97 gsx build - Page 2

**goodhart** · 07-11-2013

Nice, getting work done

97gsexx · 07-12-2013

Last night I fixed all my boost leaks and was able to hold 25 psi no prob! She is all ready to go and I will be starting her for the first time tonight when I get off work. I hope these bm 1650's are easier to dial in than the old bosch style injectors. I am going to be taking it easy until I can get a tune from Shane because I don't want to f*** anything up considering I am fairly new to tuning.

97gsexx · 08-07-2013

Update:

Well I drove the car for a couple weeks and for the most part she ran pretty good. It leaks oil from where the dipstick tube sits in the block, oil return, and oil filter housing. Also, I was experiencing knock when ever going wot. Before I had time to look into it, the clutch went out (that's what I think anyway). I was leaving my house in 2nd gear then all of the sudden my car just revved and wouldn't accelerate. Also, when the car is off and in gear the wheels don't lock and it starts to roll so I have to pull the e-brake.

I got the car towed to my buddy's garage and started taking her apart. We both work until 8 so I haven't had much time to work on it. Axles were just rebuilt and were fully seated in the trans. Drained gear oil and t-case fluid and everything looked good. Axles, t-case are out so all I have to do is remove the mounts and drop the tranny. I will know for sure tonight what went wrong and what I need to buy in order to get her running again.

I am going to be going with a street disc and if the pp needs to be replaced I am going to go with a 2900. I am hoping the the trans and flywheel are in good shape. While I am waiting for parts to arrive I will be installing the full ss clutch line, black top cas (hopefully fixes the knock issue), dual gauge bezel and removing a pillar, oil pressure gauge in cigarette lighter location, rewire fuel pump, and switching to speed density. Also I just picked up a shaved vc that was powder coated black

Here are a few pics of the process:

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I will post some more pics up tomorrow of what I find when removing the trans. After I get her running I will be installing a 1g aluminum radiator with slim fans, delete a/c, and delete cruise control box and install non cruise cable.

**Tachyon** · 08-07-2013

I gather you never made it to the dyno before you issues?

mark4g63t · 08-07-2013

This happened less than 24hrs before the tune time.

97gsexx · 08-07-2013

Unfortunately not, I did trade a guy a spot for the 21st. Not sure if that is going to happen or not due to this unexpected surprise and the knock issue. Hopefully I figure out the drivetrain issue tonight. Before this happened the TOB was making a very loud squealing noise when the clutch was engaged. I am guessing that the hub ripped right out of the middle of the clutch disk. Perhaps the transmission was falling out, and as it became less aligned to the transmission, the more it destroyed the clutch disk(TOB noise).

97gsexx · 08-08-2013

As I expected, the center of the disc separated from the rest of it. Here are some pics of what i found when I removed the tranny:

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Does anyone know what pressure plate this is? It doesn't have and numbers on it or anything. I believe it is a 2600:

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There is a lot of build up inside then bell housing. Is this normal? I was just going to power wash it and remove as much as I can:

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Input shaft looks good, no damage from what I can see:

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Flywheel looks great as well. I am going to get it resurfaced just to be safe. I am going to buy a 2900 pp and street disc tonight. If all goes well, I should be able to make it to the cookout no prob!

**goodhart** · 08-08-2013

That kind of buildup is normal on high mileage dsm's. It's just dust from the organic clutch disks over the years. So you don't know what brand that is at all? I would guess it may be a XTD (eBay) pressure plate. I would guess by the falling apart of the disk like that, the disk is probably an XTD as well.

97gsexx · 08-08-2013

There isn't any writing or anything on the pp. And yeah I was thinking XTD as well. The pp is still in really good shape but I am going to play it safe and go with a 2900 so I don't have to worry about it.

**goodhart** · 08-08-2013

I was judging that by the red PP and the shape of the sticker that used to be on it. XTD puts a sticker just like that on their PP's.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 08-08-2013

I think a 2900 with a 6-puck might be overkill and could do damage.

97gsexx · 08-08-2013

I was planning on going with a 2900 pp and a street disc. I know a 2600 would probably be enough but I just don't want to deal with a slipping clutch. Plus I will probably upgrade to a bigger turbo next year.

**CornFed2.4** · 08-08-2013

Shane's right 2600 and a good puck style clutch will hold more than enough even if you upgrade to a larger turbo. At that point though I'd start looking into twin disc setups.

When Shane said "damage" I think he's referring to crank since the 2900 with put more force on everything.

97gsexx · 08-08-2013

I just decided that I want to go with a street disc rather than a puck style disc since it is mainly going to be a street car. I have just read good things about the 2900/street disc setup and that it holds over 550hp and people have had success with it in their dd. Apparently the new design (2900/3200) results in a softer clutch pedal than the 2600 pp after it's broken in. I am not knocking the 2600 at all, it's just my buddy mark has a 2600/street disc setup and his slips in 5th and he is only running 20 psi and I just don't want to deal with that. However I have read that people have ran 10's with the 2600/street disc setup so idk. I mean the 2900/street disc is only like $30 more so I would say it's worth it.

What do you guys think?

TkrPerformance · 08-08-2013

I have never had a problem with a 2600 and a street disk. You just need to make sure the clutch and peddle are set up right so it does not drag.

Did mark ever replace the p.p. with all the problems he was having with the tranny input seal leaking.

mark4g63t · 08-08-2013

I've always had slipping issues tho....

Mark- Yes it was all replaced. 2600 and street disc with resurfaced flywheel from proven force.

97gsexx · 08-12-2013

Got a good deal on a used 2900 pp with 1000 miles on it and just ordered a new act street disc with oem TOB. Everything should be here by the end of the week. While I am waiting i started relocating my gauges, installing autometer oil pressure gauge, install ss clutch line, and rewire fuel pump. My goal is to be driving it by the end of the weekend.

97gsexx · 08-26-2013

Well, unfortunately I didn't finish in time to make it to the cookout

. Last night I got the car all back together and ran into some issues. Firstly, whenever I turn the key the left turn signal always flashes no matter what. The right turn signal doesn't come on, however both flash when I turn the hazards on. Also, when I attempt to start the car it doesn't even attempt to turn over. While the tranny was out I installed a black top cas and 6 bolt swap harness and I am wondering if that is hooked up wrong causing the car not to start.

I work until 1 today and during that time I am going to look up all the possible fixes for the issues I am having since I am on a computer all day. Today I start school as well, and fortunately for me the first part of the program is electrical 1 so perhaps I can get some advice from my instructors.

Other than that, the clutch pedal feels nice and firm and everything else looks good. I installed a full ss clutch line while I was in there. Also I relocated my boost & wb gauge from the a pillar to in the dash and will be installing my autometer oil pressure gauge in the cigarette lighter spot in the nest couple days. While the car was down I had Mark repaint my hood gloss black and it looks awesome! Just want to be able to drive it.... Here a few pics I have on my phone and will get some better quality ones up shortly.

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New oem TOB:

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Aftermath of using 3 cans of brake cleaner to the bell hosuing:

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97gsexx · 08-26-2013

After doing some research I am almost positive that the end of my cas harness is plugged into the a/c connector and not the crank connector which would cause the car not to crank at all. Apparently both plugs are the same shape and look identical so I am hoping that's the problem.

**CornFed2.4** · 08-26-2013

Yeah that damn ac plug. If its plugged into that one that will definitely happen. Good way to tell is the length of the wires after they come out of the main harness/loom. The ac plug will be a lot longer since it needs to go low to plug in. Where the cas plug is shorter.

Hope that helps.