The GVR4 build

[gvr4]

I spun a rod bearing in my 1992 Galant VR-4 a while ago, and after staring at it sitting in the driveway all summer, its about time to put it back together.

Nothing crazy, in fact, if you ask MAP, less than 650 whp isn't worth building! This is primarily my DD, but I've seen some local rally cross videos, and that looks like a blast, so any extras that go into this build will be to the effect of making it more fun to play in the dirt.

I don't know anything about DSM's, so feel free to tell me I'm doing it wrong as this thread progresses. And even better, give me some tips before I waste my money!

Plans so far:
machined block by John Gosh
Stock head with revised lifters from John Gosh
DSM Graveyard Frankenstein rotating assembly with EVO 9 pistons to up the compression a bit. On order
ARP Head studs and MLS gasket
Jacks economy transmission rebuild. On order.
Current eBay big 16g
Existing ACT 2600 clutch
Current 3" exhaust from turbo back

Wanted to buy: DSMLink v3 lite


Here are my toys.



And here's what killed the Galant.

[tehehodi]

Looks like it'll be fun build when finished.

I have a minty 14b with a j pipe if your interested?

[gvr4]

I have a few of the big chunks to buy first before I worry about the turbo, but I'll keep it in mind. I still have my eBay 16g that spools at 5500 if all else fails.

[CornFed2.4]

Sounds like an expensive build for a DD. Stock 6 bolt would save ya a ton of money and time. Also what's wrong with the trans? Just do a stock rebuild.

[gvr4]

Pocket change. Somehow my DD's always end up snowballing. This will see some track time too.

I had been driving it without first gear for a few months due to bad synchros. You mean a stock rebuild on the Trans? Is there anything else I can do with it to make it shift better or otherwise improve it. Is the 4-spider diff just for extra strength? If so, I don't need that.

[123abc]

Originally Posted by gvr4

Pocket change. Somehow my DD's always end up snowballing. This will see some track time too.

I had been driving it without first gear for a few months due to bad synchros. You mean a stock rebuild on the Trans? Is there anything else I can do with it to make it shift better or otherwise improve it. Is the 4-spider diff just for extra strength? If so, I don't need that.

Just keep buying used/stock transmissions and if you break one, swap it. A lot easier than forking over 1k every time it breaks on a 16g street car... Also, forget the tubular manifold, forget the ricer BOV, stock stock stock.

FWIW, I sheared teeth off second gear before I hurt my stock center diff. Looks like a nice project though, gotta keep them Gaylants alive!

[gvr4]

Parts are already on the way. I got double synchro 2nd and a torrington bearing on the center diff. It will be around $200 to refresh this transmission after another 150,000 miles of abuse.

Engine parts are on order too. DSM graveyard signed for receipt of my rotating assembly last friday, and when I called them today, they couldn't find it...


Any recommendations on a head rebuilder? Or machine shops for my block? I wanna compare prices before I pay MAP $500 to machine my block and $700 to rebuild my head!

[EclipseGST]

John Gosh!

[gvr4]

Originally Posted by EclipseGST

John Gosh!

Thanks! I'll give him a call tomorrow.

[gvr4]

DSM graveyard found my core! They said theyre pretty busy lately, so estimated ship date is 2 weeks out.

Jacks transmission says my Trans parts will ship by the beginning of next week.


Time to get busy cleaning/media blasting parts!

I called John Gosh, and while his prices are comparable to MAP, he does give you the option of not doing some of the unnecessary steps (decking if it's flat, and line boring if they're still straight). I think I'll be taking my block and head to him when I get my rotating assembly back

[turbotalon1g]

Let me know when you are ready for a turbo, I have that billet 16G aka MAP EF1 that I'm hoping to run a 10.99 on
I'd really love to see it on a 5 spd car.

[Constant_Project21]

I wish I could find a decent, beater GVR4 for winter. I love seeing clean built ones though! Id say ditch that MAFT idea though. Honestly ecmlink is a great tuning solution and you can get a great tune to keep that new motor safe. I never had link in my cars, and it would have saved a few of my cars from death. I have seen it work its magic over and over on our dyno, can't really argue with its versatility for the price. Tuning my mustang with the 5-OH in it, is a nightmare, I wish I had link for my car haha. HP tuners will be more friendly down the road. /my dsmlink rant.

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Let me know when you are ready for a turbo, I have that billet 16G aka MAP EF1 that I'm hoping to run a 10.99 on
I'd really love to see it on a 5 spd car.

Alex is putting one on my old maroon 1ga that's a 5 speed, built motor. Just got to get him to race the damn thing. Haha.

[gvr4]

Originally Posted by Constant_Project21

I wish I could find a decent, beater GVR4 for winter. I love seeing clean built ones though! Id say ditch that MAFT idea though. Honestly ecmlink is a great tuning solution and you can get a great tune to keep that new motor safe. I never had link in my cars, and it would have saved a few of my cars from death. I have seen it work its magic over and over on our dyno, can't really argue with its versatility for the price. Tuning my mustang with the 5-OH in it, is a nightmare, I wish I had link for my car haha. HP tuners will be more friendly down the road. /my dsmlink rant.

I guess I don't quite know what all my options are as far as tuning goes. Once it goes back together, I don't expect the setup will change much, since the TA is a bigger money pit. If the setup doesn't change, I don't need the ability to tune it myself. What do I gotta do to have MAP be able to tune it once and be done with it?

[turbotalon1g]

DSMlink all the way with these cars, anything else is a waste unless its a race car and there are a few making 900+ with link anyway.

[gvr4]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

DSMlink all the way with these cars, anything else is a waste unless its a race car and there are a few making 900+ with link anyway.

Quit trying to make me spend more money on this pile! Lol, but I am more about "bang for the buck" than "cheap", so if nothing less than link will work...


What do you mean by looking you up when I need a turbo? gonna give me that EF1??

A couple days ago I finally put 2 and 2 together, and drew a conclusion that really shows how much of a newb I am about turbohs. When I was tearing the GVR4 apart, I noticed the turbo to manifold bolts were loose, I thought WTF, and made a mental note to make sure I torqued them properly on reassembly, and re-torqued them during break in. Then I was thinking about how nice my eBay 16g still looked, and wondering why the hell it would be soooo damn slow to spool....... Ya don't think a giant pre-turbo exhaust leak would have anything to do with that do ya? Where's that damn facepalm emoticon..

So yeah, for now the plan is to run my ebay 16g.

[turbotalon1g]

Even if you buy an old version of link its totally worth it, should be cheap. Or the lite version.

[gvr4]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

Even if you buy an old version of link its totally worth it, should be cheap. Or the lite version.

Off the top of your head, do you know the differences between v2 and v3? Looks like v3 lite would work just fine for me, I'm wondering what functionality is lost when going back to v2.

I'm also guessing that tuning DSM's without a wideband is about as useless as when I was burning chips for my OBD1 GM setup.

[Constant_Project21]

Yea a wideband and link should be the first couple mods for most people. Seems people have good luck learning how to use it. I have only played around with it a few times, and was able to get the settings for a couple start ups. Nick at MAP (Nick@MAPerformance.com) is the guy you want to talk to about a dyno checklist, he is our service writer and sets all that stuff up. Email is prob best, hes a busy fellow.

V3 lite is a good start and you can always upgrade to full for some extra bucks down the road.

[turbotalon1g]

I don't remember, but you should get v3 because it uses usb rather than serial cable.

[gvr4]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

I don't remember, but you should get v3 because it uses usb rather than serial cable.

yeah, that sorta seals it. I've never used a serial to usb converter that wasn't a PITA.