Project Uber Fast GSX

[tpunx99GSX]

Its GSX modding time!!!
Mods that will go on tonight and tomorrow:
PTE SCM6152E Turbo
O2 housing with external dump to atmosphere
4" deep FMIC
Magnus SMIM
Magnus Fuel Rail
FIC 950cc injectors
Pruven Performance Head
Metal Head gasket
Greddy Type S Bov
FuelLab FPR with 10an SS Lines
DSMLink
3" Exhaust
Tial 38mm WG w/ Race valve.
AEM WBO2
1g Throttle body
Forge MBC
2.5" IC Piping from my GST - Adding bead on ends of each pipe, repainting and putting in.
Unorthodox Racing crank pully
*if time Southbend DXD 6 puck clutch.
Things that will be removed:
A/C
Cruise control

Pics of the build will be posted later.

[TkrPerformance]

very nice
post them pics soon

[A//// Guy]

Sounds nice. Just make sure you add Fire extinguisher to that list.

[Matt D.]

Originally Posted by M/// Guy

Sounds nice. Just make sure you add Fire extinguisher to that list.

And a reverse lock out.

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

FuelLab FPR with 10an SS Lines

You're definitely not going to run out of fuel line capacity.

[Goat Blower]

SC61, don't you mean "mildly fast"? :-)

[tpunx99GSX]

Fire extinguisher has been in the car since i bought it. my buddy took one from an apartment complex and gave it to me. So its a big freakin bottle one. I think im going to paint it gloss black though.

The 10 AN Lines only go from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, then from the other side of the fuel rail to the FPR then i think its 8 an from the reg to the stock return line. Eventually i would like to go 10an from tank to rail. but i think i would need another pump just to fill the line itself.

I really hate that an SCM61 is considered a small turbo now. I should have just said fuck it and got a GT42R, At least that would have been considered big for a month or two. buying a turbo for a dsm is like buying a PC, by the time it reaches your house there is already a bigger and better one on the market.

The main goal for this car is i would like to be over 600 to the wheels. Not sure if ill do it with these parts or if i have to go bigger, but that is definatly the goal.

[Kracka]

Sweet, good luck!

[tpunx99GSX]

Oops forgot, also adding a Unothodox Racing crank pully its so much lighter then the stock one, its all aluminum. Still contimplating swapping the clutch over (Southbend DXD 6 puck) this weekend, but i dont know if i will have time, so i may stick with whats in there (unsure).
Im actually really surprized at how this car shifts, 7000+ RPMs shifts like butter. Anyone know a good way to tell if the tranny was built by shep or if it was built by someone else?

[A//// Guy]

Umm you might want to rethink that crank pulley. There is a reason people use the stock dampened ones.

[Kracka]

Leave the stock DAMPENED pulley on the car. If you insist on replacing it, I think Buschur and a few other companies make aftermarket dampened ones.

[Jakey]

Originally Posted by tpunx99GSX

Oops forgot, also adding a Unothodox Racing crank pully its so much lighter then the stock one, its all aluminum.

Harmonics?

[tpunx99GSX]

I would like to know why as well? I dont have an AC belt, and there shoudl be enough flex in the Alternator belt to not really need dampening. Someone please shed some light on this?
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=600&page=1 this is the pulley i am talking about. not exactly cheap but a buddy gave it to me for free because i fixed his timing belt.

[tpunx99GSX]

Just looked it up and found some good information. Looks liek that pulley is not going on my car.
Why your engine needs a damper:
Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that occurs creates a torque spike that is applied to the crankshaft through the piston and rod. This torque spike is so severe that it not only turns the crankshaft, it actually twists the crankshaft ahead of its normal rotation and then the crankshaft rebounds. This twisting action is known as torsional vibration. When these torque spikes and forces get into phase with the natural frequency, critical torsional harmonic vibrations occur and can be seriously destructive to the bearings and the crankshaft. Dampers are designed to control those destructive vibrations.

Rubber VS Silicone Fluid:
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.

Damper Facts:
1.) Most stock dampers are actually tuned absorbers and do not work when the the engine is modified from the original set-up.

2.) The damper is not a balancer. It's job is to control torsional vibrations.

3.) The silicone inside a Fluidampr will not expire and is not effected by temperature change.

4.) An externally balanced assembly should be balanced with only the counterweight or stock damper installed.

[Super Bleeder!!]

sounds like a ctrl + V from the fluidampr site.

[tpunx99GSX]

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!!

sounds like a ctrl + V from the fluidampr site.

ctrl v from extremepsi.

The project is coming along nicely. Last night i got home at around 6 pm and started crankin on it at around 7 until around 1:30. Managed to get the engine bay stripped down to basically the wiring harness and a block and tranny (no head).
This morning i woke up and got right to it. (im worthless in the morning and day.) I got the new throttle cable in, got the head loaded and in (wished i could have used my ARPs from the 6 bolt, oh well). The intake mani is on, Turbo, WG and manifold are on, timing belt is retensioned and on, needed to remake the bracket for the coil packs because there wasnt a hole close enough to the top of the head so i had to use a lower hole and extend the bracket with the trusty ol welder. i made a bead on the ends of all of my ic piping so it can hold more boost, then repainted them black. Got the FPR mounted and hooked up, along with the fuel rail.
Its now 3am so i think im calling it a night and will finish tomorrow. So far it has gone by really fast. The tear down took almost no time whatsoever. I have been taking lots of pics, and will post them soon.
I finally realised something, lately i have been doing A LOT of side jobs with people that need shit done with their DSMs, (trannys, timing belts, turbo installs, repairs etc) and now that im finally working on my own car again, its actually really fun again. I wasnt having fun with the other cars i was working on for many reasons such as wanting to get them done and out of my garage as fast as possible, and i think the main reason, is that i know that there will be a huge benefit from this build HP wise. It just proves the statement "you cant turn a hobby into a job." Sure working on DSMs helped make rent while i was laid off, but it stopped being fun.

[tpunx99GSX]

Here are some pics to start.
Picked up the car looking like this http://www.dsmstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16956

Here is a couple pics before i really started the build. I changed the rims, added a side skirt from my White GST and painted it red, painted the mirrors red as well. The middle picture is me and a couple friends Count the dsms... Also not shown is my white gst which is hiding on the side of my house. Third pic is of the engine bay before the build

[tpunx99GSX]

Here are some pictures of the progress of the build.
More pics coming tomorrow of hopefully a finished project.

[tpunx99GSX]

so its all done. Ill post pics later.
Couple typical things though. I have a couple boost leaks that i have to take care of, it sounds like around the intake mani and throttle body. and i have an exhaust leak, which im going to have to figure out.
The car pulls insane. The lowest my boost controller is allowing is 27PSI, but on the dsmlink it shows little to no knock at that high of boost.

[Kracka]

Wow, you got a lot done fairly quickly! Congrats Tom!