Project AutoX domination!

MustGoFaster · 11-01-2008

So I have a few desires to make my car a bit more competitive at AutoX. I hope to get these done over the winter, but as with everyone here, I don't have a money tree in my back yard. I am planning to run the Street Modified class next year, instead of the Street Tire Index.

1. Fix the brakes! I have noticed between driving a few cars that my breaks are not very effective. I have EBC yellow pads which are supposed to be are more of a race/high temp pad. I hope to replace these with Carbotech AX6 pads, and install my SS lines.
I went with Porterfield R4S pads instead. Need to install.

2. Front end work. I need new PS rack bellows, tie rod ends and a passenger side outer axle boot. Maybe new lower ball joints as well, I have an odd click when transitioning form braking to accelerating that I haven't been able to pinpoint yet.

3. Sticky tires! I have a used set of 275/40/17 Kumho V710's. Planing to get 17x10 FN01R-C's. This is where not having that money tree kind of hurts... Tires Check 17x10 Enkei RPF1's check

4. Corner weighted and a full alignment. I've been doing my own alignments so far, I would like to get a real one done by the local pro. Biggest reason I haven't done it already is goal #2.

5. More power! I want to do a few mods. Individual intake pipes and eliminating the stock (un-used) MAS are #1. #2 is getting an intake manifold from an NA 6G72 hooked up and functioning with the AEM. #3 is getting the giant FMIC I have put on. I would like to improve the low end TQ a bit, it just needs a little more response at lower RPM and I think it would be perfect. I also need to get a working IAC so it will idle nice. Oh, and a 3" catback as well.
K&N filter, NA manifold, Check!

6. Gauges. Knowing something other than coolant temp would be nice. I have them already, need to install. In progress

This list will probably get a bit longer before it gets shorter, but I need to get it started.

And of course I will continue working on the MOST IMPORTANT mod there is, the driver mod. I have aways to go, but have made leaps and bounds in my first season of auto X. I feel my next big steps are learning left foot braking, developing more consistency, and developing my ability to apply what input instructors have for me.

turbotalon1g · 11-01-2008

Good luck, they seem like realistic goals of course as long as the money thing comes thru in some parts.

Matt D. · 11-01-2008

Awesome, Ryan! I was thinking about starting a thread like this myself, but have to get a few things in order first. Can't wait to see how your car looks with some fat slicks on it.

niterydr · 11-01-2008

Retuning? Success!

**Kracka** · 11-01-2008

You suck, stay out of SM!

MustGoFaster · 11-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

You suck, stay out of SM!

Well, if you help me find a money tree I'll just go to XP.

**scheides** · 11-02-2008

Awesome man, keep us updated!

FattyBoomBatty · 11-02-2008

Got any oil control mods in the works? I had a baffle installed in my pan because quests have a tendency to starve in the pickup location when whipping shitties/cornering hard. I've spun bearings at an autox before, plus another time when doing doughnuts, lol.

MustGoFaster · 11-02-2008

I have a modded oil pan with extra capacity and a trap door. But it's probably not much of an issue until I get even bigger tires. Very few people have reported oil starving, and the person that had the issue ( and made the pan I have) had 315 wide race slicks, and aerodynamic modifications. Pulled some pretty good G's to cause problems.

FattyBoomBatty · 11-02-2008

Ahh. Have you ever spun the back out under power? That can cause high g's momentarily, perhaps enough to be concerned?

MustGoFaster · 11-02-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Ahh. Have you ever spun the back out under power? That can cause high g's momentarily, perhaps enough to be concerned?

Not like whipping a shitty or anything, but I have gotten it to power on over steer.

SnoEclipse · 11-02-2008

An easy way to increase oil capacity is to go with a remote oil filter setup. Depending on the length of the hoses and size of filter you go with, you could add up to 2 quarts capacity without messing with the oil pan. Plus you're getting the oil filter away from the bottom of the engine where it's vulnerable to road debris.

I've seen people remote their oil filter(s) into the grille and work up a slide on heat sink/fins that slips on over the oil filter(s). A little extra cooling is always nice.

Yes, oil filter(s). Once you find a good mounting location, you can go with one or two oil filters.

FattyBoomBatty · 11-02-2008

Hehe, nice picture.

MustGoFaster · 11-02-2008

I like it, I'm the one that turned it into the poster deal as well. Gotta give props to the guys that take them though. There was a red Quest at the autoX as well, anybody you know?

niterydr · 11-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

I like it, I'm the one that turned it into the poster deal as well. Gotta give props to the guys that take them though. There was a red Quest at the autoX as well, anybody you know?

Ryan, I love the picture man!

123abc · 11-03-2008

Whats the differences in the N/a manifold vs. the turbo verson?

MustGoFaster · 11-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by 123abc

Whats the differences in the N/a manifold vs. the turbo verson?

The turbo version is a single runner length manifold. The NA manifold has a dual runner length that it switches between with a DC motor.

The NA manifold "short runners" are about as long as the TT runners. The long runners are a good 6-8" longer. They are intended to boost TQ at low RPM (below 3K). This should boost TQ with the pulse tuning as well as aid in spool up at low RPM.

I'm not sure how big of a difference it's really going to make, but with the big split on 1st and 2nd gear, there have been a few corners where I was under 3K, but didn't want to shift down and back up. Shifting form 1st at 7K to 2nd brings the RPM down to 4K. Not bad, but drop a little speed of that and the revs get low pretty quick. My 2nd gear is between 2and and 3rd for a DSM or EVO. 80 MPH at 7200rpm. I think the biggest gains I'm going to get as far as low end response is going to be left foot braking, having the throttle open just that little bit seems to help a ton coming out of corners the couple times I've practiced so far.

Matt D. · 11-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by niterydr

Ryan, I love the picture man!

It was quite the sight to behold. Glad someone got it on camera. People already comment about how powerful his car is, I can't imagine what it'll look like once all that power gets to the ground.

niterydr · 11-03-2008

Green car powerful? HMM...
Kidding ryan, glad to see it is all coming together.

123abc · 11-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

The turbo version is a single runner length manifold. The NA manifold has a dual runner length that it switches between with a DC motor.

The NA manifold "short runners" are about as long as the TT runners. The long runners are a good 6-8" longer. They are intended to boost TQ at low RPM (below 3K). This should boost TQ with the pulse tuning as well as aid in spool up at low RPM.

I'm not sure how big of a difference it's really going to make, but with the big split on 1st and 2nd gear, there have been a few corners where I was under 3K, but didn't want to shift down and back up. Shifting form 1st at 7K to 2nd brings the RPM down to 4K. Not bad, but drop a little speed of that and the revs get low pretty quick. My 2nd gear is between 2and and 3rd for a DSM or EVO. 80 MPH at 7200rpm. I think the biggest gains I'm going to get as far as low end response is going to be left foot braking, having the throttle open just that little bit seems to help a ton coming out of corners the couple times I've practiced so far.

Hopefully that will do something for ya. What are you running for turbos?