View Full Version : Roll Bar/Cage
Halon
01-07-2009, 09:06 AM
My current setup "should" be able to go quite a bit quicker then 11.49. I really don't think I'd enjoy driving all the way to one of these tracks, just to get kicked out right away.
So I've been contemplating putting in a 5-point Roll Bar (with swing out)which should apparently allow me to go as fast as 10.00 according to the 2008 Rulebook I have, and also on this link:
http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
I went shopping around online, and all the pre-made kits appear to all be 8-point cages. I honestly do not see myself going any faster than 10.00, and the less bars/pipes I have to put in the interior, the better. Does anyone know of any pre-made 5-point kits? Does anyone know any good local places that could install this, or even just make one if there are no premade kits? I'd more then likely just go with a mild steel setup.
On other question regarding swingouts. Can swingouts only "swing", or is it legal to have them actually be completely removable and still be legal? That way I could just have it removed all the time for regular driving, and then just install it when I go to the track.
Swifty1638
01-07-2009, 09:47 AM
As far as I know, a properly installed swingout can be fully removed, and put in for track purposes, as it was on joshs's stealth. I just didn't opt for them.
Why not just purchase the main hoop bend, and then some straight piping? Also, don't forget you need the 6x6 plates to weld to the car floor. Primo Performance did my cage, but I also had gotten a pre-fabbed kit from S+W racecars.
-A. Swift
Halon
01-07-2009, 10:52 AM
Where can I purchase just the main hoop bend? All the DSM specific ones I've found have 2 extra legs coming off them to meet 8-point criteria which I don't need/want.
How is the fitment of your pre-fabbed kit? I really would like mine to hug the interior of the car as much as possible to keep it's noticablitily and interference to a minnimum.
I understand the need for 6x6 plates, but I also understand they do NOT need to be welded.
Shane@DBPerformance
01-07-2009, 11:22 AM
IHRA used to require a 6-point cage at 11.49 versus the 5-point for NHRA, but I don't know if they changed it in the last few years and CFR switched from IHRA to NHRA. You could just not weld in those extra 2 legs, most the kits I see require welding of those on. I don't think they are for any rules, just for chassis stiffening, since the next step up in rules requires a full cage with halo. A full cage does use those 2 points, and you could convert to a full cage, but you can also run smaller diameter piping when doing a full cage versus a roll bar to save weight.
Halon
01-07-2009, 12:36 PM
So would a 6 point cage be just the same as the 5 point, but with a side bar on the passenger side as well? I guess all I want is to be able to run in the 10's at the tracks, but no competitions, just for fun. Who's guide would be the best to follow? I was going off NHRA but apparently there are others. What should I be going off of to make sure I'm not going to get booted.
I could simply just not weld those other 2 legs, but I'd rather just not have them at all. Simply put, for me the less piping in the car the better.
I'd also like to retain as much of the interior as I can. Meaning I'd still like the back seats to be there. Anyone have any pics of anyone with a cage and still has an interior?
And again, anyone recommend any good local shops that could do this, and or bend their own cage for my car so it would fit better then these cookie cutter ones?
Shane@DBPerformance
01-07-2009, 01:16 PM
I could simply just not weld those other 2 legs, but I'd rather just not have them at all. Simply put, for me the less piping in the car the better.
Don't weld those 2 bars to the main hoop then.
Yea, a 6-point is just with a side bar for the passenger side.
Richard has done some nice cages in full interior cars. http://user1358701.sites.myregisteredsite.com/id5.html
One problem with the rules though, if enforced, is that you are supposed to have a full roll cage at 135mph or faster. 135mph for an automatic, slicked, transbraked, perfectly geared, tubed old V8 might be in the 9s. While for most manual tranny imports it's in the 10s-11s.
TkrPerformance
01-07-2009, 02:21 PM
criags old cage in his talon was a pre bent one it fit great I just put it in for him. It was a 8pt cage. he got it at his work and we do have a mitsu account there to get a good discount on parts.
Super Bleeder!!
01-07-2009, 02:23 PM
Cages ruin an otherwise nice street car.
C3L1CA
01-07-2009, 03:11 PM
Don't weld those 2 bars to the main hoop then.
Yea, a 6-point is just with a side bar for the passenger side.
Richard has done some nice cages in full interior cars. http://user1358701.sites.myregisteredsite.com/id5.html
One problem with the rules though, if enforced, is that you are supposed to have a full roll cage at 135mph or faster. 135mph for an automatic, slicked, transbraked, perfectly geared, tubed old V8 might be in the 9s. While for most manual tranny imports it's in the 10s-11s.
Yep don't forget about the trap speed, I don't know if you'd ever dip into the 9's but the trap speed is a big factor to think about.
I'd also check out mean street, I'd guess they'd be as cheap if not cheaper than a pre bent cage. They quoted me 800ish for an 8pt in moly and TNT quoted me 1ksih for an 8pt in moly.
Do you plan on running at only rock falls? At cedar from my experience they're pretty lenient on the rules and I'd feel pretty safe saying you wouldn't need a cage.
Shane@DBPerformance
01-07-2009, 03:25 PM
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