Clutch Low Engagement(yea, I know it's a DSM)

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

Alright. I'm stumped cause this is just dumb after a week's worth of BS and having absolutely every dsm problem go wrong in straight swapping a motor.

Clutch disengages on the floor. Yea yea, i know what you're thinking, adjust clutch pedal, bleed slave, blah blah. Well I've done all that. Thing is, nothing in the clutch setup changed, fluid was not even lost when we pull the slave cylinder off. We used the same exact pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disc. The ONLY thing we changed was the throw out bearing to a new ACT one. I am thinking for some reason the new TOB is slightly shorter causing this throw problem. Any other ideas? The clutch pedal use to be 3-4 inches off the floor, now it is about .5 inch off the floor with pedal adjustment all the way out.

Does anyone know the "true" proper way to bleed a clutch?
vaccuum line in brake fluid reservoir from slave cylinder to prevent air from being sucked back in,
clutch adjustment backed all the way in,
cap of master cyl off or on?
what else? I'm open to hearing everything anyone has to say to help out.

[EclipseGST]

Replace the clutch fork? I had this same issue and I dicked around with it for months until I replaced everything and the clutch fork was my issue. I laid it next to a brand new OEM one and you could see the old one was bent. Now I always replace it.

Its always easier to have 2-3 people when bleeding the clutch. Try to get it the best you can, if that doesnt work I would look into other things. See if the clutch fork is making its "full throw" by watching it while someone pushes the clutch pedal.

[scheides]

Yup, I'd say the clutch fork got bent somehow. Try bleeding the clutch line to be sure...actually, double check the hard sections of the line and make sure it didn't get kinked somewhere?

Then bleed it. crack open bleeder as someone is slowly pushing down on the clutch pedal, then close it before they hit the floor. Keep the cap off the reservoir, and topped all the way up if you can (the best thing to do is have one of those upside down, auto-fill bottles so it stays full as you keep bleeding).

Positive the clutch didn't get damaged as you re-installed the tranny? smashed input shaft into one of the fingers or something?

[x1genx]

Pumping the clutch to build line pressure does the trick to disengage the car out/into gear. It actually is drivable when this is done..

..which leads me to believe the fork and plate are fine...

And like cher said, nothing was swapped or changed. The slave was bled for a good half hour. The car was fine before. Now after..wah wah, this new problem occurs.

We will slow bleed the clutch this weekend, loosening the bleeder valve as someone pushes the pedal to the floor slowly...maybe this will do the trick.

I think we have the right input and ideas for process of elimination.
I am just really sick of putting this car together in 10 degree (or colder) weather.

thanks for the input.

[desolate]

If pumping builds the pressure, then it would probably be worn out cylinders master or slave.

[crazy_skier]

I had the same issue awhile back and it ended up being the clutch fork, except mine even broke one of the fingers off. If that happened you can tell by relieving the slave cylinder pressure from the fork, but if its just bent i dont think you can. Oh and if I remember correctly act started using mitsu tob's.

[1QUICK4]

Oh and if I remember correctly act started using mitsu tob's.


Nope, side by side you can see the difference. I don't think it's a TOB issue though.

Possibly your clutch master.

[joesushi]

Had this problem all the time and i always got it fixed. IF: There are no bubbles in the system. The pivot ball has been shimmed. the flywheel is stepped properly. And everything you can think of has been done then i would seriously recommend extending the threaded master cylinder rod. On all three of my 1g's, this fixed my problem. Cut about 1/4-3/8'' of the threaded end off and have about a 1/2'' of some other bolt with the same thread welded on. Then reinstall and you should have instant engagement at the top. You are welcome to see it working on my bro's talon anytime.

[blackrosenova400]

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/stpg.php?page_id=transmission_videos&osCsid=1bab6cb0b7dfb37b9faa65809f6f8375

That should help ya out.

[At-Least-It's-An-Evo]

Had this problem all the time and i always got it fixed. IF: There are no bubbles in the system. The pivot ball has been shimmed. the flywheel is stepped properly. And everything you can think of has been done then i would seriously recommend extending the threaded master cylinder rod. On all three of my 1g's, this fixed my problem. Cut about 1/4-3/8'' of the threaded end off and have about a 1/2'' of some other bolt with the same thread welded on. Then reinstall and you should have instant engagement at the top. You are welcome to see it working on my bro's talon anytime.

Yea, I ended up welding a nut on 4 years ago on my maroon 1g. It worked great.