Priming the oil pump and break in ?'s

[Alpine TSi]

I already have the head bolted to the new block and torqued down. The turbo, exh mani, intake mani, and such were all attached so that is taken care of. My main question is that I was told to prime the oil pump prior to starting the motor. I managed to forget exactly what I was supposed to do inorder to get that done. Do I just spin the oil pump gear with everything hooked up and wait until I see oil come out of the head, or do I do the timing belt and then spin the crankshaft?

Also I have heard a few suggestions on break in procedure on a new motor, and would like to get a few more. The one I have thought would work the best for me is vac pulls for the first 50-100 miles with straight 30w oil for the first 500 with changes at 50, 100, and 500. Low boost, not too much fuel and then after 500 miles start the fun. Any other personal methods out there? I just want to make sure this motor is taken care of as I am not rich enough to buy another built motor if something goes wrong.

In case it matters:

6 Bolt Block
9.5:1 JE's 20 over (used, supposedly once were Jet's)
New Eagle H-Beams
Kings bearings
Machined at Wags (QPR treatment except not torque plated)
QPR style b-shaft removal
New front case, oil pump, water pump, etc.
New Timing belt and components.

Thanks in advance!

[Wizard50369]

I think i read somewhere to prime the engine, you take the Fuel Injector relay and crank the engine over for a little bit. I still need to research this a little more too cause I'm about to break in my new engine :) yay, 2 more DSMs back on the road.

[Alpine TSi]

This motor is on a stand, not in the car. I am hoping to have the complete longblock done and ready to startup before it even gets in the car.

[EclipseGST]

I believe you said the timing belt was off... If so spin the pump (Gear next to the crank) with a drill or a impact wrench on its highest setting. Thats really the only way to get the oil all around the motor. The other option is while its in the car, take the injector clips off the injectors and crank the car of a decent amount of time.

As far as break in processes. Everyone has their own opinion. There was a thread on this awhile back and a bunch of people chimed in their opinions. Might wanna look that up.

[CDeutsch]

Make sure you disconnect the clutch switch so you can crank it without pushing in the clutch (in neutral obviously). You don't need to risk any wear on the thrust bearing before it has adequate oil.

Otherwise use a drill or air ratchet to spin the oil pump (with the timing belt off) like EclipseGST said.

[JET]

yeah, spin the pump while it is out of the car, then do it again when it is in the car and you are ready to fire it up. Break-in is way overratted. Most of it happens in the first 20 miles if you had a good plateau bore hone done. Mine went on the dyno with 23 miles on it :D

I would recommend 200 miles though. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Alpine TSi]

Cool thanks for all the info guys! As for the clutch switch, well since it was an auto before, none of that is there. So that won't be a concern. :)

[Shane@DBPerformance]

9.5:1 compression? I thought you were building a pump gas car.

[MustGoFaster]

This is for the Galant right? It's a racecar. J/K

And just cause no one has said it, the oil pump needs to be spun clockwise.

[Alpine TSi]

9.5:1 compression? I thought you were building a pump gas car.

Well the pistons I bought from you I had to sell because I lost my job right after that. Then months later when I got a big severance check I found a motor ready to be built(machined, rods, pistons, assembly hardware, etc) that I got for a good price and that had the JE's as part of it. They wouldn't have been my first choice, but they'll work. My plans have also changed a bit since then so I will still be fine with these pistons.

And this is for my Talon, but if I end up building a motor for the Galant ever, it will be pump gas only.