niterydr
04-19-2012, 11:31 PM
You should still be able to use the sensors in the distributor instead of going with a custom crank setup. It should be a VR sensor type which MS can pick up.
There should be like 3 sensors in the distributor if memory serves me.
24 or 36 tooth - i can't remember how many tooth there is but it is there
4 tooth
1 TDC tooth
Just take apart the distributor to see what wires feed what.
You can tap into one or two of those. I recommend using the TDC tooth for one input and one of the multi tooth input for the other. You should be able to pick the wires up by the stock ECU if you have a pin out chart.
I helped out on putting a 20v in a mr2 MKI and went with the custom crank setup tooth wheel.
I wish we went with the distributor! it would have made our lives a lot easier. The multi tooth wheel by the crank looses signal. I blame the bracket that the hall sensor sits on. Need to better engineer that. after that it will work just fine.
However it would have been MUCH easier to tap into the distributor instead.
PS later down the road you don't even need to use the distributor for your ignition! You would be using it like a cam sensor instead.
the 20V is running a DSM coil pack controlled by the MS2. Works VERY well and is an ignition upgrade compare to what was there.
the 20v 4age and the 3sgte are not all that different. both have cylinder heads from YAMAHA
There are 2 wheels 1 24 tooth and 1 single tooth wheel. Three VR sensors read these, 1 on the 24 tooth and the other two read 180 degrees apart on that glorious snagletooth wheel.
Personally if I didn't want to mess with a 60-2 custom trigger wheel setup (which is best, more resolution once you get the hall effect sensor spacing setup, as you pointed out), I would go with a Honda distributor adapted on the 3sgte, then might as well go Honda ECU as mentioned here:
http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=381639&page=1&pp=30&highlight=honda+ecu
(Scarecrowx, last time I talked to him, was local)
However, I sold my MR2 and now am rocking a busted AEM EMS in a stealth :bengals:
There should be like 3 sensors in the distributor if memory serves me.
24 or 36 tooth - i can't remember how many tooth there is but it is there
4 tooth
1 TDC tooth
Just take apart the distributor to see what wires feed what.
You can tap into one or two of those. I recommend using the TDC tooth for one input and one of the multi tooth input for the other. You should be able to pick the wires up by the stock ECU if you have a pin out chart.
I helped out on putting a 20v in a mr2 MKI and went with the custom crank setup tooth wheel.
I wish we went with the distributor! it would have made our lives a lot easier. The multi tooth wheel by the crank looses signal. I blame the bracket that the hall sensor sits on. Need to better engineer that. after that it will work just fine.
However it would have been MUCH easier to tap into the distributor instead.
PS later down the road you don't even need to use the distributor for your ignition! You would be using it like a cam sensor instead.
the 20V is running a DSM coil pack controlled by the MS2. Works VERY well and is an ignition upgrade compare to what was there.
the 20v 4age and the 3sgte are not all that different. both have cylinder heads from YAMAHA
There are 2 wheels 1 24 tooth and 1 single tooth wheel. Three VR sensors read these, 1 on the 24 tooth and the other two read 180 degrees apart on that glorious snagletooth wheel.
Personally if I didn't want to mess with a 60-2 custom trigger wheel setup (which is best, more resolution once you get the hall effect sensor spacing setup, as you pointed out), I would go with a Honda distributor adapted on the 3sgte, then might as well go Honda ECU as mentioned here:
http://mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=381639&page=1&pp=30&highlight=honda+ecu
(Scarecrowx, last time I talked to him, was local)
However, I sold my MR2 and now am rocking a busted AEM EMS in a stealth :bengals: