AWD dsm, rear wheel stuck...

[cmspaz]

The last time I had to compress a caliper, I used a breaker bar for leverage, and that worked fine, but it just took time.

[JET]

Yeah, sounds like a bad caliper. I seriously doubt the rear wheel bearing is bad, they start groaning and grinding before they go.

[iceminion]

1G rear wheel bearings are designed very well, I have never even heard of one going bad, front wheel bearing failures are more common, that is just because people don't torque the axle nuts properly, which results in failure.

I personally HATE the 1G rear brake setup, ideally I would get two small calipers, one for the normal brake, another for e-brake, this would involve a hydraulic e-brake, but who cares :) re-maned stockers for now.

[Goat Blower]

I'm looking forward to replacing my rear brakes with something a lot better, like EVO calipers all around. :-)

[john]

Update: The other day I took it all apart and tested the rear caliper by 1) pressing the brake pedal, and 2) turning the piston back in.

The piston moved out and it did screw back in so I am going to give it a try. I started the car, fired right up but had an oil leak by the front case (above/near oil filter sender??).

It was my brother's car and he said it wasn't like that before so I will have to check it over.

As far as the brakes go, if I continue to have problems I will just replace the caliper.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

The last time I had to compress a caliper, I used a breaker bar for leverage, and that worked fine, but it just took time.
You can't do that on 1g rear brakes. The ebake compresses the piston in the caliper manually, so you need to screw it back in which means unless you can manage it with a screwdriver, you need a special tool to do it.

[john]

You can't do that on 1g rear brakes. The ebake compresses the piston in the caliper manually, so you need to screw it back in which means unless you can manage it with a screwdriver, you need a special tool to do it.

I used a needle nose pliers to screw it back in.

[Febo]

If it gives you problems again sometims the guide pins are just rusted and corroded to hell and back. Some grease tends to make the brakes work again.

[john]

Ok, Update. Last time I had it apart I took the caliper off, compressed the piston, disconnected the E-brake cable, and put it back together. Pressed the brake a bit, car wouldn't roll again.

Fast forward a half a year, I need to move the car. Take the brake apart, remove the pads, car rolls back and out of the garage no prob. Go to push the car forward and nothing. Take the caliper off, still nothing. Car rolls backwards fine however.

We moved it back several time and pushed hard forward and the tire would lockup and skid on the pavement. finally the thing broke loose and seems to roll fine (for now). No plans of driving it now but any idea what the issue was? I want to fix this before I have it next time.

Whatever it was, the car could drive with the wheel locked up and not break loose. Figured that would stop any possible rust issue but maybe not.

Thanks,
John

[slowbubblecar]

That car was a PITA to move. Should have just fired it up and drove it on the trailer.