Exhaust manifold stud removal

[iceminion]

Since the dawn of my dsm days I have been challenged with many platform-specific issues; one of which I have not found a reliable solution to: exhaust manifold stud removal.

Now if you are lucky, you can remove them in one piece, this can usually be accomplished by firmly attaching a vice-grip to the stud (manifold removed) and work it back and forth until it is free enough to be twisted out.

Once the stud is removed, buy the stainless stud kit from one of the many local shops or online sites. Flawless victory!

Now what if you have a stud that is broken off flush with the aluminum, or worse: broken off INSIDE the head a half-centimeter or so?

In the past I have taken the head to a machine shop where I drop it off, and the next day: issue resolved. Once I even brought a complete longblock in (to save the headgasket).

I assume the best home based repair would be to use an electric hand drill, but in practice, it is extremely difficult to keep the bit centered on the stud and not walk onto the soft aluminum. Maybe a solution would be to get a dremel tool and a carbide bit, build a jig of some-sort to insure that the hole cut is true.

I'm just putting this out there. What have other members done to solve said issue.

Thank you.

[123abc]

After the whole drill, break drill bit, try easy out, etc. I've found that a torx bit can work really well if you get the right size and use a hammer to get some bite. I was able to do two studs that were an eighth inch inside the head using that method.

[Tachyon]

I have an incredibly sharp carbide needle punch that I use to make a dimple in the center of the stud. Once I've hammered a nice indentation where I want it, I start drilling a pilot hole with a very small drill bit. It's important to use a very low speed when starting this hole.

Next, depending on how things are going, I either incrementally start increasing the bit size, or if it's a well centered pilot hole, I immediately switch to the bit size for my Easy-out. With the hole drilled, I tap the Easy-out gently into the hole, then with the drill set to a low speed, reverse stud out. It's never failed for me yet

[mitsukid124]

not meaning to thread jack or anything, what if its rusted in there pretty bad?

[96GST16g]

i dont think it can rust considering the heads aluminum

[mitsukid124]

well yeah, i mean like its crazy seized, and the bolts are all shot.

[slowbubblecar]

I haven't broken any manifold studs off yet, but I have broken a few turbo bolts off (even with using anti-sieze). I used to do the vice grip way for exhaust manifold studs and it usually worked pretty well. Now, my method for taking them off is to use 2 nuts.

Thread the first nut on most of the way and thread the other one right up next to it. Start backing out the inside nut (closer to the head) and it should back out the stud (as it can't go anywhere). This way is less work on your hands.

I know QPR had a tool that pretty much grips most of the stud so you can grab most of it but I am not sure where they got it. Maybe one of the other shops has a similar tool. It would probably help in extracting it without breaking it off in the first place.

If I was to break a stud off, I would probably just take it to a machine shop. For how cheap they do it and the turn-around time, it is worth not worrying about it. It was cheap for them to my turbo bolts and I can't imagine the weaker exhaust manifold studs being any more.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Centerpunch, drill, easy-out. Problem solved.

[TkrPerformance]

That is all I do also. Drill it and use a easy out. Works every time.

[iceminion]

Where would be a good place to look for that center-punch, every one i have tried doesn't leave much of a mark, definitely not enough to keep a drill bit centered.

[slowbubblecar]

Maybe you need to hit it harder.