Continuing Oil Squirter Problem

joem · 10-23-2004

http://www.dsmstyle.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=5236
Why did this happen? My old motor did the same thing remember Mike
the first block that was in my talon.
Plus will it brake the new one he puts in.
joe

Raptor · 10-23-2004

Not sure why this one broke. He mentioned the old squirter was very loose, it may have worked it's way over and been knocked off somehow. It didn't show obvious signs of impact from what I saw, but that would be my guess. Beyond that, maybe someone else has other theories they would contribute.

Joe, your definately was knocked off, it had more obvious damage. These things are only torqued at 25 ft/lbs so it wouldn't take that much to have one end up working it's way loose. I use a very small amount (so it can't end up in the valve) of thread lock on them to help prevent that from happening as well as new crush washers. Never had one come loose on any I have built.

**scheides** · 10-23-2004

Quick update: put in a new squirter, washers, and a drop of threadlock like mike said, and it seems to run fine, for now. No road time yet, but I think this'll do the trick, at least for a while.

-scheides

ps--special thanks to QPR for the great info & support!

Raptor · 10-23-2004

Your welcome Chris, glad it worked out

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 10-23-2004

damn mike, how many more lives can you save in 24 hours?? lol

**scheides** · 10-24-2004

Well, got everything back together today, took it for a spin, seems to behave just as though nothing happened. Idles normally, revs fine, boosts fine, makes plenty of power.

In short...YEA! I'll post to this thread if anything comes up. This'll hopefully get me in gear to build a motor...anyone have a 4gcs block lying around?

Thanks again to QPR, who helped me narrowly avoid spending thousands of dollars with them...wait, what kind of company is this, anyways?

-scheides
'94 TSi AWD

Raptor · 10-25-2004

One of two things Chris, either we are extremely ethical or not all that bright, could be both. :bounce:

Enes · 10-25-2004

i say its more like AND..

-e

acidrumz · 11-13-2004

hey, i think i may know why your oil squirtor or anyone's oil squitor (is that miss-spelled?) breaks or keeps on breaking on replacements.

well the last time i overhauled two 4g63s motor, i found both of the motors had that problem. but upon careful checking and measurements, i laid a straight metal ruler across all the pistons top on the block. to a surprise i found that one of the pistons, (piston 1 and 4 or 2 and 3) when cranked, one of the piston did not lined up tdc to the top of the block. and from the broken squirtor, that piston was low. i believe it was shorter like 1/8th of a inch. maybe even less like 1/16th of a inch. can't remember which. but it is slightly small, but the nake eye can notice it.

that is serious problem. the lead cause i think would be in the connecting rod bearings and even the mains. and worst the crank journals.

that was found on both motors. i didn't finish rebuilting the motor because the owner decided to get another used motor.

but thats my input on that. hopes that helps.
good luck.

LightningGSX · 11-13-2004

So you're saying the piston was physically contacting the squirter?

acidrumz · 11-16-2004

my guess is somehow the bottom of the piston made contact with the squirters.
that is the only rotating/moving part that is closest to the squirters.

i didn't get to do a full inspection except for what i've mention above.

later.

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightningGSX

So you're saying the piston was physically contacting the squirter?

**Goat Blower** · 11-13-2004

Bearings aren't 1/8" thick, so it's not those. Sounds like a bent rod to me.

Raptor · 11-14-2004

I would have to say bent rod as well to get that much of a difference. We just worked on a car with the #1 rod bearing pretty much completely gone and it still had the squirter in place. I can't imagine a rod bearing being in worse condition and the rod still on the crank like this one was.

joem · 11-14-2004

Mine hit it. Broke it right off.
joe

**scheides** · 11-16-2004

Yea, mine hit it as well. Broken clean off. Mine happened about 5-10 seconds after starting the car, so I wonder what that could have to do with it. When did yours brake off Joe? I wonder what would've happened if it happened at a cruise. Can you say kabluie!?

One time I was riding my FZR through the tunnels on 94 downtown. I was in a tuck at about 85 and one of the pieces that holds you bolt the valvecover to decided to break off and go dancing with my lifters, valves, and cam. Again, can you say Kabluie!? I coasted all the way to the hwy 55 exit.

-scheides

joem · 11-16-2004

Mine was broke when i bought the car. It had blowen the timing belt right before that
then i bought it as a shell basically.
joe

**scheides** · 11-16-2004

The crank also gets very close; the squirter I replaced my broken one with from was from a 6bolt, and it was shaped ever-so-slightly different from the other ones. I didn't notice it until I put it in and rotated the crank...part of it *ever* so slightly scraped against it, and when it was past, it left some scrape marks on it. I carefully bent it into the right shape, and re-installed.

PS prolly 1000 miles or so since this happened, and no problems yet!

**Goat Blower** · 11-16-2004

They break all the time, as long as they don't damage anything on the way out, they just sit on the bottom of your oil pan and lower your oil pressure a bit.

Pushit2.0 · 11-17-2004

The part that breaks off is only brazed to the banjo fitting, so to much heat, vibration, and/or contact from the crank would cause it to fall off easy enough. And unless the bolt falls out it will not lower your oil pressure, the check valve is in the bolt itself.

~John

Raptor · 11-17-2004

I agree with john except that brazing and welding are two different things

also there are 2 o's in "too" when expressing excessive quantity.