Easy Out Broke Off...

IndiEP · 07-23-2004

Upon removing a broken exhaust stud that was flush w/the head, the easy out broke off in the stud. I was only on the second turn when it snapped, so its not in to far. I grounded it flat and started drilling over again but the easy out is so hard that its impossible to drill through. I’ve grounded away as much metal as possible to try and get past it so I can resume drilling. I’m now ½ into the stud (broke completely flush w/head) and now that I’m drilling again I’m hardly putting a divot into the stud.

I’m using good drill bits (cobalt and industrial bits), good drill and, drilling at a medium speed and oiling the bit/stud. My dad and myself have been working on this the past two nights and its impossible to get a hole drilled. I drilled the original hole w/a crappy bit and was done in about 5min. Now there is prolly about 40min of drilling.

The head is still on the block but if anyone has suggestions/ideas, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

john · 07-23-2004

Nah, you have about covered it. Use cobalt bits, oil, and go slow. When tapping the new hole, use thread cutting oil and go slowely. Use anti sieze when installing the new studs.

A//// Guy · 07-24-2004

Yank the head and take it to red rooster and have them pull it if there is no way you can.

Good luck, I hate those situations.

Enes · 07-24-2004

normal drill bits tighten the bolt while you are drilling.

try getting reverse drill bits, i actually didnt even need to use ez out on a lot of broken bolt removals because of the fact that i used reverse drill bits and it would slowly work its way out too..

_E

IndiEP · 07-24-2004

I'm going to try everything possible to aviod removing the head. Where would I get reverse drill bits?

**JET** · 07-24-2004

Alright, cobalt bits are NOT the way to go. You need to get a carbide tipped masonry bit. The steel shaft will allow it to flex some and not chip so easily. You will still need to be careful not to let it chatter.

Another option is that they well bits for the dremel tool that have ground up diamond on the outside. That will grind away the easy out.

Like Enes said, left hand drills should be the first option to get out a dead bolt/stud. Don't go straight to the easy out, that should be one of the last options.

IndiEP · 07-24-2004

Just so happens that I have a masonary bit so I'm gonna try that out.

Jet- I was using dremel dimond tiped cutting bits w/my dye grinder (trying to keep the rpms down) they worked a little bit but the pointed stone was working better untill I'd round off the point. Where could I pick up some heary duty bits that are still small? I'm guessing it be the same things you use for porting but if I could create a hole then I could pound in the crew extractor.

**JET** · 07-24-2004

Make sure the masonry bit is carbide tipped.

I think I found the bits at sears? They are 1/8" and feel like sand paper on the outside. Definately not like a porting bit. EZ-outs are a pain in the ass if you break them off, that is why I almost never use them. Over a 3/8" bolt you are ok because it is a big one, but under than and you can run into trouble.

IndiEP · 07-24-2004

Well I don't think the masonary bit I had was carbid 'cause it didn't do a thing. I've also done some creative ideas involving welding but I can't get any welds to adhere so the easy out must be in there further than I though. Thanks for the help guys, I'm trying everything I can that doesn't involve removing the head.

john · 07-24-2004

Masonry bits are carbide tipped and come in several sizes, not only 1/8 inch. If you are drilling the stud out and tapping it, you will want to use a 1/4 bit or .272" bit. 1/4" is the most common. If you use a carbide tipped bit you will want to work slowely. If you don't you will burn the carbide off the tip. Start with a smaller bit to get started. Then gradually go up in size. I have never used masonry bits when drilling out a stud and easy out before...

**JET** · 07-25-2004

Quote:

Originally posted by 92tsiawd84@Jul 24 2004, 10:33 PM
If you are drilling the stud out and tapping it, you will want to use a 1/4 bit or .272" bit. 1/4" is the most common. If you use a carbide tipped bit you will want to work slowely. If you don't you will burn the carbide off the tip. Start with a smaller bit to get started. Then gradually go up in size.

I have never used masonry bits when drilling out a stud and easy out before...

Alright, you tell him how to use a masonry bit, but then proceed to say that you have never used one in this situation before? I thought we went over this!! If you don't know what you are talking about, STFU!!

Allan, ban this n00b for a week, I will paypal you the money!

No, not all masonry bits are carbide. You want firm steady pressure on the masonry bit and use a LOT of coolant/oil on it.

Did you try the left hand drill bits? It is probably in there too hard now from trying to drill it out, though.

IndiEP · 07-25-2004

I'll resume working on it tue/wed till then I've been getting other things done.

I'm going to pick up the drill bits but w/the way things have been going, I've removed more material using a dye grinder than drilling. So either the easy out is still in there or the stud has become hardend due to heat or drilling (I'm just speculating here). I think that if I could get ahold of a good porting bit I can make a hole, then start drilling. If some one can referd me to any stores that sell such a bit that would be great, Northern might be my best bet though.

john · 07-26-2004

I have only been stating what has worked for me. All masonry bits we stock at work are carbide tipped. "I" would use a hard metal bit (cobalt) instead of a concrete bit (masonry). Just my opinion. Stay OT.

If you are removing bits, you are headed in the right direction. Odds are that your die grinder spins quicker than you drill. You could try putting a bit on the die grinder if you want or a rotozip bit.

**JET** · 07-26-2004

The problem is that the EZ-out is harder than the cobalt drill bit! That is why EZ-outs are so brittle, because they are so hard.

Don't use a porting bit though, you will want to use something much finer. A porting bit is made for softer metal and will just burn up against the EZ-out (just like the cobalt drill bit above). I would suggest staying with the diamond tipped bit.

PSI2HI · 07-26-2004

Just leave the fucking stud in there,it's not gonna do much harm missing one bolt on the manifold. You'll have the head off sooner or later and when you do take the head in and have them cut out the bit, weld the hole shut and redrill and tap it.

Nick

IndiEP · 07-26-2004

Well if anyone cares, I picked up a carbid burr remover. Grinded away the easy out w/no problem, re-drilled the hole and am going to re-tapp it. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!