View Full Version : Engine Oil
C3L1CA
07-15-2010, 11:36 AM
I've always run M1 10w-30 in my car and I've been pretty lucky. Motor has around 10k since the stock rebuilt and has usually been run at around 450-480awhp mark at DB. It seen as high as 597 for one nitrous pull and when I usually spray I would think it should be around that 550awhp mark at DB. I've been lucky and will switch to a heavier weight if I ever have any money to build a motor.
Halon
07-15-2010, 01:53 PM
My understanding is OEM Mtisu = WIX = Napa Gold.
TALON:
Napa Gold Filters (I run an RX-7 filter)
I usually run either 10W-40 or 15W-40. I usually run whatever synthetic is on sale, with the exception of M1 (I never run it because of lifter tick issues I've heard of). I have experimented with some diesel oils too like Rotella, and have nothing negative to say.
I change the oil usually right in the spring, then sometime mid/late summer, and that's usually it. Simply because it doesn't get driven in the winter, but it does see some abuse during the summer.
ENVOY/DD's:
Walmart Supertech Filter
Walmart Supertech Conventional 10W-30. Great bang for the buck, for a vehicle that's simply a DD and doesn't see a lot of abuse.
Oil Change is done appx every 5-7k miles as 3k is way too soon.
Kracka
07-15-2010, 01:55 PM
My understanding is OEM Mtisu = WIX = Napa Gold.
I doubt this is true since Mitsu filters are made in Japan. WIX does manufacture Napa's filters though. One feature that I really like about the Mitsu filters is they are pregreased then sealed with plastic. I am basing my info off the Evo filters though and it is possible the DSM/other filters are from elsewhere. For example, the only Honda filters made in Japan anymore are the S2k filters, the rest are Fram junk. Subaru recently switched from Japanese made to Fram junk too.
mlomker
07-15-2010, 02:04 PM
I change the oil usually right in the spring, then sometime mid/late summer, and that's usually it. Simply because it doesn't get driven in the winter, but it does see some abuse during the summer.
I was planning on the same schedule for the Evo.
What's your guys' opinion on putting synthetic in a higher mileage motor? Is the fear of doing that real or imagined? I ask because Amsoil advertises their 0w30 as having a 17,500 mile change interval on motors with more than 100k miles on it. Throwing that in my beater and changing it once per year is kind of appealing.
Kracka
07-15-2010, 02:07 PM
Any major synthetic is good for a year and can do 15-20k miles in a "normal" car during "normal" driving as long as you use quality gas a good filter (probably smart to chance the filter at the halfway point though). Purolator actually touts the high contaminant capacity of their PureOne gold filter ($4 at Fleet Farm; this is the great filter I mentioned earlier).
You can switch to synthetic whenever you want, but there is a chance you'll burn more oil and/or the detergents in it can clean away sludge that's otherwise plugging leaky gaskets. For a beater, I'd do exactly what Brandon does; Supertech oil/filter every 5-7k miles.
Super Bleeder!!
12-21-2010, 06:52 PM
found this randomly while perusing FP's site.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Mot or%20Oil.pdf
excellent info, especially in the tables!
Halon
12-21-2010, 08:10 PM
That's an interesting read. I've poured in zinc/phos additives before into my oils on my Talon before. I'd usually run some cheap synthetic, or the occasional "diesel" oil, and would sometimes pour in a bottle of that additive. I wonder if those over the counter additives really make a real difference though?
goodhart
12-21-2010, 11:17 PM
I used that exact document when choosing oil to run in the Evo. I ended up choosing Amsoil 10w30 Dominator. With a WIX filter of course
cmspaz
12-21-2010, 11:30 PM
found this randomly while perusing FP's site.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Mot or%20Oil.pdf
excellent info, especially in the tables!
The only PDF I have ever read that is on letterhead, starts with "official announcement", and then calls the target audience "MFr's" before the third paragraph. :D
FattyBoomBatty
12-22-2010, 12:06 AM
Nice to see what people use in various applications. I went about 8k on regular 5w-30 in my kia beater. When I changed it recently, it vibrated less. lol. I won't go that long before the next change, or the car will be sold, who knows.
In the quest, I now use 20w-50 conventional because I got a lot of beef swinging around in there and I don't want to leave a lot of hard work and money in the hands of some thinner oils. And why not? It's a "race" car anyway. And I don't want to use synthetic.
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