1g head on a 2g engine swap

[john]

Some parts I used in the swap were: *=needed
90 cas
1g coil
1g water line *
1g thermostat housing *
1g intake manifold (not worth without)
1g TB (not worth without)
oil blockoff plug off old 2g head (1g turbo feed line) *
1g head (duh) *
1g spark plug wires (longer)

-I needed to make a harness to adapt the 90 cas to the 2g crank and 2g cam sensor
-I had to extend the wires for the coil (relocate 2g or use 1g on mani)
-extend the wires for the power transistor (relocated to firewall)

I am not sure how you would address the cams from reading above. If they bolt on, you would either need to get a 1g cas or use your2g cams. Supposedly 1g cams are a bit better. The parts above were used in the swap. Not all are needed but it seemed the esiest for me that way. I had them and it made it a bit easier. They are not needed though. I probly have extra of each if you need any though. I will let you know if I think of anything else.

[Nash]

You don't need a 90 CAS, the one from the 99 will work just fine. You will just need to get the intake cam taped so you can use the 99 CAS. The water line and thermostat housing needs to come from a 91-94. You do not need to use a 1G coil pack, a 2G one will work just fine, you will just have to figure out a way to mount it. You will also need to use 1G radiator house, I can't remember which one. You will need to cut the shifter counter weight off. I can't remember if there is anything else you need to do. If there is I will make sure to post it up.

[john]

I have been told it is the 1g lower radiator hose that you need. I used the 90 cas (91-4 would be the same deal) so I could get rid of the 2g sensors which were possibly bad.

[Nash]

A 90 CAS is different then a 91-94 CAS, get your facts straight before you post.

[Wizard]

The only thing different is the harness. Internally they are basically the same. 90s, or 91-92 GVR4s, or Hyundai's use a pigtail that attaches at the firewall. 91-92 use a connector right at the sensor (just find the harness end and you can use it). 93-94 use a slightly different pick-up inside the sensor (hall-effect vs. optical) but use the same harness. They will ALL interchange. The big reason for switching to a 1g sensor is the fact that you can combine all the sensors into one package, and have the ability to adjust your base timing.

Wiz

[john]

A 90 CAS is different then a 91-94 CAS, get your facts straight before you post.

Uhhh, no shit. If I thought they were the same wouldn't I have put 90-94 instead of having two different categories??? I had 2 90s last year. The 90s have a different connector and a bundle of wire. I wrote "the same deal" as it would be the same as far as wiring goes. I like to use the 90s as the pigtail runs almost all the way to the fpr where it is needed to be. I had the other connector off the wiring harness that connects to the 90 cas and I cut the connectors off the old 2g cam and crank sensors to make a snap in piece. Magnus has the wiring diagram if you want to check it out. Not a big deal at all.

[JET]

Why not just use the one from the 99 and not have to mess with any wiring? Doesn't that make more sense? Get aftermarket cams for a 2g or use the stock 2g ones. Why hack up your wiring harness when you don't have to?

[Wizard]

99 (or 97-99) use a Cam Position Sensor in the same location as the 1g's. However, it is still not adjustable and is still ONLY a single sensor. Meaning you still have to worry about that fragile plastic POS sensor down at the crank.

Wiz

[john]

If you go with a 1g head, you should swap to a 1g intake manifold. If you swap to a 1g intake manifold, you have to mess with the wiring a bit anyhow. You have to extend the wires for the coil and the power transistor. In my case, the car had a bad CAS so it was an easy decision to swap to a 1g cas. Other than extending the wires above, I did not do anything else regarding "hacking" the wiring. I made a snap in connector to adapt the 1g cas to the 2 sensors.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

99 (or 97-99) use a Cam Position Sensor in the same location as the 1g's. However, it is still not adjustable and is still ONLY a single sensor. Meaning you still have to worry about that fragile plastic POS sensor down at the crank.


Well, if anything is messed up enough down by the crank to break the plastic crank sensor, they you probably don't want the motor running anyways. Crank mounted sensors are also more accurate than ones mounted on a cam for ignition timing.