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howslowcanyougo
06-14-2005, 10:15 PM
That FP Green does look very nice, but $1400 is just way out of my range!

Looking at this 18G cart replacement here?

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSM18G5HwoTH&Category_Code=DSM

Looks like I could use this to repair my blown 16G?

And that lower price could save my bacon right about now.

But I'd need it to really work!

Anyone ever done this, how hard is it to reassemble this parts combo into a working turbo?

JET
06-14-2005, 10:41 PM
Not a bad option, but it won't last as long on your DD without the water cooled center section.

Wizard
06-14-2005, 10:47 PM
It'll work fine without a water-cooled center section. If you allow it to cool-down properly....you will not have any problems. The main reason manufacturers made turbos water-cooled was because most humans don't let their car idle down enough after running it hard. Which means the bearings coke up and seize. With a good quality synthetic oil and proper change intervals as well as adequate cool-down time will be more than satifactory for long turbo life. Liquid cooled or not.

Come to think of it, I don't run into a lot of diesels with turbo problems relating to 'lack of water-cooling'. And they run some serious psi (rpms).

Wiz

howslowcanyougo
06-14-2005, 10:49 PM
Not a bad option, but it won't last as long on your DD without the water cooled center section.

Very good point , Thanks!

"The bearing housing is a dry casting which means that you are free to eliminate the water connections to the turbocharger to simplify installation and R&R during those pesky HG swaps."

What good is this thing if it's not water cooled?

Just for the track and not for extended hwy runs or?

Shane@DBPerformance
06-14-2005, 11:32 PM
Read what Wizard wrote above. Water cooling really is only needed on dual ball-bearing turbos that don't use much oil for cooling and OEM applications that need to last 100,000 miles on cars that don't get regular oil changes or a short cool down period after a hard run.

JET
06-14-2005, 11:47 PM
I wasn't saying that it will burn up quickly, but it won't last as long as a water cooled one. Most of the PTE's aren't water cooled and they last pretty good. As a rule of thumb I bet you cut the turbo life in 1/2 with a dry center section. Granted you could still be looking at 40k+ miles. If you plan on keeping this turbo for a very long time, it is something to consider. If you will get rid of it soon or upgrade in a few years, then it is a viable option.

Diesels are a whole 'nother ball of wax. They run cooler and spin larger wheels at slower speeds with larger shafts.

Kracka
06-15-2005, 01:56 AM
A rebuild on your 16G will cost about $300, for a bit extra I'd get that 18G they offer. Stop spinning your turbo by hand, you're only making it worse. With that said, all turbos will make that "ting" noise w/o oil in them since the bearings ride on a film of oil and w/o that they will wobble around slightly. I still say your turbo is fine and to continue using it. JUST STOP SPINNING AND WOBBLING IT!

john
06-15-2005, 10:34 AM
Chris, I dont think his finger pressure will sieze it up... Imagine the load turbos are used to.

Enes
06-15-2005, 10:44 AM
the diesel turbos make more cfm generaly and they spin just as fast as gasoline turbos..

you should hear the poor turbo in my truck :(

Kracka
06-15-2005, 10:46 AM
Chris, I dont think his finger pressure will sieze it up... Imagine the load turbos are used to.

Yes, but they also have oil preasure while under that load. Would you crank your engine over without any oil in the crankcase?