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Old 08-04-2004   #21
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So when you looked at the two oild pans were they similar or not at all? If you didnt look then I dunno but that shouldnt make any difference unless the pickup is blocked but I doubt that.

Unless you left that rag in the pan like JET mentioned which could block the pickup entirely :stick:

It doesnt make sense that it wont pump oil because it did when you drove it there and everything was fine. The welding on the pan might cause a blockup if the hole is plugged but oil would still get sucked up the pickup if it was blocked, which I doubt.

I dont know. The only way the oil pickup couldnt be getting oil is if the old 95 pan was shallower and you could put less oil in it. Maybe you need more oil in this new pan to fill it higher. You should also check to see if the dipstick from the car with the "new" pan came from is any different than your current dipstick from your old oil pan. If it is diff. then maybe you dont have enough oil in the car..... this is really not likely.
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Old 08-04-2004   #22
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according to the parts guru the pans are the same. They also look the same side by side. There isn't any weld in the return tube either. It is definately weird. We'll have to try switching the pan back or something.
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Old 08-04-2004   #23
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I'm using the Same oil Dipstick as before,

The only differnce is my last pan was dented and at 3.5 quarts it was right in the middle of the "Fill/Full" Line.

Now with a little over 4 quarts it is above the full line.

The only thing I can think of is the other pan was dented right under where the Pick up is? So maybe that bent the Oil Pick up, Up.

So now with the now deeper Oil pan it doesn't reach the oil? but to me the oil pick up looked totaly normal. When I took apart my GSX Motor to be parted out the Oil pick up didn't look any different then the one that's in my GS-T Motor (ie: the motor that's in my GSX Now)
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Old 08-04-2004   #24
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The pickup goes right to the bottom of the pan, there is no reason the oil level should be below the pickup if the oil level is full.
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Old 08-04-2004   #25
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The dam pick up is not bent, there is somthing else wrong. The pick up should have 4" of oil over it when the pan is full, which you said it was. You could put 1 quart in and the pick up would be under oil.

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Old 08-04-2004   #26
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Maybe you bumped the filter hard enough that the gasket cracked and there's no longer a seal. Kind of like a straw with a hole in it. It's a long shot, but damn, there just aren't that many things that could cause that.

I bet you guys will find what's wrong right away when you drop the pan again.
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Old 08-04-2004   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by CDeutsch@Aug 4 2004, 03:34 PM
Maybe you bumped the filter hard enough that the gasket cracked and there's no longer a seal. Kind of like a straw with a hole in it. It's a long shot, but damn, there just aren't that many things that could cause that.

I bet you guys will find what's wrong right away when you drop the pan again.
EXACTLY!............Open her up!

My 2G threw a balance shaft internally before. I had all sorts of metal smashed bearings and shaft parts. No oil pressure light though....oil pressure instrument read a little low so I checked my oil and saw shimmering oil on the end of the dipstick. I tore it apart and installed a b-shaft elim. kit.

To make a long story short.........Open it up. You might find that tool that fell under the valve cover, inner half of your oil pump, b-shaft, thrust bearing or space alians.

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Old 08-04-2004   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmicmatt@Aug 4 2004, 04:07 PM
or space aliens.
OH NOEESS!!!11
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Old 08-04-2004   #29
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Before I'd pull the pan, I'd take the timing belt off and spin the oil pump with a drill. Look under the oil cap for oil coming into the head. If it's not, there's a blockage between the oil pump and the head, especially in the oil filter housing. I don't think it has anything to do with the pan or pickup.
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Old 08-04-2004   #30
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well Heres my two cents Did you do a balance shaft eliminator at all? and if you did did you use that stubby one or the QPR balance shaft elim?? cause the little stubby guys tend to chatter and baskically take out your oil pump and by my guess the brass you say thats you saw in the pan is chunks of your main oil pump gears...or.... grab a test light and go through your wireing and check the relays and all to the oil pressure guage and the oil pressure sending unit...the unit it self may be bad also....and according to my all data here at work your car should take roughly 4.5-5 qt's of oil.
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Old 08-04-2004   #31
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I would also take off the tbelt and spin it up. If the oil pump went dry it can be hard to prime. I had the same issue two weekend ago with my new motor. No oil to the head and no pressure reading. Pulled the tbelt and it took almost 30 sec of spinning before the drill slowwed and showed signs of oil being in there.
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Old 08-05-2004   #32
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Well, the brass pieces can't be parts of the oil pump gears since they are steel. The most curious thing was a fully intact wavy C clip that was in the oil pan. It had about a 3/4" diameter to it.
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Old 08-05-2004   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by JET@Aug 4 2004, 11:31 PM
Well, the brass pieces can't be parts of the oil pump gears since they are steel. The most curious thing was a fully intact wavy C clip that was in the oil pan. It had about a 3/4" diameter to it.
Wrist pin retainer?
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Old 08-05-2004   #34
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I am pretty sure it is turbo bits. That is the only place I can think that they use brass in the oil path.
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Old 08-05-2004   #35
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I know a guy on NABR found some unknown parts in his oil pan a while back and they were supposedly some T25 turbo bearings.
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Old 08-05-2004   #36
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Well I never took off the oil filter though any of this so wouldn't there still be oil in that system?


it's definetely not electrical cause when you take the oil cap off and look inside the head when the cars running you can see there is no oil getting to the head.
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Old 08-05-2004   #37
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I vote to try spinning the pump with a dril, if you don't see any oil getting to the head time to drop the pan.

:goodluck:

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Old 08-05-2004   #38
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If it was mine and I had that much time and money into the car, the pan would be off and the front case, pump gears be apart so I could check everything. Having any metal in the pan can cause damage to so many things, it isn't worth it to just guess and fix one problem when there could be many. The steel gears in the pump ride in an aluminum housing, any particles that make their way past the pickup screen will chew up that housing. Bearings and journals get destroyed by small particles as well. I would do everything I could to make sure that the bottom end is as clean and within spec as possible.

I won't speculate as to how this happened. You will most likely find out if you get it all ripped apart.
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Old 08-05-2004   #39
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good luck either way... all it needs is time by the sounds of it!

-E
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Old 08-05-2004   #40
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Time and Money.

If I knew how to do a Timing Belt I'd tear the whole thing apart. But I don't so I'm at least looking at $400 or what ever the going rate is for a Timing Belt Job, Which I don't have at this time.

I will and plan to at least drop the Oil pan just because it's Free and Easy enough to do.

Like I said if we can't figure it out, etc when we drop the oil pan. I'll just have the car towed back to the house and it'll sit there till I get money to tear the motor apart. Earliest would be October.

I have my a $220 ticket to pay for. as Well as my $450 Plane ticket to South Carolina for my September trip with Jenny.

I just don't know what else I'll have to drive. Jenny's tranny is getting to the point where it doesn't grind or anything, But it just won't go in gear. Which is why I stopped driving that car.
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