Tool to disconnect ball joints?

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

I have a tool that is sortof the right design, but its a bit too 'thick' to fit in between the axle and ball joint, if that makes sense.

Does anyone have the right tool? Perhaps the actual mitsubishi one? Or some other trick on how to free these things? The last time I had to do this, I actually took the LCA and knuckle off the car, and cut the joint, and then pounded it out. Then I obviously had to replace it. That was a pain, I really don't want to have to do that again.

This is on a different car, another couple ball joints that probably haven't been disconnected in a long time, if ever.

Any help is appreciated!

4g63tcrazy · 03-17-2010

You could rent the tool at autozone. Maybe they have a different size one.

twack · 03-17-2010

Big hammer has always worked after a little pb soak.

Gravy · 03-17-2010

Just got done doing mine, BFH and good aim helps.

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

um, I really don't see how you could hit the ball joint stud on the DSM with a hammer. Its physicall impossible. Do you hit the side of the knuckle or something? I suppose I could try that along with torch/pb blaster

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4g63tcrazy

You could rent the tool at autozone. Maybe they have a different size one.

doubtful. I'm guessing only the mitsu OEM one will work perfectly. There is just such little clearance.

blackrosenova400 · 03-17-2010

The right tool is called a pickle fork.

santa · 03-17-2010

Do you have a 1g or 2g?

way2fastalon · 03-17-2010

if your trying to get a ball joint loose 2 ways i use with out a pickle fork

1. is using long pry bar and a chain rap the chain around the lcr secure it so there's a small loop and stick the bar in the loop and stand on/ jump on it car must be on jack stands and a good height in the air be sure to give a few taps on the sides of the balljoint before you start jumping

2. is turn the wheel to the right and lock the wheel there and jack up on the rotar put a block between the 2 make sure its not touching the control arm the rotar only have a few lugs tight on the rotar and start jacking up slowly to load the spring jack up enough to where the car starts to come off the stand let it down about 1/4 way from that point and start hammering on the lcr onthe side of ball joint hard then start hitting on the arm again and it should pop if it dont get a propane touch and heat it a lil bit and keep going it will pop

i have done this numerous times with stubborn balljoint's yeah it might not be the right way but it dose infact work i have worked at a few shops that have done these methods if you would like help ill come and help you

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

1g, sorry

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackrosenova400

The right tool is called a pickle fork.

nooooo way. Worst tool evar.

TkrPerformance · 03-17-2010

pickle forks destroy the boots on them.

I just use my bfh 5lb brass hammer and give the control arm a few good hits and the always gets them loose

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

Alright, I will give that a try, maybe along with some PB blaster and torching.

1QUICK4 · 03-17-2010

Yes, BFH is the best way to go.

jrohner · 03-17-2010

A few solid hits with a big hammer will do pretty much every time. Pickle forks if absolutely necessary for some reason, as they destroy the boots.

santa · 03-17-2010

Like most of the people above said. Get a 5lbs hammer and beat on the side of the knuckle until it pops loose. Its a tapper fit type of joint. So you will have to hit it until it comes loose. You should almost never "need" a torch.

s1ngletracker · 03-17-2010

yeah, I believe i did actually try that on my talon, but it was seriously seized... theres no way even a BFH would have worked. Hoping this one is a bit easier.

s1ngletracker · 03-21-2010

I got one ball joint free... and it wasn't easy. I started trying to hit it with a hammer... but I didn't know where to hit and I dont have a brass hammer to go easy on the suspension pieces. I also didn't feel this would do much for an extremely old, stuck joint.

So I went back to my original plan, except I torched it for about 10 minutes first. I had the ball joint tool all the way tightened down, no dice. As I was beginning loosening it, THEN the ball joint violently popped apart. I was ecstatic. Haven't tried the other side yet, but i'm hoping it works out about the same. We'll see!