Mark's 1G Winter Projects

[turbotalon1g]

Originally Posted by mondale

lol @ no cage and doors gutted on that car.

Street car.

[goodhart]

It's actually a track only 14b car. Guy is trying to get it under 2,000 lbs.

[Pushit2.0]

Originally Posted by goodhart

It's actually a track only 14b car. Guy is trying to get it under 2,000 lbs.

track only 14b DSM under 2000lbs.....

My 4 door white Nissan is 2350 W/O driver and I have full glass, minus rear window, and a manifold turbo setup pushing 125lbs.... plus water to air IC setup in the 100+lb range.

If you want a 1g DSM can get down there in weight, look up Curt Brown and you will know.

[goodhart]

Well, this guy is awfully close. It is a fwd car, so he has a huge advantage.

Anyways, back on topic

[Mark Leasure]

Got my tube bender and some 4130 1-5/8” 0.83” wall tubing. I realized that the bender needs to be secured to the floor, as it takes a lot of torque to operate the bender, with a 3 foot extension handle. I researched it a little bit and ended up drilling the floor for some female 5/8” threaded inserts. Cool product, now I can mount the bender or whatever to the floor. It will come in handy in the future. The bender doesn’t like to bend this 0.083" wall thickness chromoly past 70 degrees without having some collapsing problems. I’m sure its operator error somehow. I worked around it, I’ll provide pictures later when I finish it up, hopefully this weekend! It was a whole process designing the front tube and how to bend everything correctly, the first try!

[Mark Leasure]

Oh and on the door panel thing, I think I’m going to run OEM door panels for now. They are decently light and make it look like a sleeper.

[mondale]

If you are going to be bending a decent amount more tubing in the future and want to tinker/fabricate you should really look at mean street's bender. The older guy just finished attaching a hydraulic ram to it with a variable ratcheting base that allows you to bend a tube quite a bit past 90 with a straight push hydraulic cylinder. A fun project for those rare weekends when nothing breaks on these cars

[Mark Leasure]

Just got the front end all wrapped up. Now I just need to tear it all down, finish weld everything, and send it off to get the bumper and engine bay painted.

I'm happy with the way it turned out.

[C3L1CA]

Looks awesome!

[goodhart]

Can't wait to see it painted!

[bramagedained]

You might be able to pack the pipe with sand before you bend it to stop it from collapsing on higher angle bends.

[evotuner]

Originally Posted by C3L1CA

Looks awesome!

+1

[turbotalon1g]

Looks great, can we have more pics.

[Fejery4491]

Typically you'll have problems with the tube collapsing/wrinkling from when you get the end of arm travel and have to yank the pin and move it to the next hole to reset the arm. The tube relaxes in the die causing a small air gap and that's where you'll get wrinkling/collapsing/etc. We had the same problem with my buddies JD2 Model 3. Alot of the newer benders have a pin that drops when you get the end of arm travel or "anti spring back" systems to maintain pressure on the tube while you re-pin.
If you're planning on using the bender alot, like mondale said, hydraulic is the way to go. Sadly a system like he's talking about (bending past 90 degrees in a single pass) is extremely expensive if you're not making money off of it. I use a JD2 Model 32 with a Harbor freight air to hydraulic ram and SWAG offroad bracket (which with you machining ability, I'm sure you could just fab something up)
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Tubing-Be...ount_p_53.html

I'm not gonna lie and pretend its the quickest or most powerful option, but it certainly does the job, bends about 65 degrees before you have to move the pin. I have the bender mounted on an engine stand since it doesn't have to be bolted down and just roll it wherever I need it and can stand right over the degree wheel operating the ram with one hand and hold a cold beer in the other. If you find a 20% off coupon the ram only costs like $65 too.

Enough of my little ramble though, I just love fabrication tools. I really like how your front end turned out. I've been considering something very similar since my core support it so rusted and nasty, but have to wait until my tax return to buy my tig. I cant wait to see the finished product when its all painted and everything! Keep up the great work!

[PlanoEvo]

Looks Great!

[Mark Leasure]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Originally Posted by Fejery4491

Typically you'll have problems with the tube collapsing/wrinkling from when you get the end of arm travel and have to yank the pin and move it to the next hole to reset the arm. The tube relaxes in the die causing a small air gap and that's where you'll get wrinkling/collapsing/etc. We had the same problem with my buddies JD2 Model 3. Alot of the newer benders have a pin that drops when you get the end of arm travel or "anti spring back" systems to maintain pressure on the tube while you re-pin.
If you're planning on using the bender alot, like mondale said, hydraulic is the way to go. Sadly a system like he's talking about (bending past 90 degrees in a single pass) is extremely expensive if you're not making money off of it. I use a JD2 Model 32 with a Harbor freight air to hydraulic ram and SWAG offroad bracket (which with you machining ability, I'm sure you could just fab something up)
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Tubing-Be...ount_p_53.html

I'm not gonna lie and pretend its the quickest or most powerful option, but it certainly does the job, bends about 65 degrees before you have to move the pin. I have the bender mounted on an engine stand since it doesn't have to be bolted down and just roll it wherever I need it and can stand right over the degree wheel operating the ram with one hand and hold a cold beer in the other. If you find a 20% off coupon the ram only costs like $65 too.

Enough of my little ramble though, I just love fabrication tools. I really like how your front end turned out. I've been considering something very similar since my core support it so rusted and nasty, but have to wait until my tax return to buy my tig. I cant wait to see the finished product when its all painted and everything! Keep up the great work!

Very good information, you captured the failure mode I’m experiencing perfectly. As soon as I move the die to the next hole to bend anything over 60-65 degrees the tube is not seated perfectly to the die. Then it starts to deform the tube and actually the tube starts to slip out of the front holder. In my front end pics with the tube the first bend is around 65 degrees followed up with a 25 degree bend to get the full 90. I would like to figure out how to get the full 90 without the issue for future projects.
Thanks for the information on the ram and the link to the adaptor site, looks like a great solution!
The bumper and areo parts are at the painter this week and should be done by this weekend. The car gets dropped off for paint this week too!

More pics - I don't think I've posted pics of the monster 6" thick intercooler! The total weight savings ended up at 46 pounds. I added 16 pounds back in, to tube the front, total from the original 62 pound removal weight. Not too bad!





I also added a tow hook.

[turbotalon1g]

Can you do my car?

[93gtpeater]

So after its painted your putting it back together with the dog box? Or you going to work the 5 spd some more.

[JET]

That is a pretty long torque are you have there to the front motor mount. Any plans to add a brace to it? With the power you are running I would be pretty worried about it bending.

[Speedfreak]

Originally Posted by JET

That is a pretty long torque are you have there to the front motor mount. Any plans to add a brace to it? With the power you are running I would be pretty worried about it bending.

I've been concerned about the new setup since you posted pics the other day, but now that you've added a tow hook, I'm more worried. I'd add some triangulation to the design to support the forces it could see.