Confused :S

[EclipseGST]

Keep the AFC at 0 and let the computer do its job. Basically all the AFC is doing is lying to the computer about how much air flow is entering the engine. Hense the name... Air Flow Converter. The ECUs fuel maps are already set for 450's, so by adding on the AFC you are just lowering the amount of air you can flow because the AFC is telling the ECU that you are flowing more air than you really are to give it more fuel making it a lot easier for your fuel maps to max out and for you to get fuel cut. By subtracting on the AFC you start to run lean. Probably not at what you are running but I wouldnt be pushy with much over 10psi on the 50 trim.

Get injectors ASAP! Also throw in a Datalogger to your "Things to get" list. :)

[tpunx99GSX]

So the turbo is on and running. after many trips to home depot. LOL.
this turbo was a much bigger project then putting the t28 on.
So the first test run i took fucking sucked. I thought that if you kept the afc in the positives that meant it was going to put more fuel in, slaps head....
So it wouldnt pull past 3k rpms without starting to bog. but then all of the sudden about 4 blocks from my house the car takes a crap and is sputtering backfireing etc wont drive past 1k rpm... i pull over and am like oh fuck i just blew my motor... so i start it up again and limp it back home with the hazards on the whole way. put it in the garage and look over everything, look at the turbo and think to myself "that dont look right" The LICP piping blew off the turbo. LOL
So i put the piping back on and run upstairs to get some technical advice over AIM from S2Kracka, and he set me straight about the safc, so i go out for another test run and ease into it and had the safc set from 1k to 3k -5 from 3k on from -15 to -20 and this seems to be a good running spot until i get the injectors. Just need to turn the boost down more because once it gets spooled it starts clicking loudly, which from past expirences has told me that im running too much boost and not enough fuel.
I cant wait until everything is completely finished with the FMIC and Injectors and tune, from the butt meter she is gonna pull hard in the 3.5k rpm and up range.
Big thanks to everyone that helped me out over AIM the past couple days.

[EclipseGST]

Why are you in the negative on the AFC??? -20% is about where you would be with 550cc injectors. You have to be running really lean considering the mods you have. If you still have the stock injectors, why mess with the AFC at all? Have you logged any of this? I'm curious to see what your timing curve is since -20% is way lean for 450cc injectors so your probably knocking a bit. The stock ECU can handle the 450's just fine and you will actually see more of a gain leaving the AFC at 0 instead of -20% without using a logger of some sort for fine tuning. My suggestion is get a logger and find out what it is really doing instead of just guessing. I know your not running a lot of boost but the engine needs all the fuel it can get and by going into the negatives on the AFC you are just taking fuel away.

I dont know if (Tpunx) you're understanding what I am trying to get at so will someone else please comment on this. Either that or someone with good experiance tell me to STFU and explain where I am wrong. I just dont want to have him mess up a motor or head gasket even. Which can both be blamed on a bad tune job.

[Kracka]

He had to adjust this AFC that way just to get the car to run and be able to drive semi-normally. He will NOT be going WOT at all until the car is dyno-tuned so he should be alright for now since the ECU takes care of closed-loop driving and will adjust the fuel trims as needed (within reason of course).

[Onefast99gsx]

What S2kracka said.... If you ever blow off the intercooler pipe again, Change everything on your AFC to a negative -50, or however low it goes. I had to do that on my old GST a couple of times to limp it home. Had to do it once on my GSX early this summer when a hose blew off. When the blow off, the computer is reading all kinds of air so it dumps more fuel at it. You'll probably want to weld a better bead on the end of your pipes to prevent it from happening again.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

It it needs -20% on the AFC to run at part throttle, then there is something wrong with the car. It should be fine at 0%, unless you change injector size.

[Kracka]

You'll probably want to weld a better bead on the end of your pipes to prevent it from happening again.

Make sure you have good quality clamps tighted down very heavily. Also, after you install your FMIC do a boost leak check b/c I can assure you there will be a leak somewhere, there almost always is :)

[EclipseGST]

It it needs -20% on the AFC to run at part throttle, then there is something wrong with the car. It should be fine at 0%, unless you change injector size.

This is what I was talking about. He shouldnt have to adjust anything on the AFC to get his car to run right.

[tpunx99GSX]

The car idles just fine at 0% but when the turbo starts spoolin up at around 3k rpms its seeing way too much air, so i would beed to be leaned out. which is where i was seeing the problem. So i leaned it out and it was able to get above 3k.

[1ViciousGSX]

The car idles just fine at 0% but when the turbo starts spoolin up at around 3k rpms its seeing way too much air, so i would beed to be leaned out. which is where i was seeing the problem. So i leaned it out and it was able to get above 3k.I'm thinking you should be looking for a boost leak. ;)