Well as usual something happened. lol The crankwalked block gave me a huge runaround. First we had issues getting a straight bore out of our Rottler.
I measured the centering fingers and came up with a .022" difference. This was our issues; or so we thought. After ordering two new sets from Rottler but before closing the shop we found a new set of fingers.
I tested them in/on a virgin cylinder and had the exact same results. I also misread the boring fixture's mic/incorrectly set the bit. So I cut the top of the cylinder .030" down at about 3.453"" instead of 3.353". Not a huge deal but not exactly something I will allow to happen again!
My instructor and I moved the block to the Kwik-way. I had the same results there. I had my instructor come over and he tried centering the boring bar. It bored alright but something was still off. What we found had me more than upset. Looking back at it I was more happy; I took it as a sign this block wasn't meant to be used. Take a look at the odd cutting characteristics at the top and bottom of the cylinder.
So I jumped on the "line" hone with the Evo.III block. After a flat file, precision block and some sand paper I brought down the girdle. I bolted it up and seen where I needed to take more. I spent the rest of the day as well as the next honing and spinning the block. I moved all of the "caps" to within...I'd say .0003"-.0004" of each other. This is at the most as far as variation goes.
I had the mic set to the middle of the spec so 2.402". This left me with .0004" on each side to vary. None of the caps were over .0002"..if any were even at .0002". lol
Anyway, thanks for reading!
Threaded Mode