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View Full Version : Clutch Low Engagement(yea, I know it's a DSM)


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scheides
02-04-2009, 09:08 AM
If pumping builds the pressure, then it would probably be worn out cylinders master or slave.

+1 absolutely. If you can pump it and solve the problem, it's a cyl problem. Replace the slave first, it's the most likely to fail. If that doesn't fix it, then do the master. Do both if you wanna *ghasp* do some preventative maintenance!

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
02-04-2009, 10:53 AM
Do both if you wanna *ghasp* do some preventative maintenance!

yea right. if it aint broke, dont fix it! So we may just fix it with a new car purchase anyways, haha.

iceminion
02-04-2009, 10:57 AM
Install new master and slave cylinders...but it wont fix it.

I run synthetic fluid (purple looks cool) (will not soak up water)

You will most likely need to extend the master rod...might want to take care of this before you install the new one....will save you time later...you only need to extend it a total of 1/2 inch.

You can have any shop do this

The thread you will need is m8x1.25

cut off 1.5 inches, and weld on 2 inches of thread.

Gotta love freaken 1G's setup.

Remember the extended SLAVE rod doesnt do anything to solve the problem.

The problem is there is not enough fluid being pumped through the master slave cylinder by the defective and failing design of the 1G clutch setup.

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
02-04-2009, 11:21 AM
Install new master and slave cylinders...but it wont fix it.

I run synthetic fluid (purple looks cool) (will not soak up water)

You will most likely need to extend the master rod...might want to take care of this before you install the new one....will save you time later...you only need to extend it a total of 1/2 inch.

You can have any shop do this

The thread you will need is m8x1.25

cut off 1.5 inches, and weld on 2 inches of thread.

Gotta love freaken 1G's setup.

Remember the extended SLAVE rod doesnt do anything to solve the problem.

The problem is there is not enough fluid being pumped through the master slave cylinder by the defective and failing design of the 1G clutch setup.

huh? what are you trying to say? to weld the nut behind the master cyl rod? That's a mega band-aid I'm not gonna do unless I absolutely have to(like I have before).

The plan is to:

1)replace/check slave cyl. get an extended rod
2)replace/check Master cyl.
3)take trans off, new fork, ball, shim ball
then band-aid with
4)weld nut on bracket for master cyl rod.
5)pull pedal assembly and weld everything solid w/ new bushings.

anyone have anything besides those?

iceminion
02-04-2009, 01:34 PM
The issue you are having is because not enough fluid is reaching the slave cylinder.

So....

anything you modify/work on down the line, at the slave, is not going to resolve your issue

You need to extend your MASTER rod, it is not a bandaid fix, it is a badass fix.

Every car that my brother and I have done this to turns out great.

Kyle at modern does this too, he recommeded that we do this also.

Good luck.

scheides
02-04-2009, 02:55 PM
...but it wont fix it.




LOL yes don't bother any of the cheap/simple fixes, do the most elaborate one....:P

I have money on the slave.

iceminion
02-04-2009, 03:26 PM
LOL yes don't bother any of the cheap/simple fixes, do the most elaborate one....:P

I have money on the slave.

just letting him know that after spending the money at the dealership for the new master and slave cylinders (for both my DSM's) that I was in the same boat....

It is very important to replace 15 year old rubber seals....but chances are that will not resolve the compromised geometry of the flexing firewall and the clutch pedal assembly.

my money is on extending the master.

iceminion
02-04-2009, 03:37 PM
Double-Post

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
02-04-2009, 03:47 PM
just letting him know that after spending the money at the dealership for the new master and slave cylinders (for both my DSM's) that I was in the same boat....

It is very important to replace 15 year old rubber seals....but chances are that will not resolve the compromised geometry of the flexing firewall and the clutch pedal assembly.

my money is on extending the master.

Alright, maybe I didn't post it up there^^^ but absolutely nothing changed fluid-pressure-wise during this engine swap. The lines were never removed, pressure was never changed (UNTIL we found out the engagement had drastically gone down after the engine swap/install. The pedal had plenty of engagement beforehand so it is making me believe it is something after the slave. We did bleed it just because of the fact that something may have gotten crushed or something, but thats why I ended up where I am.

And yes, it IS technically a band-aid fix but I'm not gonna argue with you on that.

Anyhow, this thread is going nowhere. The most useful post was the one with the link to Jacks Transmissions about the proper way to adjust your clutch. I knew something about it, just wasn't sure on exactly how.

Thanks for the reply guys. This can be closed.