View Full Version : Engine Oil
asshanson
05-19-2009, 08:56 AM
I wish there was info on the non-synthetics like that. Also wish it included info on the oil after being run the equivalent of 5k miles or something. But a good read though.
Kracka
06-10-2009, 03:04 PM
I found some good info on Mobil's website, including this:
Question:
Oil Film Strength of Mobil 1 Compared with Royal Purple
Does Mobil 1 have less oil film strength than Royal Purple? I have seen many times the friction test of oils using the machine that test the oil film, test result shows that Royal Purple has more friction protection that Mobil 1 does, seeing these results makes me think that Mobil 1 is lacking some benefits, therefore Royal Purple has the better protection of all.
-- Guillermo Tristani, Miami, OR
Answer:
There are certain oils in the market today that use EP (extreme pressure) additives in their engine oil that are really designed for gear oils and not engine oils. Extreme pressure additives are typically not used in engine oils for a number of reasons but the most important is because they can cause engine corrosion over time. The rigs being used in these demonstrations are primarily designed for industrial applications like gear oils where extreme pressure is an important performance feature you need. These demonstration rigs have very little to do with modern engines and that is the reason that market leading oils in the industry perform poorly in these tests.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Oil_Film_Strength.aspx
Lots of other good answers on there too if you have time to read through it all.
95talonracer
06-10-2009, 08:23 PM
Amsoil!
stickyphoenix
06-16-2009, 11:14 PM
I'm putting Rotella in Emma's ass next oil change. conventional, since that's all she's known.
goodhart
06-25-2009, 06:58 PM
Just heard about this stuff on the TV show Cut Chop Rebuild today, kinda wonder if it's any good?
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil-rh.html
Kracka
06-25-2009, 07:55 PM
I don't trust anything from Royal Purple. If you want a good engine break-in oil use any of the conventional high mileage oils since they contain much more moly than traditional oil. Some manufacturers (Honda for example) add extra moly to the factory fill oil.
stikx
05-27-2010, 02:04 PM
Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?
I'm seeing a lot of people use it in their built motors, especially the 20 W 50. its a lot cheaper than amsoil race oil and more available.
Kracka
05-27-2010, 02:07 PM
Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?
I'm seeing a lot of people use it in their built motors, especially the 20 W 50. its a lot cheaper than amsoil race oil and more available.
There is nothing special about Pennsylvania crude if you ask me; all the base stocks are refined so heavily it doesn't matter in the end. You'll find the main differences between oils comes down to the additive package, not the actual petroleum. If you're looking for a quality conventional there are cheaper alternatives out there.
C89ZX7R
05-30-2010, 05:17 PM
***Do NOT use Rotella T6 if you have Cat Converters on the car*** T6 has a high level of Zinc which will destroy the converter!
Shane@DBPerformance
05-30-2010, 07:03 PM
Do not run Mobile 1 5w30, if you are making more than stock HP and don't want to spin a rod bearing or put a rod through your block. I personally wouldn't run any brand 5w30 or any Mobile 1 anymore. 4G63s are a bit more forgiving than some motors when it comes to oil, but I recommend most people run at least a 10w40 in the Summer.
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