Head Games: pushing coolant and then...

[craig]

if i didn't just get home I'd come help you

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

hmm, I just started cooking my dinner, abd by the time I get done, it'll probably be too late. Working early in the morning sucks ass...

[scheides]

Thanks for the offers guys! I actually made a lot of progress on my own last night:
-stopped by MAP and picked up my Kelford 272's and GSC springs *TWO* days early!
-removed strut tower bar
-unhooked all catch can/kracka vent plumbing
-unhooked/untangled all wiring
-unbolted fuel rail/injectors
-removed spark plugs
-drained coolant
-set TDC
-valvecover off
-broke cam gear bolts loose
-zip tied tbelt to gears and strung it up to my old hood prop
-unhooked all coolant lines
-unhooked upper IC pipe and got everything else out of the way

So ya, ready to unbolt cams and headstud bolts and get that mutha off of there! I got home late from work (about 7pm, don't say that's not 'that' late cause I worked a 17 hour 'shift' on the day before!) so I did not get it all the way off. Called it quits around 10pm, just too much other stuff going on to keep going.



Also, I'm getting a few points of advice:
-Leave headstuds in, clean with brake cleaner and shop towels till its so clean I can eat off of it.
-Remove headstuds, use fine sand paper to *lightly* clean the surface of the block, then brake cleaner and shop towels till its clean.

Any votes yay/nay the sandpaper? I imagine it's only necessary if there's a lot of gunk on the block, and even then it should be light light lightly used.

[crazy_skier]

I would say use a shop vac before wiping with a towel and brake cleaner to get the majority of the metal dust flakes off. That's the last thing you want in this engine! and good progress. now with having zip tied the timing belt to the cam gears are you hoping to hot have to redo the alignment or whats up with that?

[scheides]

Originally Posted by crazy_skier

I would say use a shop vac before wiping with a towel and brake cleaner to get the majority of the metal dust flakes off. That's the last thing you want in this engine! and good progress. now with having zip tied the timing belt to the cam gears are you hoping to hot have to redo the alignment or whats up with that?

unbolt cam gears from cams, then pull head and leave all other timing stuff untouched. I just did the timing belt twice, I don't really want to do it a third time.

[FattyBoomBatty]

If you can get all the old gasket stuff off the block without sandpaper or razor blades or what have you, then do that. You could even maybe use adhesive remover soaked into a rag/towel to loosen up left over gasket stuff, that last part was a guess, I've never done it before, but hey, might work. I have used a razor though, and you just have to be careful.

[JET]

It is an iron block, scrape away with a razor blade. Carb cleaner works good for removing copper spray.

[MustGoFaster]

Is it possible to put a MIVEC head on an Evo8? I know they wouldn't have the wiring or anything, just wondering if the block is the same or if there are any extra oil passages added. Crank pickups the same? Just a thought...

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Good progress Scheides, I should be able to come help tomorrow night if you're gonna be working on it

[mdost03]

I would just take the timing belt and gears off, make it a lot easier IMO to get everything put back together and get yourself a little more room to work. You aren't that much away from taking it completely off.

[4g63tcrazy]

When I did mine I used carb cleaner and scotch brite pads. They worked great.

[scheides]

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

Is it possible to put a MIVEC head on an Evo8? I know they wouldn't have the wiring or anything, just wondering if the block is the same or if there are any extra oil passages added. Crank pickups the same? Just a thought...

I think its possible, there might be one extra cooling passage that is bigger on the IX block though.

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

Good progress Scheides, I should be able to come help tomorrow night if you're gonna be working on it

Kewl, come over around 7, we'll be rockin.

Originally Posted by totaleclipse_05

I would just take the timing belt and gears off, make it a lot easier IMO to get everything put back together and get yourself a little more room to work. You aren't that much away from taking it completely off.

Like I said, just got done doing this twice, not pumped about doing it again. If I have to, I will.

[scheides]

The new goodies! Kelford 272 cams and GSC 5039 Beehive springs






And, here's our problem spot:




Head looks good! Taking it in for a cleaning and checkup anyways


And bottom end looks happy too. I could not have imagined how much cleaning is needed on the top of the block though...gonna take a while


Cyl walls look happy for putting down decent power for 30-40k HARD miles:

Head goes to Gosh tomorrow...

[Super Bleeder!!]

cleaning the block surface suuuuuuuuuuuuucks

[scheides]

For sure dude, I had no idea it was gonna be such a biotch

[MustGoFaster]

Composite gaskets are easier to clean up after, MLS's are a bitch.

[Goat Blower]

Yeah, I'd take out the headstuds and the two guides, clean up the surface, then put them back in before dropping the head back on. I can't believe how much the heads are similar to the 1G on the combustion side. I thought they'd be totally different for some reason.

[Kracka]

We did end up taking the headstuds out to make things easier.

[mdost03]

Originally Posted by MustGoFaster

Composite gaskets are easier to clean up after, MLS's are a bitch.

I thought it was the other way around? At least in my cases it has been composites are bitches to clean up. My MLS on my talon was a piece of cake to clean.

Originally Posted by Kracka

We did end up taking the headstuds out to make things easier.

Was gonna say you probably should to make life easy haha. It's not like it's tough to take them out anyways.

[A//// Guy]

Just hose it down and throw it back together. haha jk

Good luck on the install dude!