.

turbotalon1g · 12-16-2014

I wouldn't waste any more time there then. that sucks.

AJ · 12-16-2014

Does anyone use Angie's list to find not only companies but also general handymen for something like this?

If not and want to I'd be happy to at least look for people to pass info along. Usually if they are in AL it's for a reason and they don't just no show.

**Halon** · 12-16-2014

Im going to ask the guy doing my theater room finishing if he will do it. If he doesnt, then yeah id totally love to give that a shot.

**scheides** · 12-17-2014

Sucky, I feel your pain. I hate working with contractors for this reason.

Mo, either of those spots look fine. Just make sure you have a shut-off valve somewhere upstream, treat it like water....turn on stove or a burner, go shut valve off, wait for burner to go out, be sure to shut it off. Always have a back-out plan once you open the pipe up--you don't want to be in a spot where you cannot run your furnace or anything.

tehehodi · 12-21-2014

http://www.mnsportbikeriders.com/for...howtopic=75597

**JET** · 12-22-2014

I was confused by the specs on that and it turns out that unit does not having a heating option, it is just A/C. The last 3 numbers of the product after the 42 tell you the kW of heat, this one is 000 which means no heat.