05-25-2004
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#1
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 76
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Ok I want to get my basket case back together and I want some suggestions on what I should replace when I'm in there replacing the timing belt, my car only has 60000 miles on it, And is there any sites on here that could guide me throught the steps so I don't forget anything, I've never dealt with DOHC gears yet, but I know I could handle it. Thanks DSMStyle
Nick
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05-25-2004
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#2
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aka Goodbye
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At a minimum I'd replace the t-belt, balance shaft belt water pump and tensioner. While you're in there, check the idler pulley and tensioner pulley for any play, they should spin smoothly with no slop. Also check the crank sensor for damage just in case. There's alot of info out there on doing this. Start with www.vfaq.com.
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2009 Corvette Z51-SOLD
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX-SOLD
2013 BMW Z4-Current summer hooptie
2017 GMC Yukon-Current winter hooptie
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05-25-2004
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#3
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Guest
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I am gonna have to agree with Goat Blower. While you are there take the time to replace the tensioner and balance shafts. It also always good to double check the simple stuff like motor mounts as you are peaking into the bay. Good luck and make sure to post and tell us how it went.
-Tim
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05-25-2004
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#4
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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i did the timing belt myself.. well honestly.. i'm no mechanic... i tought it would be good experience.. well in whole truth. it was.. but guess what else hapend? i over tightened the belt and now it needs replacing again 15k miles later.. and this time i'm buying everything new again...
it sux.. but i'll just make the 7 bolt last this year hopefully.. but for that i'll have to let someone else do the timing belt this time
-E
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05-26-2004
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#5
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Pewp Champion
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blaine
Drives: Teh Bean
Posts: 12,309
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how can you tell if its over tightened?
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05-26-2004
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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the belt shows excessive wear on the side as well as you can see and feel the teeth come thru etc etc.
-E
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05-26-2004
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#7
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Pewp Champion
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blaine
Drives: Teh Bean
Posts: 12,309
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how about when you're doing the actual install. Is there a way to check if it's at the correct tension before you see it wearing and realise it was too tight?
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05-26-2004
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#9
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Pewp Champion
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blaine
Drives: Teh Bean
Posts: 12,309
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ya i know how to check all that, but the tension im not sure of. I know to take out the tensioner, then use a vice to press it and alling the pin holes. But I guess that's where i forget what goes on after that. My memory is bad sometimes. It's one of those things I've been told so many times, yet I always forget.
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05-26-2004
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#10
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Pewp Champion
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Blaine
Drives: Teh Bean
Posts: 12,309
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ok, my memory kicked back in. In case anyone is like me and forgets, here's the way I was taught to setup and check the correct tension...
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner and compress it with vice grips
-When compressing, alling the holes in the tensioner
-Once holes are alligned, stick a small allen wrench through all 3 holes.
-Reinstall the hydraulic tensioner
-Once the t-belt is installed and all timing marks are correct, make sure the bolt on the tensioner pulley is loose.
-Pry on the tensioner pulley to tighten the belt, then tighten the bolt in the center of the pulley.
-If the tension is set correct, you should be able to slide the allen wrench out fairly easily, and slide it back in through all 3 holes fairly easily
-If the allen wrench does not slide in and out easily, then you have it too tight or too loose.
That's how I was taught, if anyone see's something wrong with that process then please chime because if i'm doing it wrong, I sure would like ti know.
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05-26-2004
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#11
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back in the saddle again
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all of you are about 90% right.
Yes you remove the tensioner, 'pin it' and replace it, meanwhile you have the 'screw' holding down the tensioner pully.
Align timing marks.
Now is where a speciality tool comes in. While putting so many inch/lbs of torque of tension on the belt, tighten the tensioner pully. This is the only correct way to apply proper tension to the timing belt. Sure other ways are possible, and probably work, but going by 'the book' is the best bet. Now make sure everything is aligned again. Remove 'screw' then crank over motor until all the marks align back up again. Let it sit for 15 minutes, crank over again until they align and then check the 'tensioner gap'
I'd spit off the specs, but its 4am and I just got back from duluth, so go look them up  !
atleast, thats how I do t-belts.
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My street car runs low 11's and my race car's personal best is a mid 11....
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