Bastard 20G?

[EclipseGST]

30-31" FMIC will fit fine on a 2g. You probably wont need to take out the bumper beam across the front seeing its only 7" high. You will need to shave quite a bit off the back of the bumper cover to get it to go back on right but nothing major. My FMIC is 30.5x12x3.5 and all I had to do is remove the bumper beam and cut the bumper cover a little. Really wasnt all that big of a deal. Short route piping was easy to fab up and everything went together good. Shouldnt be too difficult for you. Good luck with it.



Just gotta figure out how to properly block off those water lines now?


Whenever Mike gets out of the hospital you might want to talk to him about welding them shut for ya. If your a good welder or know someone that is then that would work too.

[howslowcanyougo]

30-31" FMIC will fit fine on a 2g. You probably wont need to take out the bumper beam across the front seeing its only 7" high. You will need to shave quite a bit off the back of the bumper cover to get it to go back on right but nothing major. My FMIC is 30.5x12x3.5 and all I had to do is remove the bumper beam and cut the bumper cover a little. Really wasnt all that big of a deal. Short route piping was easy to fab up and everything went together good. Shouldnt be too difficult for you. Good luck with it.




Whenever Mike gets out of the hospital you might want to talk to him about welding them shut for ya. If your a good welder or know someone that is then that would work too.


Thanks much for the great tips man, as still just a n00b, I need all the help I can get to try to make this happen!

[howslowcanyougo]

Just saw this post up at "tooners".....


Looping the waterlines is a super easy job. A 12" piece of hose and loop from one to the other, no big deal.

Oil cooled turbos are designed to be only oil cooled and will last just as long as an oil/water cooled turbo. Generally most guys racing run the bearing out of the turbo from high speed and high load long before heat will ever kill it. You must still cool an oil cooled turbo the same as a oil/water cooled turbo, the procedure is no different. Most turbo manufacturers (Turbonetics / Precision / Garrett) recommend only 30 seconds of cool time after a hard drive. I personally have put over 75,000km (50,000 miles) on my last oil only turbo (on a Turbo VW) and it was no different in shape then my T25 that came off my current car with 50,000 miles on it.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110553&highlight=block+waterlines

So can you really just loop the turbo waterlines together for a V Trim install or?

TIA...

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Yes, you can just loop them, don't try to plug them with a rubber cap, that won't last long. Most guys out there running bigger turbos that are not 16Gs or 20Gs, don't run water cooling. Cool down time for a turbo is only needed after you just ran it hard. If you were just driving like normal, none is needed.

[howslowcanyougo]

Well I just chickened out and changed my Turbo order to the Evo3 with the big flapper. I just can't see paying all the $ to install the ARP's and HG in this 7 bolt motor, as needed for the 60 trim.

Even between this Evo3 turbo and the new FMIC, you'd think I still should see some descent gains?

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

Why are ARPs and a headgasket required for a 60 trim? Detonation is what kills headgaskets and lifts the head, not the size of your turbo.

[howslowcanyougo]

Why are ARPs and a headgasket required for a 60 trim? Detonation is what kills headgaskets and lifts the head, not the size of your turbo.

That's the info that "slowbubblecar" posted to this thread? I'm no expert, but pushing more air and boost = loosing headgaskets makes sense to me?

Overall in my case, with this car, right now, I think that I'm better off backing off from the 60 trim, and settleing for the Evo3 and the FMIC upgrades.

[TheBlizzard]

Why are ARPs and a headgasket required for a 60 trim? Detonation is what kills headgaskets and lifts the head, not the size of your turbo. So your saying someone could run 30+ psi on stock headbolts and be ok as long as its on a good tune? I agree with the headgasket not having to be anything more than a stock Mitsu since its just like a fuse in my opinion. But not having headbolts? Don't know about that one.

[scheides]

Headgaskets get blown by detonation and high boost pressure. a 60-trim will be fine on your stock motor, just do not run more than ~25 lbs of boost. Past that, the stock head studs are not strong enough and the head will start lifting away from the block. Add in the higher likelyhood of detonation at those high boost levels and you got yourself a wicked detonation. Go for a scm61 or something, and tune it for like 19-21 psi and you'll have yourself a pump gas monster.

[slowbubblecar]

My car blew coolant past the HG on 25 psi pump with a 60 trim. The car was not running too lean either. It had 1.83 counts of knock on that run and seemd to run fine except the big cloud of white smoke pouring out the back. My friends car behind me and my car were both misted with coolant. The HG was a new stocker copper sprayed and was torqued down to 95 with a snap on torque wrench. The head bolts were new arps. The car had about 20 miles on it and 2 highway pulls.