50 trim in - lot's of smoke from exhaust

[BKs50trimGST]

Update, my NEW 50 trim that i ordered from Elite that I got directly shipped from PTE was almost 99% the reason for all my problems. The turbo had a bad seal in it and that is the reason for all the oil exhaust smoke coming from my car. It is also 99% sure that my 7 bolt went on me because i kept driving and the car kept burning off oil, when i went into high rpm's once or twice it spun the #3 rod bearing. keep in mind that this turbo was brand new! only reason why i thought it wasn't the turbo is because it is brand new, me and half the ppl on dsmstyle believed that it just was oil still in the exhaust and it was taking alot of time to burn it off. We used the PTE oil kit for the 50 trim and everything was intstalled to perfection. I drove the car with the turbo in it for about 35 miles, when we first put it in we noticed that the wheel didn't spin smoothly but hard, but of course we didn't think anything of it. After driving 35 miles and taking it off the car the turbo has basically fallen apart and destructed itself, there's in and out shaftplay and the wheel is grinding against the side of the intake inlet, causing aluminum to go into the intake. Talked to Elite and there shipping it out to PTE on tuesday and sending me out a new one which i'm very pleased about. but yeah, i feel that this car is cursed - sorry for any grammar shit, i typed this as fast i could cuz i have't slept in two days. tell me what you think!

[BKs50trimGST]

and just to let you know, the oil return line going from the turbo wasn't crimped or anything like that, and also, soon i'm going to post all about my 6-bolt, what shindley used and how happy he is about the engine that he built up for me.

[AJ]

First, not surprised to see Elite helping out with this and getting things between PTE and yourself worked out for warrenty issues. It's nice to have guys on here who work that fast to help out.

Second, I'm 99.9% fed up with your inability to type 1 fucking post that makes me want to rip my hair out reading it. I don't care if you had been up for 2 years on twinkies and cherry 7-up. Fix it.

Third, after reading all the fun shit on the MN DSM yahoo list as well with this same car I am gonna go out and say the turbo was probably fucked over by the motor already being toast. Your biggest mistake was letting someone highway tune the car with a 5 knob afc, egt, and a/f blinky gauge. There is no way a proper tune was going to be had with no way to datalog any info and only having and old 5 knob afc. Unless I missed a post that said you had antyhing else for tuning, my opinion (as worthless as it may be) is that the turbo was not at fault.

[AJ]

and just to let you know, the oil return line going from the turbo wasn't crimped or anything like that, and also, soon i'm going to post all about my 6-bolt, what shindley used and how happy he is about the engine that he built up for me.

Perfect example. 1 more post like this and bye bye for good. Take 10 extra seconds on the post, please!

[JET]

Yeah, explain to me how dirty oil in the turbo would take out an engine? It goes straight back into the oil pan, not through the engine! If the aluminum from the compressor cover was supposedly the culprit, that would not get down in the oil either, just leave lots of aluminum bits in the cylinders, or pass right through.

The only way it could do something would be to send so much crap through that it clogs the filter and bypass' it. I warned you once, don't get taken in by Rick's words. He tends to throw around a lot of ideas and big words. It is very easy to get swayed by him if you don't know exactly what you are talking about. I have had a very similar experience with him and he still will not admit that he is to blame for my engine going. Through me doing more research (which HE should have done) I found out the real cause of the problem. Rick thinks he is a guru (he doesn't pretend, he really thinks he is!), but he is not. There are several people on this board that know more about DSM's than Rick.

If he thinks he can tune a car with just an EGT guage, he is sorely mistaken. That worked with the small 16g's back in the day, but not when you get to a bigger turbo like a 50 trim. That thing was probably knocking like mad, and that killed your engine. If he is going to "tune" cars, he should at least spend $100 and get a damn logger so he can monitor knock! [/rant]

[TheBlizzard]

I have no doubt that the seals in the turbo could have gone. But I agree with JET that it isn't the reason your motor went. If the turbo was going through that much oil and you didn't catch it then thats your fault for still driving the car. When you install a big part like that you should always double and triple check everything for the first few hundred miles. I agree that your rod bearing failure was due to improper tuning which let to knock which led to the rod bearing going to shit.

I am wondering where you got your oil source from? If its in your post above then somebody quote it cause I can't read that shit more than once. I have heard that too much oil pressure has cause some PTE turbos to fail prematurely from blown seals.

CRAIG

[JET]

On the MN-DSM list Rick said it was from the oil filter housing using a RRE stainless line. Oil pressure shouldn't have been a problem, especially on a used oil pump. He must have just got a bad turbo, or it was spun up with an air compressor or something while it was dry.

[Raptor]

I have to say this, not to put blame directly on anyone, but because it is the straight up truth. I don't know who put the turbo on, but if you noticed it was spinning hard instead of smooth as it should of, it was the installers responsibility to find out why and either return it at that point or correct the problem. If you put a part on that is questionable in the beginning and something happens, should you be all that surprised? Turbos are not supposed to be hard to spin when they are new, if they are, there is a problem.

Now next on the list, why do rod bearings spin? It is usually from oil starvation, followed by overheating on the journal then failure. Oil that is extremely dirty or has no more lubricating qualities left can also add to that possibility. If the motor was new, too tight of bearing clearances can also cause it. So figure out why those situations might be true and you have the reason for your failure. Knock can cause major destruction, but it will not cause a bearing to spin.
Either way, tuning on the street without some decent method of logging is just asking for trouble.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Could be a bad turbo or maybe the motor was already on it's way out before the new turbo was put on it and took the turbo out with it. We have only ever had to return 1 PTE turbo to them for warrenty work and it was because the guy incorrectly installed an oil cooler setup on his car, so the motor and turbo didn't get any oil pressure, both the motor and turbo were ruined. PTE found bearing material in the turbo from the motor and determined the cause of failure to be oil contamination, however, they still fixed it for free under warrenty.

[BKs50trimGST]

We had the turbo put on the 6-bolt, it was fine until the car warmed up and then huge amounts of oil and aluminum smoke could be seen. he drove the car 5 miles without spooling past 10 pounds of boost. He took off the turbo and there was a lot of shaftplay going in and out, the wheel was grinding up against the intake inlet(causing the aluminum smoke). the oil was brand new and the oil was contaminated with just aluminum from the wheel grinding, i've looked up tons of info on this and there's no doubt that the turbo was just bad. I'm bringing the turbo to elite tomorrow so they can send it out to PTE to get a new one and the bad turbo looked at.