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scheides
05-10-2009, 08:32 PM
I picked up a new FMIC for my evo last week and wasn't prepared to pay the $289 buschur charges for the LICP that is needed for this specific FMIC. Not sure if its due to the size or what, but the inlet is not in the standard position. I had some extra aluminum piping from a project on my brother's 1G, and everything looked like it would be pretty easy to fit together and cut for my needs.

Just thought I'd document this in case anyone else is interested.

Parts List:
1x Buschur Race FMIC :) retail $799
1x 2.5" aluminum pipe 180° bend w/ 6" legs (Vibrant Part # 2867) (free)
1x Silicone Reducing Elbow - 45 degrees (#ASRE45-X from boostcontroller.com) $38
3x 2.5" t-bolt clamps (#288 - boostcontroller.com) $4/each
1x 1.8" t-bolt clamp (fits stock oulet pipe perfectly!) (#225 - boostcontroller.com) $4

First, some FMIC pics! BR Deluxe on top, new 'race' core on bottom.
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0316.sized.jpg

Kinda makes the old one look small. When I bought it, it was the biggest one you could get!
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0320.sized.jpg

Now, mocking up the LICP:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0322.sized.jpg

The plan is to cut along the black line:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0325.sized.jpg

Then, a second piece to make the long leg end over to the turbo outlet pipe:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0326.sized.jpg

(careful, aluminum crushes easily!)

This was the original plan:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0328.sized.jpg

But then, as I looked at it, a second option presented itself. The coupler from boostcontroller.com was much longer than I had anticipated, and I had planned on just cutting it to size. However, check this out:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0327.sized.jpg

It fit perfect, I could not have planned it better. I had planned on getting that extension pipe welded onto the long leg of the j-pipe, or simply running a coupler in the middle of the straight section. With as well as this fit, the idea of not having to deal with getting the thing welded (i.e. more $$) or more couplers (meh) started to look not so hot. That, coupled with the fact that every welder I talked to didn't really want to weld this cheap piping, which helped me make up my decision.

Fully mocked up:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0335.sized.jpg

Test fit w/ bumper:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0340.sized.jpg

Side note. Buschur Race FMIC can fit behind the stock crash bar with ZERO trimming. I bent one bracked on the crash bar flat and that was it. I put some 5mm spacers between the crash bar and the frame. If you have time, get some extra long bolts from your local hardware store for this, but otherwise I got the stock ones to fit with some fiddling.

I cut up a silicone coupler and stuck it between the crash bar and the FMIC to avoid rattling or rubbing. This fit without a problem:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0338.sized.jpg

Final LICP parts. DB Performance in Rogers, MN has a bead roller, and they rolled beads into this J pipe for me.
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0346.sized.jpg

Done and done:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0399.sized.jpg

http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0400.sized.jpg

http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0401.sized.jpg

I went ahead and put my stock FMIC in place to see how this design would work. Looks like it should fit no problem, just cut the J-pipe a little different, and it wil fit in the couplers a little more level than with my buschur race FMIC:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0402.sized.jpg

http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0403.sized.jpg

Done:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evo-buschur-race-fmic/IMG_0350.sized.jpg

The next day I made 394whp on a dyno dynamics with my BBK and this new setup. It seems to work well :D The stock outlet pipe is 1.8", then transitions to 2", then the 45° bend, then immediately opens up to 2.5". I might be contacting boostcontroller.com to see if they would make a custom coupler that has the 45° in 2.5" instead of the 2" section. Other than that, I'm very happy with this setup!

goodhart
05-10-2009, 09:15 PM
How close is that long silicone coupler to the downpipe? I would try putting some heat wrap on the downpipe, to prevent it from damaging the coupler maybe?

GsXtUrBo98
05-10-2009, 09:21 PM
Lookin good!

rose0529
05-10-2009, 09:28 PM
looks really good! Glad to see you made some good powa finally!!!

Kracka
05-10-2009, 09:30 PM
I'm glad the LICP came together so easily!

TkrPerformance
05-10-2009, 09:54 PM
looks really good. a lot better than buying to for a ton of money for a simple pipe

scheides
05-10-2009, 10:15 PM
How close is that long silicone coupler to the downpipe? I would try putting some heat wrap on the downpipe, to prevent it from damaging the coupler maybe?

I kinda thought the same thing, but it was no different than before; the LICP goes right past the downpipe. If it ever is an issue, I'll address it.

4g63tcrazy
05-10-2009, 10:16 PM
Very sexy. Thought I noticed something a little more shiny behind you're grill. So was the old IC the cause of you loosing power?

scheides
05-10-2009, 10:21 PM
To be honest, I'm not really sure. I have hardly driven the car with the new FMIC on, but it does feel good!

Hughes thinks it was actually the new driveshaft bushings he helped me install a few weeks back, while I'm convinced it was the new transmission fluid (kidding). :P

The car is still pushing coolant under high boost, I'll post more info as I figure it out :)

95talonracer
05-11-2009, 08:37 AM
Didn't you just reciently do a new HG?