91 Galant VR4

[4seasons69]

awsome build!! hope to see this in person someday!!

[Pushit2.0]

It was not easy, but it should work.


There will be a 3.5" coupler where the blue tape is to connect the end tank out let to the throttle body.


Here a few shots with it out of the car, I used the same method as the runner entry on the SMIM to blend the end tank into the throttle body. Also I will be welding a short piece of 3.5" pipe to the inlet end tank and attach it to the turbo with a 3"-3.5" transition coupler.


Here is the bottom, just a little more welding to do, then make new mounts for it.


welded inside and out to make sure it holds up to the 50+ psi it should be running.

I was in Florida last week, but its getting closer to engine dyno time.

~John

[notsostockgalant]

looks like it was intense making that upper portion, but it turned out nice, good to see some more progress on this i was gettin antsy.

[turbotalon1g]

Awesome man.
I say leave the tape, maybe use a whole roll. Do something new.

[goodhart]

I say v-band the throttle body where the tape is!

[Pushit2.0]

No V-bands on the intake track for me. I finish welded and ported the inter cooler tonight. I welded the 3.5" in and outs on and finished the turbo to IC connection with a 3" to 3.5" transition coupler. I will be pulling the motor out to finish up the water to air mounts and the SMIM this week.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Keep up the good work.

[sleepydsm]

This car is awesome. I like V2.0 better.

[Pushit2.0]

I copper sprayed the head gasket and bolted the head down last night. And I am working on degreeing the cams. I plan to bring the motor up to work next week to work on engine dyno mounts and a bell housing.

~John

[goodhart]

In for dyno numbers!!

BTW where do you work that has an engine dyno?

[Pushit2.0]

Hi Tech Motorsport Inc.

[goodhart]

Ahh I see, very nice shop you guys have there!

[Pushit2.0]

I made a bracket to hold all 3 dial indicators in the right spot so degreeing will be a lot easier and quicker in the future.



Close up at #1 TDC and both valves closed



With the Crower cam gears there is no real 0 marks and after all the decking on the block and head this is close to 0, if I run out of adjustment I would need to skip the belt 1 tooth either way on the intake and exhaust.



As it sits right now I can retard the cams a lot, but I do not have hardly any room for advancing the cams, the intake cam is close to hitting the piston when its at 0 and I have the intake retarded 8 deg and the exhaust retarded 6 deg (crank degrees). I know how close the valves are to the piston so I will play around with the cam gears on the engine dyno and see what it likes. I am looking at making the lob seperation higher then it is on the cam card and higher then it was before to help make power up top. Before the lobe seperation was about 104 deg and with were the cams sit now that number is about 110 deg.

Here is a link to the cam card: http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...15-2&x=36&y=11

~John

[b00stcreep21]

It's sweet to see that you're actually workin on this guy again John. One word... Shotgun

[turbotalon1g]

2 words. frum roll, lol.
Keep it up I think that you might be the fastest GVR4 when you are done.

[Pushit2.0]

9.510@148mph is the mark. There is 4 seats going in the car and I do plan on beating it the time first trip to the track. And for the from roll I have a liter bike with mods I need to race this spring, that should need the good gas and nitrous to take that down.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Nice. I was gonna say something about 4 seats. maybe we have to have a closed track day and have all those seats filled while running a 9?

[niterydr]

Originally Posted by Pushit2.0

I made a bracket to hold all 3 dial indicators in the right spot so degreeing will be a lot easier and quicker in the future.



Close up at #1 TDC and both valves closed



With the Crower cam gears there is no real 0 marks and after all the decking on the block and head this is close to 0, if I run out of adjustment I would need to skip the belt 1 tooth either way on the intake and exhaust.



As it sits right now I can retard the cams a lot, but I do not have hardly any room for advancing the cams, the intake cam is close to hitting the piston when its at 0 and I have the intake retarded 8 deg and the exhaust retarded 6 deg (crank degrees). I know how close the valves are to the piston so I will play around with the cam gears on the engine dyno and see what it likes. I am looking at making the lob seperation higher then it is on the cam card and higher then it was before to help make power up top. Before the lobe seperation was about 104 deg and with were the cams sit now that number is about 110 deg.

Here is a link to the cam card: http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/...15-2&x=36&y=11

~John

Looks good John. So you are going for more than 110 lobe separation? I wouldn't advise over 114 as we might have serious idle issues with those high of a cam and the 1600's. We can play with injector angle time to try to bring it into check, but I'd say keep it wide enough to give room to mess with on the dyno to make power, without having to worry about fuel washing out the exhaust.

Let me know what Thursday works best for you homeslice. This will be epic.

[Pushit2.0]

You can run a 13.99 or something with passengers, so the plan would be to run with 4 people the first time down the track and see what it can do. I would like to have all the bugs worked out before the track day, at least as many as possible. As for the cams, the cam card says they should be at a 104 lob separation, that is about what they were before. I have them set to 110 right now I doubt it will need to be higher, but it can go lower if needed.

~John

[Shotgun!]

Originally Posted by b00stcreep21

It's sweet to see that you're actually workin on this guy again John. One word... Shotgun

It's my name, you know I'm down!