Uber thanks to Bernie! and more..

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-13-2005

Bernie drove his ass over to my buddies house and helped us through the rotating assembly on Kc's engine. It is all done and good to go.

Now for the front case. That worries me a bit since I've heard mixed stories about stub shafts and people making mistakes with the install. We are eliminating the Bs'.

Once the front case is on, it's pretty simple rolling from there. I've read a lot of shit about torquing ARPS. I am going to stick with what I was told by a proven person and torque to 80 ft lbs and retorque to 80 ft lbs at like 500 miles or something.

Oil squiters. I forget the torque spec but it's not much. Use a little bit of red loctite ? I don't suppose great things will happen if one falls off =/

Break in period. I want to see what people on here have done for break in, who built the motor, and how it's doing today. I have gotten about 4 different ways ( with many variations of each) to breaking in a motor. I think we will do the vac pull routine and take it on the free way and do 3rd gear pulls through the gear till like 90ish, then back it off and let the engine break down to like 30 several times. I think that will seat the rings on both sides well. Someone chime in if they have ideas please!! Up for ideas.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-13-2005

This isn't in the tech area because I'm looking for ideas, not facts. I don't want anyone being bashed or trashed on. I want to know whatever people have to offer and I will take the info out of it that I'd like.

I don't care where this thread goes really. So admins, please let whatever go. Thanks a lot!!

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-13-2005

Oh yea Charlie. Sorry you didn't get to come up. It was a last second thing. Even if you came, you woulda missed it.

Jakey · 09-13-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pimpin Dsmstyle

Break in period. I want to see what people on here have done for break in, who built the motor, and how it's doing today.

Somewhere around here Vicious posted up a very thorough description of how he broke in his Magnus toy.

EclipseGST · 09-13-2005

The way I have been told is to break in a motor was to be a little hard on it. If your gentle with it, it takes longer for the rings to seat to the cylinder walls. Change the oil and filter frequently and dont use a cheap filter either.

My opinion is to drive it hard but remember that its a new motor when your doing so. Take nascar for example... A few mins after the first start up on a brand new/rebuilt motor they rev to 6-7k rpms. Then they go and pound the shit out of them for 500 miles, not sure if they rebuild them after every race but if they dont then they go even longer. Same goes with other race cars. Also every car factory doesnt break in the each brand new car.

I built the 6 bolt in my car right now, when I first started it I let it idle up to normal temp with random revs to 3k. Then I shut it down and checked all the fluids, made sure there is no leaks and then took it for a drive. drove 25 miles thru town, stop and go traffic. Then changed the oil. Took it back out on the freeway and did random pulls thru 2nd and 3rd. Put about 100 miles on it, then changed the oil again. I was hard on it but was careful to what I was doing. 250 miles later I brought it up to the MNSC meet when I first met you. Since I built it I havent had a single problem with it. Many, many beatings since and not one thing wrong with it. Did a compression test 3 days ago... 160-162-159-161. Pretty decent seeing what I put it thru.

The way an engine is broken in can be argued to death. Its really up to you how you want to do it. Just make sure you change the oil and filter a lot. I'd recommed doing it twice withing the first 100 miles, at 500 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 and every 2500 after that. I did it a little more than that on my car but I was just being causious.

These are MY opinions and what I have been told. Sue me if you dont like it.

slowbubblecar · 09-13-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by EclipseGST

The way I have been told is to break in a motor was to be a little hard on it. If your gentle with it, it takes longer for the rings to seat to the cylinder walls. Change the oil and filter frequently and dont use a cheap filter either.

My opinion is to drive it hard but remember that its a new motor when your doing so. Take nascar for example... A few mins after the first start up on a brand new/rebuilt motor they rev to 6-7k rpms. Then they go and pound the shit out of them for 500 miles, not sure if they rebuild them after every race but if they dont then they go even longer. Same goes with other race cars. Also every car factory doesnt break in the each brand new car.

I built the 6 bolt in my car right now, when I first started it I let it idle up to normal temp with random revs to 3k. Then I shut it down and checked all the fluids, made sure there is no leaks and then took it for a drive. drove 25 miles thru town, stop and go traffic. Then changed the oil. Took it back out on the freeway and did random pulls thru 2nd and 3rd. Put about 100 miles on it, then changed the oil again. I was hard on it but was careful to what I was doing. 250 miles later I brought it up to the MNSC meet when I first met you. Since I built it I havent had a single problem with it. Many, many beatings since and not one thing wrong with it. Did a compression test 3 days ago... 160-162-159-161. Pretty decent seeing what I put it thru.

The way an engine is broken in can be argued to death. Its really up to you how you want to do it. Just make sure you change the oil and filter a lot. I'd recommed doing it twice withing the first 100 miles, at 500 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 and every 2500 after that. I did it a little more than that on my car but I was just being causious.

These are MY opinions and what I have been told. Sue me if you dont like it.

What compression pistons did you put in it? A 1g block we have that has 125,xxx miles on it is a stock block never replaced or rebuilt and it still had 150 across.

EclipseGST · 09-13-2005

7.8:1 stock spec rings, no overbore, just hone. It it might be kinda low for having 15k miles on it but I have reason to believe the valves arent seating correctly. Now that I have the tools I am going to take the head off in mid October and redo the valve seats, replace the valve guides and grind the valves before the last race of the season. When I put the motor together it had 8 bent valves, I replaced the valves and looked over the guides and they seemed ok. None of them were bent or cracked. Runs just fine but I have a feeling that I could get better numbers if I rebuild the head.

Outlaw1 · 09-13-2005

You're welcome for the help shortblocking the engine, Josh. The biggest thing to look at is, why was the engine rebuilt in the first place? Was there a problem that caused the original piston to crack in the first place? Lean? Ring gap too tight? Like we talked about last night, everyone does have their own break-in preferences, and they're all different. The clearances are there, or they're not there.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-13-2005

The cylinder with the cracked piston was the same cylinder that wasn't firing. There was a short in the line somewhere. We fixed it temporarily when he was still driving it, but Matt is coming out to run a new wire. That may have been the cause.

If that wasn't the cause, we better find something so we dont have the same problem!

carltalon · 09-13-2005

I would recomend retorquing the head studs before 500 miles. I think I was told to do it at 100 miles. You don't want to run into any problems like I did with head gaskets.

AJ · 09-13-2005

Break the bitch in on the dyno.

Tauni · 09-13-2005

I've heard you are supposed to do frequesnt oil changes the first few hundred miles. And I think I was told you have to drive it about 500-1k miles gently.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-13-2005

I think a car will turn out like you train it. Sort of like a dog. If you treat it like a bitch, it's going to dog like a bitch. I think for break in, you need quite a bit of load and boost, just not WOT all the time.

That is my opinion, and it could be wrong. But I'm going to get on it a bit and see my theory through. I will be pretty gentle for 100 miles for sure Vac pulls and such.. a little bit tougher through the 500 mile oil change, then WOT on the dyyyyno!

Yea Carl, it is change oil and retorque @ 100 miles. Change oil again at 500. then go to about 3000 intervals. Mike told me this at least a long time ago.

Thanks to Matt ( alpine TSI) for coming out and doing the wiring !! Thanks man! Which reminds where, where the fuck is Eric these days.. still no sign of him?

Outlaw1 · 09-14-2005

Uber to you and KC for coming over and giving me a hand, whatever the hell uber is. If you still have that stock AWD exaust, I might have to throw it on my car just to get it rolling around. If you and KC come over later, bring that 1 1/4" socket and a shift knob. I'll provide the pizza. OH NO, I forgot to order the bracket for the rack! Dammit, I'll order it right now.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-14-2005

yEA.. just a dumb engineer! haha.

uber = super or something...

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 09-14-2005

Stock exhaust is gone, but kc has a cat back... He hacked up his DP and I gave mine to someone.. I forget who.