not to stir the pot and get off topic, but I think his car is faster than yours.
And if im not mistaken, he has a 5.0, not the 4.6.
Anywho, I was mistaken on the rau 175mph traps, im not sure where I got that from, but whatever I was wrong. [/b][/quote]
Blah blah blah; and 3/S's are fast. :secret: :lol: :lol: :lol:






































jk.

He traps at 177ish but does not use eagle rods, he uses some aluminum rod, I think there grodons(sp) or some chevy aluminum rod.

~John

Whoooaaaaaa take the stick outta your a$$, what did I do to you? And if you really believed me about all the aluminum stuff in my car you are quite the dumba$$. And no I do not have a 4.6. I also never said my car was fast.

:naughty:

Mustangs use some shitty hypereutectic pistons that fail at the first sign of detonation.

you insulted me with your terrible taste

what the hell does this have to do with chris' dyno results?

i dunno, but my crank and rods are forged and nitride hardened stock. and now i have some radical hyperutectic pistons to compliment them! ;)

all comes factory here.
forged crank, rods, and cast pistons.

Let's try and keep this on topic :slap:

chris just got back from the dyno again, and they said hey buddy how come your car has no motor?

Maybe it:

it didnt walk, it ran.

Has there been any sort of obvious reason show up as to why Chris' car walked?

Actually, now that the string of longblocks is settling down a bit, I should be able to pull the rest of his apart tomorrow and find out if there is any indication. I am guessing there won't be since the cap didn't have any ability to shift or otherwise. Beyond that, or some obvious oiling issue, anything else would be speculation. I mainly just want to find no damage to the crank or block surfaces. It didn't walk as far as it seemed at first, the damage may be contained to just the bearing itself. Keep your fingers crossed. If all is good, higher load bearings, and a twin disk clutch should prevent it from going again. I found 1 place in the cities that will polish the thrust surface of a crank which we will also probably do. The machine to do that work is about 80K I have been told and this is the only one in the Midwest supposedly.

How does running a twin disc clutch potentially reduce the risk of walking again?

as i understand it, they provide a lot of clamp, but not so much "thrust" against the crank/flywheel

Not quite. They use less clamp (stock or lighter pedal pressure) and more area. They have 2 disks (who would’a thunk it?), so they have double the friction area of a single disc clutch and thus can hold a lot of power with little force.

So some were around stock force on the thrust bearing VS. ACT 2900. Hmmm...

Mike, I know that Gopher will do polishing of cranks.

I think most of them use a considerably less than stock pressure plate.

most of them are equal to or less than stock pressure plate force, the 'grab' is found from the greater surface area and different choice of material (almost like having 2 clutches, to hold 800hp, you only need 2 @400hp capible). Pretty much what ryan said.

i knew that, i was just making sure ryan did ;)

Spoken like a true engineer.

Alot of places polish cranks, the thrust surface isn't so easy. But it is Gopher that can do it that I was talking about.

Without doing any research, which manufacturers produce a twin disc setup?

Most are very expensive. AMS sells one for a decent price, but they only make them when they get enough people on a list to make a batch. Let me know if you call them, I would very interested in one.

I am guessing they would only make batches in specific configs 6 bolt or 7 and since the flywheel is part of it, that wouldn't probably help to go in with Chris on it. If you find out otherwise, let me know, maybe there are some of our other customers that might be up for it ORC also makes one that is pretty nice for a 7 bolt but very expensive like around 1800.

Having a 7 bolt myself and just going threw this decision process...
Off the top of my head:

HKS (I just picked up a used one)
RPS
Tilton
South Bend Clutch (SBC) (would probably make one if you called them)

I also considered getting a stock pressure plate (or a custom lower pressure SBC PP) and having SBC make a feramic disk for it. But I found a used HKS Twin Plate with low miles (and that can be rebuilt for about the price of a new clutch and new Fidanza flywheel surface), so I figured I go with something that's a little more tested.

My biggest complaint about the HKS so far is that the hole in the center of the flywheel is way to big for an alighnment tool. It took two tries to get it right (before the tranny would bolt up) and now I found out that I may have to redo it and go threw all that pain again!

:fworld:

what about Exedy?

I thought Exedy made one for the 7-bolts. I have an AMS twin disc on my 7-bolt.

Exedy makes one and I believe redhead does too. The exedy is 7 bolt only and ~$1400.