Gravy
10-08-2007, 10:40 AM
Didn't you guys know they make 4.3. kits for the 3.0? Gees, all you need is a new crank, pistons, heads new transmission and block. It's not hard.
:signs066:
runninW.O.T.
10-08-2007, 05:46 PM
No i am pretty sure that he got it out of a montero sport
runninW.O.T.
10-08-2007, 06:02 PM
This totally turned into a complete bullshit post but that's ok. Let fly.
We are still going to build the car as it is stitting in the shops lot and the motor is in the shop on a engine stand ready to go. Any real input anyone has would be cool!
Gravy
10-09-2007, 12:30 AM
No i am pretty sure that he got it out of a montero sport
lol, i'm just playin. I actually thought of taking a 2.2 s-10 and dropping in an AWD GSX drivetrain and motor. Would have kept me busy for the better part of a decade getting it all in, working and finished the way i work. Imagine that engine bay with so much extra room...
Give us an idea of the setup and we can let you know if it is decent or if you need to make any changes. What shop is it at?
tpunx99GSX
10-09-2007, 03:50 PM
-2 seconds is easy when you race in reverse.
Joe
DAMN YOU! Im never gonna live that down.
RunninWOT how about you get into the 14s first. If all you know how to do is turn a wrench, and your buddy can only get 411 out of a stealth, good luck making the 1200+ hp needed to get into the 6s.
You could always put in 6 4G63 blocks, lace them all together, and even stock they would have 1200, but then again you may run into a weight issue. Fuck it, go buy a honduh. We dont need any more of these GSXs dying.
runninW.O.T.
10-09-2007, 04:26 PM
Give us an idea of the setup and we can let you know if it is decent or if you need to make any changes. What shop is it at?
I had a parts list and general layout of what we were looking at doing laying around here some where but i think it got trashed. I will have to get a new one next time I head to the shop to get started. Prolly after this weekens.
The shop is in Swanville. 15 min west and a hair south of Little Falls!
As far as what it will do. Like I said I think 9's would be realistic. That doesn't really matter though. It should be pretty interesting and fun just to get it rolling!
What kind of parts are in the engine? 2.4, 2.3 or 2.0? Any idea what turbo?
Pushit2.0
10-10-2007, 11:44 AM
If you want to go fast in a dsm here is what you need to do.
-Strip the car down to nothing, and I meen nothing, weight will be the thing that slows you down and breaks everything.
-Install the proper safty equipment, if you crash this thing at a rate of speed it would be better to get out and say dam then to be injured or worse, full roll cage, 8 point at least(kits are called 10points) and have it certified.
-suspension and tires, a good coil over set up(ksports) and good DRs or full slicks, this will help with ETs and if setup right should save the drivetrain also.
-A good tranny, auto or shep stage 4, you can have the lights car in the world and make the most power ever, but if you can not shift you are going to be slow.
-proper tuning, EMS or similar for a series power setup and pay someone to tune your setup, this will save you money and headaches in the longrun.
-ignition, up grade this, DIS2 or COP
-Fuel sytem, install the biggest fuel system you can afford. At the minum twin Bosch 044 pumps or bigger, 4 1600s min, fuel cell.
-a good SMIM, JMfab, Magnus, AMS, Forrester, etc. Get a nice sized TB, not to big but not to small, the Q45 his big but works.
-clutch, get somthing that will hold, and no a ACT 2600 will not work.
-turbo size, this will come down to how much power you want to make and how fast you realy want to go. Look at power band, what your motor can handle for power, same with the clutch, tranny, axels, Tcase, and you as a driver. You do not need a GT4202 to run a 9, just look at DSM times.org, I would say start with a big T4, 67 GTQ, if that is not enough just upgrade, turbos are cheap if you stay away from BB, and sell your old turbo. Do not look away from bigger A/R housings this will define your power band, the wheels size(weight/size of the wheels) is your total power possible and most of your lag.
-Motor, if you want to rev build a high compression 2.0, if you want drivetrain shattering torque build a 2.4, if you want to burn up some pistons build a 2.3, if you build cars on paper build a 2.1 or a 2.7. If you are only looking for 9s just copy a proven setup, to run 9s there is no reason to re-invent the wheel. Head studs if you can get some L-19 head studs go for it, or if ARPs are the only option just plan to replace the head gasket every now and then. Cams, buy the crower 415s or 288s if you are going to rev high, if you are looking hte 2.4 route buy a cam sized for that power band, FP/comp(thats who fp uses I think) make a good line of cams also some are sized more the 2.4 motor size. 1mm over SS valves and a good port job will go along way, its easy to go to far with a DSM head. Springs/retainers just get a set that matches the cam card.
-intercooler setup, this depends on fuel type used, boost, etc, a good bar/plate core intercooler(PTE or similar) with or with out custom endtanks will get the job done, just watch your AITs and you will be fine.
-Fuel used, most DSM setups do not need c-16, they might make more power on E85 or E98 or 110 leaded. But for a bigger setup like the one I am talking about I would say c-16, run 35 or so psi and get the car/chassie/drive setup and working together then look at the holes in the setup, more power, more traction, more money, more what ever.
-Dyno time, do not try to street tune, that is the worst thing you could do, track tune or dyno tune, there are a few awd dynos localy and to make sure your setup is running like a top, just pay someone to tune it, people dump who knows how much in the rest of the setup but will not put the money into the tuning, I do not understand.
~John
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