View Full Version : New Jay's Alt Relocationkit
DBMajik
03-28-2007, 02:28 PM
Can someone buy this newb a clue? Jay has some very nice products and doesn't make crap. So he has some blinging dump tubes, who else even offers them?
Hey, if you want to use home depot parts on your car, that's your perogative. Obviously not mine.
rst95eclipse
03-28-2007, 03:12 PM
See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.
I'm not a fuckin' idiot. You obviously didn't read my post right. Additionally, you must not have a clue as to how the belt system works on a 4g63. The alternator and water pump are ran off the same belt. If you take away the alternator, you don't have a tensioner for that belt and it must be shortened. Otherwise, you'll have to rig up a separate tensioner that can run that huge belt (which doesn't need to be that long).
As for the dump tube, I've seen worse. At least it's being dumped elsewhere, besides the engine bay. You can always make your own flange or grind off the flames.
Hey, if you want to use home depot parts on your car, that's your perogative. Obviously not mine.
How do you expect to make a universal kit without a flex pipe? It is also 304SS, not aluminum from Home Depot. Besides, we aren't even talking about the dump tubes. If you think a CNC'd alternator relocating kit with Heim links for adjustment is ghetto, then you need to quit hanging out with the Honda guys.:nod:
Goat Blower
03-28-2007, 03:43 PM
See the bar on the top? That's the tensioner.
Stuff on that site looks ghettoooo.
example: http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=20
Hey, welcome to DSM's. Ghetto sells.:banana:
Pushit2.0
03-28-2007, 06:43 PM
If they moved the alternator belt to the AC part of the pulley you would just need to buy a 4 cog belt that is exactly the right length, then no tensioner is needed. Can someone link/host some of the pics, for some reason my computer will not load the website.
~John
Halon
03-28-2007, 07:31 PM
http://www.jayracing.com/images/products/ARK-1%20004.jpg
Goat Blower
03-29-2007, 12:03 AM
It uses the same alternator groove of the crank pulley, you need a tensioner. Mine squeals at start up because the Buschur style only uses a bolt to push the alternator away from the block instead of solidly locating it like this adjustable arm. I gotta check to see if that upper arm gets in the way of the 2.4 knock sensor hole though.
Good call Steve, it looks like it is screwed into the 2.4l knock sensor location.
rst95eclipse
03-29-2007, 11:26 AM
If they moved the alternator belt to the AC part of the pulley you would just need to buy a 4 cog belt that is exactly the right length, then no tensioner is needed. Can someone link/host some of the pics, for some reason my computer will not load the website.
How could you get the belt to the correct tension without a tensioner? Just by pulling the crank pulley down as hard as can be and bolt it down? Don't belts heat up and stretch?
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