1991 talon 500 hp project

[CornFed2.4]

Almost half way there! Have fun in Cali.

[s1ngletracker]

the hard half comes next :P

[way2fastalon]

well today i pulled out the damaged piston as stated before in another thread. It went boom after getting here rod is fine bearings are even fine normal wear.

scoring is a lil excessive but will still run as is it didnt run long enough after the hole to make a mess in the oil galleys im still pulling the oil filter housing off and cleaning it out .

[way2fastalon]

well its been some time since i have posted last .. i have disappointing news


so today i found out i wasn't sold .020 wiseco pistons

after the fact i had the very rare unheard of crank-walk a week ago with loose main and tight rod bearings ??? and cant blame oil starvation i had 80 psi at 70 mph i had 15-25 at idle hot i ran good oil all the time 20w50 vr1 with a zinc additive

my block was bored over .020 and i set my ptw to .023 and run a loose ring gap back in 2010 when assembled left me with a very tight .03

now luckly i did that cause the engine ran like that for 2 years with standard size pistons i ordered .020 soo witch brings me to here now whose error mine or the place i bought it from not giving names at this time

make sense of all the issues i have had in the past with it from frying 11 turbos no matter where fed replaced 2 front covers and oil pumps ,oil filter housings,everything oil related still cooked turbos

[CornFed2.4]

How did you not know they weren't .20 over? I guess that would be your fault. I don't build engines but I remember when I bought stuff I double and triple checked with the shop when I picked up my parts. I think your shit out of luck. But on the bright side you might be able to build it up to the actual title of this thread. 500 awhp dsm! Good luck

[JET]

Engine builder should always double check all parts before putting them in the engine. That sucks though, did you measure the diameter at the top or bottom of the piston to determine their size?

[way2fastalon]

point is they are standard my purchase order says .020 over


picture is when i first got it all together what it looked like

[way2fastalon]

i would have checked if i had a good mic ... but people with those are hard to find and you cant use a cheap one so i took the shops word for it ...

[way2fastalon]

im still shooting for 500 but i keep getting raped

[viridionplague]

according to this article http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles 20w50 oil would be horrible for your engine. all you need is some pressure to create oil flow, but high pressure does not mean high flow and good lubrication.

not saying that oil starvation caused your problem but could have been a contributing factor based on this article.

[scheides]

20w50 is run by a lot of dsm/evo guys, I kinda doubt that would hurt anything.

You should be able to tell by the part number on the pistons (or the box) that they are standard or overbore-sized pistons. Always doublecheck your work.

That being said I've made some pretty big mistakes in my time so don't let it get you down! Just fix it and move on, that's all you can do!

[JET]

How do you know they are not .020 over? That is 3 human hairs per side, so we obviously can't make that assumption from a picture. Like Scheides said, the numbers from the top is going to be the best bet.

[evotuner]

that sucks man, good luck with gettin her back up and running

[way2fastalon]

well they are .20 over but what strikes me is they measure 84.4 at the top and 85.4 at the bottom of the piston over a 1 mm of difference ? map was telling me they taper at the top ?

[way2fastalon]

so my new build is going to be as follow's


2.0

Carrillo rods H beams
e85 pistons 10:5:1 ( still looking for the right ones ) that make me happy
might have to go custom pistons
stock mitsu crank
acl rod and main high stress coated

still looking for a set of used solid lifters pain to adjust but worth the power-band

and kelfords 272s nuff said
evo 8 valve springs i dont like bc because of the binding i keep reading about kigglys are $$$ not practical for dd

i have a slick hx40 custom built ... with super 60 pro compressor wheel ... love that thing. its in a bep housing want to see how much you can push one

small h1c exhaust wheel so 6/12 comes on like 3100 full spooled by 3500
spools amazing ! so far has it flowed 52 lbs a min at 27 psi on Link

going full auto im building the trans myself sick of failing syncro's so looking for a 2g awd auto trans 96-98

dont like the factor of drive-train loss. I know auto will be faster in the long run

and i have seen many new upgrades for autos from manual valve-body's and high stall locking torque converters

loving technology is catching up with the dsms ...


Fuel system now after trial and error i have found over building your fuel system is a better idea than not enough fuel from a tuners prospective

so the fuel system is 2 wallbo 255 hp feeding a aeromotive a1000 under the hood going to use -8 line looking for high impedance injectors digging the better spray pattern and the better atomization of fuel

some may say this is over kill but the car is getting a hx52 twin scroll in the future after maxing out the turbo system i have

[JET]

What FMIC and SMIM? Might as well wait on the external pump until later. Check out the Bosch 044 external too, I chose it over the A1000 that I was going to use originally. More flow and more reliable.

[93gtpeater]

Sounds like you have a window in your block in no time. Is this going to be a diesel motor?

[CornFed2.4]

I wouldnt switch to an auto till you get the 5 spd running great! No issues! Your whole build thread is issue after issue. I know its a dsm but making it an auto wont change reliability. Just my .02

Oh and are you shooting for 500? Or 800? You can do 500 at DB with a simple fuel setup.

[turbotalon1g]

How do u rape yourself?

[Tachyon]

Originally Posted by scheides

20w50 is run by a lot of dsm/evo guys, I kinda doubt that would hurt anything.

You should be able to tell by the part number on the pistons (or the box) that they are standard or overbore-sized pistons. Always doublecheck your work.

That being said I've made some pretty big mistakes in my time so don't let it get you down! Just fix it and move on, that's all you can do!

To echo this post:

Agreed with the oil weight. In a high stress / race environment use oil that best matches your most extreme operating temperature. Too thin and you'll probably get good at spinning rod bearings.

That being said, switching to a thicker oil caused sufficient oil pressure to blow smoke on my turbo (no balance shafts). I am porting my oil filter housing to compensate.

The best way to get a block machined is to have the pistons in hand then give them to the machinist along with your PWC. I've seen ' 020 over' off by enough to screw up my engine builds by having the block bored before I had the pistons.

The more mistakes you make, the more experience you gain. Rinse and repeat for best results over the course of a lifetime.