Using a Hobbs switch to control a 3 way switch

[turbotalon1g]

I want to use a hobbs switch to control my cutout, is this possible?

Right now for my cutout I have to hold the button for 3 seconds to open, then leave it open, then 3 seconds to close it and its closed.

From what I can find a hobbs switch is either ON or OFF.

Can anyone help me with this? I have never used a hobbs switch before so I do not know much about them.

Thanks
Aaron

[FFPerformance]

you can set up a simple circuit to do that, one that is activated by the hobs switch that essentially puts things in motion, then can do it in reverse when activated again. You would most likely need some EE help though. It should be too tough of a circuit to design but it's beyond me (I just know enough to talk the talk )

[scheides]

Cutout? Eww. :P

What's the ultimate goal? Go WOT, trip the hobs @ 3psi (or w/e) and then trigger it to open the cutout? When will it close, manually? There's some logic missing here.

I really hate the way those cutouts are wired, makes setting up stuff like this tricky/annoying.

[Forced Fed]

Originally Posted by scheides

Cutout? Eww. :P

I really hate the way those cutouts are wired, makes setting up stuff like this tricky/annoying.

Only if it was as simple as going open during WOT and shutting after that!

[MustGoFaster]

Sounds like a very similar application to my VICS intake manifold controller (mostly identical). It was a decent challenge to set it up, but you want the same thing accomplished, only you'll be using a hobbs switch and I used the AEM, but not much difference.

The issue isn't with the hobbs switch, but with the way the motor that runs the E-cutout needs to be run. It need the polarity reversed, but only needs to be run for +/- 3 seconds, and then shutoff, even though the signal from the switched input is maintained.

I made a few assumptions, but I think your cutout should be run mostly the same way. Only two wires run down to the motor it self right?

I'll agree with Scheides, the way these things are run makes it hard to do things like this.

Also, since it's going to be a challenge to get the cutout run off the hobbs switch, you might want to just add the challenge of triggering it off the throttle position sensor to give the cutout a jump start on opening up. It might only be .2 of a second but having the exhaust bottled up slows down spool-up.

Edit: to show how not simple this is, here is what I built to do what I suspect is the same job.


I'd be willing to build one for you, but I spent ~$100 to build that one and that doesn't include the (lots of) time I put into it.

[Pushit2.0]

I think in this case you might want to plan 3 seconds in advance for your cut out. Or find a way to have a flapper system that opens under higher exhaust pressure, kind of like a stock evo muffler. Most cut outs are DC motors and only need ~3 seconds to open then a polarity switch and ~3 seconds to close, so Ryan your controller would work.

~John

[MustGoFaster]

I've considered setting one up with something similar to a waistgate actuator (only very low pressure acuation) but never got to it.

[scheides]

Ya, ATPturbo.com used to sell cutouts that were actuated with a WGA just like on an internaly-gated turbo. They had different psi it would open at, pretty slick IMHO. This electronic setup seems like a PITA.

Really though, what do you want it to do? Open when you do WOT right? Then close when you are not WOT? Well with this 3 second BS you really cannot accomplish that. You hit WOT, trip the hobbs switch, and 3 seconds begin. You rip through a gear as the thing opens, grab the next gear as its fully open, then the next gear its fully open the whole time. You let off, it begins to close, but takes 3 seconds. What if you get back on WOT again right away? Its a conundrum!

[turbotalon1g]

^calm down and stop hating.

I am trying to figure a way to make the car more consistent. Esp. if i turn it over to SD, i don't know a lot about electronics as ryan for example so I wanted to see my options.

Now for the cutout, it is simply the pimpest thing ever that can be done on any car, Fcuk the sleeper part of it, the fact the car is dead quiet and just sounds powerful is nice also the fact I'm not losing any power over the complete 3" system that was on there.

Ryan thanks for the info. I got a few backup plans to check out, but I appreciate the help I always like a bit of education.

Aaron

[scheides]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

^calm down and stop hating.

I think you misread my post; I seriously didn't mean to come across like that. Think through how you want it to work, read what I wrote, I'd like to help you figure it out! I know a thing or two about electronics

[turbotalon1g]

I did, my bad. I should of known.