Dave's Evo X Build/The Life of Dave blog

[Murlo26]

New clutch/flywheel/cmc are in now. It feels very good. Still working on normal driving it. Rowed through the gears a bit to see how it was and that feels awesome.

I really dig the 6 puck...gonna take some getting used to though. The chatter is very minimal.



Problem though...either my boost gauge stopped working while at DB or I am only boosting 22psi now :?:

I had to go pick my wheel lock up at DB today and Danny and I boost leak tested it and it held 30psi with no leaks. Soooo, very confused now. Before my gauge never went below like 26 which agreed with the dyno plot at wot after spool. Now it never goes above 23-24

Shane said the new WGA could be affecting the car since the X is load based. So maybe DB fixed another IC pipe leak or something and I am in different load cells...who knows. Time to go back to the dyno soon i guess.

[4g63tcrazy]

Good to hear on the clutch! Once it's broken in you wont get anymore chatter. I know I love my 6 puck. I would try swapping out the boost gauge with a different one just to make sure. Before you spend the money for another dyno tune.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by 4g63tcrazy

Good to hear on the clutch! Once it's broken in you wont get anymore chatter. I know I love my 6 puck. I would try swapping out the boost gauge with a different one just to make sure. Before you spend the money for another dyno tune.

I am planning on getting another gauge soon since mine maxes at 30psi and i am running more than that.

However, I was planning on a retune in a few weeks regardless since I now have a good clutch in that can take some more torque...upping the boost to 33ish and hopefully with my new wastegate we could get some more power.

[Murlo26]

Here is the stock clutch/flywheel combo out...doesn't look terrible. I am really liking the 6 puck..still getting used to the stiffness but if feels great.

[goodhart]

haha, looks like that clutch and flywheel seen some heat!

[LingLing]

Holy heat batman! 6 pucks are great. Easy to DD but holds the power when you need it. I've had them on all my manual transmission cars and have never had one fail me.

[Murlo26]

I am digging the 6 puck for sure...I will likely go with another one when the time calls for it...but we will see, still early to tell.

There was some heat there for sure, lots of hot spots. But the clutch was still holding when i took it out.

Now i just need to find out what is up with my boost.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Now i just need to find out what is up with my boost.

Shane put it in 'new clutch' mode when you weren't looking.

[Murlo26]

Damn, he is so sneaky

[Murlo26]

Hmmm...so my wheel/tire combo didn't fit, lol.

Well it did, but couldn't turn enough to where i would feel comfortable driving up front...need negative camber.

Any recommendations of somewhere i can go, like over lunch where they could set me up with some negative camber?

Is this an easy task to do, or extensive? I would prefer not to have jeff the alignment guy do this since i will need him after all is said and done and would prefer to just do this once.

However, the wheels looked badass, i should've snapped a pic. Tires are the sex too.

[Matt D.]

If the X front suspension is the same as or similar to the VIII-IX all you need to do is loosen up the two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle, then flip the top bolt 180 degrees. When tightening it back up you push the knuckle and struts inward toward the car and that will get you as much camber as possible out of the front suspension. Keep in mind this will cause you to gain a little toe in.

[mlomker]

Originally Posted by Matt D.

all you need to do is loosen up the two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle

yup. same same.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Matt D.

If the X front suspension is the same as or similar to the VIII-IX all you need to do is loosen up the two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle, then flip the top bolt 180 degrees. When tightening it back up you push the knuckle and struts inward toward the car and that will get you as much camber as possible out of the front suspension. Keep in mind this will cause you to gain a little toe in.

I would need to run with this kind of toe in anyway with my aggressive wheel setup right? I mean there isn't any getting around that i assume?

[scheides]

Originally Posted by Matt D.

If the X front suspension is the same as or similar to the VIII-IX all you need to do is loosen up the two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle, then flip the top bolt 180 degrees. When tightening it back up you push the knuckle and struts inward toward the car and that will get you as much camber as possible out of the front suspension. Keep in mind this will cause you to gain a little toe in.

this. take off a wheel and take a look, it's pretty obvious which bolts, there's two big ones. 17mm IIRC, mayyybe 19 (on the CT9A anyways). If you absolutely can't figure it out, give me a call and stop over. We can do it in about 20 mins. 651.236.0985

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by scheides

this. take off a wheel and take a look, it's pretty obvious which bolts, there's two big ones. 17mm IIRC, mayyybe 19 (on the CT9A anyways). If you absolutely can't figure it out, give me a call and stop over. We can do it in about 20 mins. 651.236.0985

Hmmm, well maybe I will stop by sometime, you free tomorrow or Thursday?

I really do need to get my own tools, or start gathering some. A torque wrench is very necessary.

Would this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches and a set of bigger metric 3/4" sockets be all i would need to do this job?

Perhaps I can watch the first time, then next time I can do it myself, or have you guide me the first time.

[t-revzr]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Hmmm, well maybe I will stop by sometime, you free tomorrow or Thursday?

I really do need to get my own tools, or start gathering some. A torque wrench is very necessary.

Would this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches and a set of bigger metric 3/4" sockets be all i would need to do this job?

Perhaps I can watch the first time, then next time I can do it myself, or have you guide me the first time.

You never watched me when I was doin them at Scheides the other weekend? It's a walk in the park!

[scheides]

Tomorrow by like 7 or Thursday would would work. Watch? Lol you can turn the second wrench . One on each side is best.

[Murlo26]

^Yea i watched, lol, but i guess i am only really worried about torquing shit down. Don't wanna overtorque anything or under for that matter and have something back out.

I am a puss when it comes to doing something new, but once i have done something and feel comfortable i fly through it.

I'll give you a call tomorrow scheides. I guess I will head over a little after i get off work.

So i am guessing i will need an alignment after this for sure? Will it hurt to drive on it for a week or two until i can get one? I guess it is irrelevant since i will probably do it anyway, but figured i would ask.

[Kracka]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Would this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches and a set of bigger metric 3/4" sockets be all i would need to do this job?

Thats too small, that torque wrench is 3/8" and in in/lbs, you'll want a 1/2" drive in ft/lbs for doing suspension and wheels.
This is the one I have: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...orque+Wrenches
As a note, Craftsman doesn't have a lifetime warranty on their tq wrenches but I've had mine since 2002 and it still works perfectly.

[scheides]

I have that same torque wrench, as does my neighbor, very reliable as long as you make sure to back it off to zero after you're done using it every time.

Murlo don't worry about over-torquing these bolts, we'll use a torque wrench but a little extra gutentight is usually dandy