95 Tsi Awd PPPPPProject

[notsostockgalant]

After what happened with my fidanza flywheel, starter ring coming loose and the friction surface screws coming out, I wasn't about to buy another aluminum flywheel.
So I ordered up a chromoly lightweight one which should be here on friday.

Depending on funds by the ended of the weekend the following should be done....
new rear main seal installed
new flywheel, clutch, TOB, and pressure plate put in
Trans put back in
custom 3" turbo back exhaust
Used radiator and fans
New windsheild

If it gets done this weekend it wont get driven till it has an alignment to avoid this situation again.

Also I noticed excessive slop in my timing belt between the gears idk if its because its been sitting so long or what so after the car runs n drives again and i get the funds,

Ill be purchasing....

L19 headstuds
Perma-torque Headgasket
Gates T-Belt
OEM Hydraulic tensioner
OEM idler tensioner and idler pulleys
Balance shaft elim. With OEM parts
And Since its goin this far it will be finished out with a set of Crower Springs, Retainers, keepers and 280 cams.

After the head n timing stuffs done there will hopefully be quite a few worry free miles then I'll finally put that fuel setup to use with bigger injectors a FMIC and ECMlink, and go for broke on the 16g.

So theres my goals for the car as of now. They may change a little but not much hopefully the money comes in and it will all be accomplished before spring, pending the stock bottom end holds.

Thanks for reading all my random novel writing but now you have some idea which direction the car is heading.

[notsostockgalant]

She lives once again..... *(Post is pretty darn long)*
After a few hard days work i got her all back together and shes doin pretty good for the most part. heres some pics from putting it back together ill take some of the completed project when it gets cleaned up a bit more.

Also got some bad news for some reason one of the ears broke off my starter and it scared the starter ring gear on the flywheel pretty good, I put a new starter in but it still sounds pretty rough.

On top of that its also got some clutch disengagement issues. I put a brand new slave in with the clutch and even shimmed the pivot ball while it was apart. I also extended the slave rod too about a 1/4 inch(with it extended the slave is damn close to being bottomed out). It got gravity bled last night for about 45 minutes of me watching it and was coming out steady and clean, still have to pump the shit out of it to get it to disengauge all the way, then a buddy and I bled it again today and I noticed that the clutch fork has about an an inch travel the first time the pedals depressed.

Any ideas on this issue? I know that the clutch master was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. When I first got the car it took a few pumps to get it to disengage but after a while of driving it seemed to work alright. If it makes any difference after it gets driven down the highway in the cold it seems to work just fine after the first push, but I assume thats just because the fluid gets thick right?



Well Last Friday I began prepping the trans to go back to its home. Shimmed the pivot ball with 1x thicker washer, greased the splines and the seals for the axles so they wouldn't rip on install.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00217-20110114-2109.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00219-20110114-2109.jpg

Cleaned up the clutch fork and lubed the pivot points

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00221-20110114-2110.jpg

And then put the fork and TOB in.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00226-20110114-2116.jpg

Then my attention got turned to the engine, installed the new rear main. Decided to only do the seal and not remove the whole housing it was really easy because,I found out why the old one was leaking it was pushed out of the block quite a ways.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00222-20110114-2110.jpg

checkin out my new 11.5lb chrome moly flywheel

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00224-20110114-2111.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00223-20110114-2110.jpg

installed the new xtd stage 4 clutch and pressure plate

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00228-20110115-0159.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00227-20110115-0159.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00229-20110115-0159.jpg

then there was a big mistake on my part, the bolts were too long and when I was torquing the pressure plate it would set off my torque wrench before the pressure plate was flat against the flywheel.

that should have thrown a red flag but I got to the 2nd one and it snapped off in there.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00251-20110115-1639.jpg
Drilled it out and was able to get it with an easy out.... talk about a very nerve racking time, the holes are really close to the edge of the boss there tapped into.

after i did that you would think it would be ready to go, but then I slid the trans under and was about to pick it up to slide the jack under it from the top and caught sight of this.....

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00231-20110115-0308.jpg

An oily,gritty,nasty ooze all over the side of the block and head.
It appeared to be coming from the headgasket at first, but it was coming out of the intake cam seal on the end of the head.

Nope it didn't stop there. I looked around the front of the block and it turns out the oil,grease, and grime were much more plentiful than what I had noticed previously.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00232-20110115-0309.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00233-20110115-0309.jpg

Figured I should take the header,turbo and O2 housing off to get a better look.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00239-20110115-0555.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00243-20110115-0556.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00244-20110115-0557.jpg

Alot of the oil on the front of the engine towards the timing belt side is because, the car has a universal cut to length dip stick on it and the dipstick only had felt to seal it to the tube,you can about imagine how good that worked once the heat from the header got to it.....

So I put some silicone where the sealing cap had the loop for the dipstick coming through it, glued an o-ring to the bottom of the sealing cap and put a pretty thick piece of hose in the top of the dipstick tube. All of that seemed to do pretty good but the dipstick would blow up some and oil would still come out of it so I put a small hose clamp lower down on the dipstick and hooked a carb spring running from that to the top of the dipstick. It looks crude but it works damn well, and the heat from the header didn't effect the springs tension at all suprisingly.

I have no doubt in my mind that a factory dipstick would have no problem staying in the tube on this car a failing PCV valve went unnoticed for sometime. Fortunately just took some time and it saved me $17 over a new OEM dipstick.This dipstick retention setup has been on the car for probably the last 4000 miles and Its easy to check the oil, doesnt get in the way of anything really, makes a great conversation piece and cost like 3 bucks haha.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00242-20110115-0556.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00241-20110115-0556.jpg

Then while I was pondering what to do when I remembered that the powersteering resivor had leaked and spit flid all over its lines, the frame rail, wiring harness for the alternator and the huge wiring harness that runs in the fenderwell.

I had also really wanted to keep the A/C on this car but I pushed the petcock valve on the fill nipple and nothing came out so I grabbed a refill kit I had layin around and tried it for shits n giggles. That was a no go it was leaking at the pump and somewhere in the middle of the condenser.


At this point I decided to do away with both the Power Steering and the A/C clean the engine bay and degrease/paint the engine, its no insane wire tuck or engine bay repaint but its way cleaner than it was before and easier to work on.

Heres before the cleaning started, the ac and ps were already removed and the engine is being degreased.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00254-20110115-1641.jpg

And all cleaned up,take a look at the floor in this pic and you can get an idea of the amount of oil that was on the engine. I didn't use any water to clean it, just Gunk Engine Brite a scrub brush and then rinsed it with some windex.(on the hardcore spots I used Brake/Carb cleaner).
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00260-20110116-0407.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00255-20110116-0337.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00256-20110116-0400.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00262-20110116-0408.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00259-20110116-0406.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00261-20110116-0407.jpg

Well being that the motor and engine bay were nice and clean now, I couldn't hang the super oily/grease caked turbo off of it, so I cleaned it as well inside and out it was definitely well lubricated haha.

I learned that it has a polished compressor housing which i did not know till now lol as well as a ported inlet on the exhaust housing.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00235-20110115-0335.jpg

Wiped it a little bit looking for some numbers on it, but only found a couple on the exhaust housing and when I googled them Everything said Big 16g, But Supposedly its a Evo 3 16g? If it is or isn't and someone would let me know that'd be greatly appreciated.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00236-20110115-0336.jpg

Bad PCV valve with stock crankcase evacuation= a nasty mess my intercooler looked the same way within 1500 miles of being cleaned.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00237-20110115-0336.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00246-20110115-0602.jpg

I forgot to take finished pics, but its nothin special just not all oily inside and out. Ill get a closeup of it when I take the finished pics tomorrow hopefully.
I was hesitant to port the wastegate area out due to severe cracking in there, and it was a huge mistake, When I built this 3" exhaust. It comes off the 2.5" crush bent down pipe right now but I'm planning to make a pie cut 3" one this weekend.

I had a hard time holding the exhaust up by myself and the jackstands were in use so the exhaust is rubbing on the bottom transfercase bolt a little right where it comes off the shitty downpipe.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00263-20110118-1335-1.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/allmotorpower/Tsi%20Awd/IMG00264-20110118-1335.jpg

and installed it the turbo creeps..... like 13lbs worth of creep

MBC set at 9lbs, it'll hold 9lbs till about 4500rpm then the climb starts by the time you get to 7000rpm in 2nd your at about 22lbs of boost. Basically im debating on whether or not to just go external gate just simply due to having to get a bigger WG flapper, the cracking in the housing around the WG outlet and the problems others have had with them still creeping after the porting

[notsostockgalant]

Issues currently still on the plate....


-Exhaust- Rubbing on T-case bolt, and although it sounds really good to me I need to add a Resonator,Glasspack or bullet muffler somewhere in the piping.
Its kinda loud with just 11ft of 3" piping and a 15" long ,3" inlet, 4.5" outlet canister muffler on it.
It has a Super Deep tone without any rasp/snapping/cracking/pinging/tinging or ear piercing cackle, and I would like to keep it that way just tone it down a little bit

-Cam seals are oozing a little down into the timing cover

-Starter now grinds on flywheel due to the ear breaking off of the other one, flywheel teeth look slightly worn from the old starter barely gripping when it was coming off. Flywheel has like 15 starts on it :(

-Clutch doesn't wanna disengage unless pedal is pumped???
~Brand new slave cylinder
~10000miles on the master cylinder
~FCU/Accumulator removed from slave line
~Clutch Pivot ball is shimmed
~Clutch fork had very little war to the pivot points
~Slave was gravity bled, then Pumped to bleed, then It was bled opening the valve while the pedal was being pushed down same result after all 3 bleeding attempts.
Any ideas/suggestions here would be great.

-One of the clips that holds one of the shifter cables to the bracket fell off, I made one up but need to get it properly installed. Its a pretty big issue because the way I mounted my Ignition transistor, it unplugs it because the clips broken on the plug when the cable bends up from not being mounted, thus leaving me dead in the water.

Issues that were pre existing

-Rear Toe Adjusters- the buschings on these are what caused me to go into the ditch in the first place. on my first drive since the repairs the back end was flyin round like a dogs tail. I have a homeade idea to replace/repair them gunna attempt it tomorrow.

-Front Passenger Tie Rod End- noticed the inside of the tire was wearing funny. You can feel it pretty good without the power steering.

-ISC/Base idle- Car will not idle sometimes and when it does it kinda just idles down to like 450rpm then catches its self and revs to 1300rpm, it does it slowly though not like the revving up and down real fast like most of them do.

Just want it to be back to being a reliable fun daily driver like it was when I first got it. Once the maintenance is done sucking my wallet dry then I can hopefully return to buying some more mods, and finally make this thread interesting. haha

Hopefully someones got a good idea of what the clutch issue is, because I'm at a loss. I've put a bunch of these in and the last one was on my 90 GSX that one was half ass gravity bled and it worked awesome, and since this one has to be pumped I know its a hydraulic problem rather than mechanical.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Do you have the number that you used to search what turbo it is? Can't really see it in the pic. Also, I vote that you go with an external wg off the o2 housing. I ran setup on my dsm with the 3076, and the evo3 16g and it held a perfect 20 psi all the way to 7500rpm. No creep, no taper.

[scheides]

Wiped it a little bit looking for some numbers on it, but only found a couple on the exhaust housing and when I googled them Everything said Big 16g, But Supposedly its a Evo 3 16g? If it is or isn't and someone would let me know that'd be greatly appreciated.

On the compressor cover, there are some numbers as part of the casting. Near the end, there are some stamped numbers, which help signify which turbo this is.

49178-01(40)0: 14B
49178-01(41)0: Big 16G
49178-01(42)0: Big 16G
49178-01(45)0: Evo I Big 16G
49178-01(46)0: Evo II Big 16G
49178-01(47)0: EVO III 16G

49178-01(52)0: Small 16G

However, the one you posted looks polished or something? It is definitely a 'g' wheel so its either a small, big, or evo3 16g but if its actually made by MHI or a knock-off, who knows. They usually look more like this:
http://i5.tinypic.com/20k23x3.jpg

[notsostockgalant]

ya whoever polished it did a pretty good job of taking every casting mark/ number off the compressor housing lol.

The only numbers I was able to match were on the turbine housing they were 01 and then 47 I'll take a closer peak today n get some more pics of it for ya guys.

Ya I think the external setups coming Maybe instead of upgrading my o2 housing ill just take it as an opportunity to discard this Pacesetter header, everyone says they crack to hell this one hasn't, but it is made out of pretty thin material melted all the blades off my ac fan when i had it and started to curl the blades on the factory primary fan as well lol.

All I care is that it'll pull to redline at 17lbs like it was before it got taken apart, at least until I get the rest of my supporting mods done.

This 9lbs till 4500 then creeping to 22lbs is getting sort of old especially if I forget its like that and get it up in revs in 3rd I can get some god ol' fuel cut whiplash haha

[95tsi]

you can try to adjust the clutch pedal itself.

if it works while pumping it up your leaking pressure somewhere. I'd really check you have no leaks and ALL the air out of the system.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/clutch_adj_files/Clutch2.jpg you can spin the rod to lengthen or shorten to where it works. might help a lil bit.

[goodhart]

That compressor wheel looks scary. Engine bay looks a lot better though!

What are you tuned with/for? E85 or pump?

I thought guys with creep issues sometimes just turned up the boost on their mbc so the car would get to that boost level, then not go any higher? lol

Ex: car is set to 14psi, creeps to 22, so they set it to 22, then just let it taper? That make any sense?

Maybe try getting a tubular o2 housing or porting it if you don't want to risk porting the cracked turbine housing.

[notsostockgalant]

Well the cars down again put in my new starter last thursday and it worked good but still sounded funky.
Well this afternoon it decided that it wanted to engage the flywheel but just grind on it instead of spinning it.
So my 1 week old flywheel is fucked and the trans is coming out tomorrow night.
I ended up getting a used fidanza from a buddy. As much as I really don't wanna run another fidanza theres not really a choice, since I'm out of money and I have a small DSM part tab running with him lol.

Just have to decide if the friction surface is within spec to be used. If it is I'll attempt to do a flywheel swap after work, after researching clutch swaps most people claim to be able to do it all said and done in about 3hrs, Hopefully if nothing breaks or anything else is found wrong, It'll be back on the road tomorrow night.

you can try to adjust the clutch pedal itself.

if it works while pumping it up your leaking pressure somewhere. I'd really check you have no leaks and ALL the air out of the system.

http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/clutch_adj_files/Clutch2.jpg you can spin the rod to lengthen or shorten to where it works. might help a lil bit.

Ya The clutch disengagement issue definitely needs to be solved. I think some air is stuck in the slave itself somehow and its not coming out when the clutch is bled, The clutch wouldn't disengage at all tonight on the way home no matter if I pumped it or anything. This was a really big problem especially since I couldn't let the car die with the starter unable to grab the flywheel and me not being able to push start the car on ice alone.

That compressor wheel looks scary. Engine bay looks a lot better though!

What are you tuned with/for? E85 or pump?

I thought guys with creep issues sometimes just turned up the boost on their mbc so the car would get to that boost level, then not go any higher? lol

Ex: car is set to 14psi, creeps to 22, so they set it to 22, then just let it taper? That make any sense?

Maybe try getting a tubular o2 housing or porting it if you don't want to risk porting the cracked turbine housing.


After looking at the pic the compressor wheel does like like its pretty fucked up lol its just oil though, I wish i would have taken more pics of it all clean.

The cars tuned by me on a SAFC with just pump for now. Its a very safe tune though since I was using a narrow band/ O2 voltage monitoring.
Before the "CREEP" issues I was running 17lbs on the stock injectors safely.
This thing actually ripped pretty good for being on only 17lbs., It feels faster than my old 2g with a 2.3 and 50trim on 10lbs although that one was untuned.

My buddy said the same thing about the boost creep,"just get some bigger injectors and weld the wastegate shut" hahah, but I would like to have the peace of mind of some L19s and a Permatorque before the boost goes any higher.


I'm still debating on which route to take with that, Nice header with external wg or a tubular o2 with an external wg. Maybe ill just port the living hell out of the turbine housing and hope it doesn't crack any further or get another housing from my buddy. I had planned on upgrading turbos after i get done with my supporting mods/maintence.

[95tsi]

The cars tuned by me on a SAFC with just pump for now. Its a very safe tune though since I was using a narrow band/ O2 voltage monitoring.



be careful. narrow band inst the greatest so just take it easy and not push it.