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rst95eclipse
02-26-2007, 11:03 AM
Who knows. One day I just might dump in some methanol for shits and giggles. I'm aware that the stock rails will flow enough fuel. I just wanted the super cool ginormous rail with "Magnus Motorsports" etched into it. Plug and play saves me the hassle of reaming it and threading it for AN fittings. So, I waste time reaming my stock rail out and threading it. I'll have to buy a drill bit (I don't have something that large) and a tap with AN threading. Then, I'll have to anodize the rail. All of which cost money. I'm just guesstimating, but it might be around $50 in overall savings - which to me is worth not having to deal with it.

You are reaming out the inside of the bungs so you won't even see it from the outside, it can stay anodized and look fine.

Ever drilled something out? It leaves scratches. Again, I'm anal on how things look and I wouldn't want to anodize the rail twice.

JET
02-26-2007, 09:14 PM
Ever drilled something out? It leaves scratches. Again, I'm anal on how things look and I wouldn't want to anodize the rail twice.

How does REAMING something out in the inside scratch the outside? I was a machinist for 9 years, don't start.

You can just say that you paid some extra money for bling, don't try and rationalize it.

rst95eclipse
02-26-2007, 09:22 PM
How does REAMING something out in the inside scratch the outside? I was a machinist for 9 years, don't start.

You can just say that you paid some extra money for bling, don't try and rationalize it.

Lol. I guess I should add machinist costs for reaming out the rail then. So basically, I paid exactly what you're going to pay or maybe I'm up!

Did you ever scratch something you were working with, say an anodized fuel rail?

Goat Blower
02-26-2007, 10:16 PM
I don't know why you need to anodize the rail unless you're using methanol. E85 isn't corrosive enough to warrant it. So you hog out a stock rail with a big drill bit. Total cost, about $12 for nice bit. Not too tough.

rst95eclipse
02-27-2007, 02:04 PM
I want my setup to be ready to accept methanol, if I ever feel the need to drop some in. The entire fuel system will be very large - from the cell to the injectors and back. Besides, I got the rail for FREEEEEEEE!!

Actually, I think the profits from the SMIM paid for it and then some. But that's another story for another thread.

tpunx99GSX
02-27-2007, 06:41 PM
Who knows. One day I just might dump in some methanol for shits and giggles. I'm aware that the stock rails will flow enough fuel. I just wanted the super cool ginormous rail with "Magnus Motorsports" etched into it. Plug and play saves me the hassle of reaming it and threading it for AN fittings. So, I waste time reaming my stock rail out and threading it. I'll have to buy a drill bit (I don't have something that large) and a tap with AN threading. Then, I'll have to anodize the rail. All of which cost money. I'm just guesstimating, but it might be around $50 in overall savings - which to me is worth not having to deal with it.



Ever drilled something out? It leaves scratches. Again, I'm anal on how things look and I wouldn't want to anodize the rail twice.
OT:
i love my Super Cool Ginormous Fuel Rail. Cant wait to put the engine in and get some pics up of the entire setup.

JET
02-27-2007, 08:03 PM
Lol. I guess I should add machinist costs for reaming out the rail then. So basically, I paid exactly what you're going to pay or maybe I'm up!

Did you ever scratch something you were working with, say an anodized fuel rail?

A reamer that size would cost about $6 and is used in a regular drill. Then again you knew that since you were commenting about it.

rst95eclipse
02-28-2007, 12:13 AM
No, I'd actually bring it to a machinist, such as yourself. So if it's scratched in the process, the machinist/you would have to anodize it again.

I'll put it simply this way. You can buy injectors that are designed for the fuel rail. Or you can make your fuel rail work with the injectors you want. I'd rather not ream out a $175 fuel rail and it's already anodized. The risks outweigh the reward. You however have the opportunity to just buy another rail for $20 and try again. Once you have it done the way you like it, you get to anodize it.

By no means am I tell you or anyone else to not use the Ford injectors. It's a great deal to make them work on a fuel rail that is cheap and accessible to get your hands on. I'm just saying in my situation, it is not the right thing to do. You can simply accept that or let this thread drag on.

Pushit2.0
02-28-2007, 09:17 AM
Drag on, how about using a lathe and turning down the end to fit the mitsu rail, then you will not scratch your anodizing.

~John

rst95eclipse
02-28-2007, 11:05 AM
How much does a lathe cost?
How much would it cost for me to use LSE's (probably wouldn't let me)?
How much for LSE to do it?

All options point to one thing in my situation - JUST BUY PTE.