Another thing to wire up..

Swifty1638 · 07-16-2005

I recovered, vacuumed, and recharged my a/c today. It recovered 1.65 lbs of frigerant, but on a 2 lb system, that wasn't too much lost..atleast it should still work. Well, we tested it, cause the compressor no longer turns on..for some reason the pressure switch get's power, but the wire going into the compressor doesnt. Why is this? How can I find the leak, or can I jsut re-wire it, from the battery, through a fuse, then to a switch, before I run it power straight to the compressor? What size wire should I use, and will one of those switches with the flip covers work (it's all i have right now). The switch says r13-28a (model number perhaps?) with 15a-125vac, and 10a-250vac..what's that mean? does this switch go with the line from the battery going into it, and then the wire going from it to the compressor, since it only has 2 tabs to solder to. I just ask cause I am unfamiliar with this switch..I usually use the switches with a ground in it, 12v, and acc.

-A. Swift

**JET** · 07-16-2005

The last numbers should mean 15 amps at 125 volts AC and 10 amps at 250 volts AC, but that doesn't make any sense since it is a DC system.

Swifty1638 · 07-16-2005

dunno..that's what the switch says..this is one of those flip-cover switches, with the carbon fiber flip-top to it :-/ Anyway, is it safe to run the compressor off of a switch? What wire should I use..?

-A. Swift

Swifty1638 · 07-17-2005

...anyone..?

-A. Swift

unreal808 · 07-17-2005

I would not, just run a wire to the compressor, other than to test the compressor. Bypassing the safety switches will result in a junk compressor, If you are lucky the compressor will just stop working, but it could lock up or pop the safety valve on the compressor. The safety valve on the compressor I think pops off at 300 psi or more not sure.

unreal808 · 07-17-2005

For leaks on a DSM, one spot that likes to leak on older cars, is the sides of the condenser (by the radiator) The condenser is made of aluminum with steel on the sides. The aluminum and steel over time start to form some electrolysis /corrosion and than start to eat the aluminum along the sides. The other spot that I see is sometimes on R12 systems, is the Schrader valve on the drivers side by the fender looses the o-ring under the cap. The molding of the cap has a nub that hit’s the valve when its on tight with out the o-ring.

Swifty1638 · 07-17-2005

ok, well, how then can I find what's wrong with the wires? I checked witha test light to see if the compressor is getting power. The compressor is not. But, the pressure switch is, which tells me that it's not a bad fuse, or anything like that...

-A. Swift

Swifty1638 · 07-17-2005

I plan on doing this all today, if possible...

-A. Swift

Swifty1638 · 07-17-2005

If I am not allowed to run a switch off of the compressor and power, then how can I trace the whole wireing to figure out what the issue is? Also, what are common issues with this? Can't I just run a switch, and when the air get's cold, then shut it off, till it starts to get warm, and then start it up again? how long do normal compressors run, before they shut off automatically?

-A. Swift

unreal808 · 07-17-2005

Have you tryed a new presser switch?

Swifty1638 · 07-17-2005

no, but the pressure switch has power...the compressor wire doesnt...

-A. Swift