Thinking about doing a 4g64/4G63 head combo

[Perkul8r]

Ok, so seems as how my talon has no motor what so ever in it, I was talking to a couple friends and they mentioned that some people are having good luck with a 4g64 motor. So i started doing some searching tonight and i see alot of different info on these setups.

One place said that the 64 short block and 63 head will yield a crazy high compression ratio, and another one said different. Also they said there are some minor things that need to be done to the block, like some oil passages blocked off.

I guess i would like to know if the combo is a good idea? And if so what are the advantages? IS there anything major i would have to do to run this combo in my 91 talon?

Sorry if this is a noob question. I just see alot of conflicting answers out there when i searched google.

[Speedfreak]

Do it.

Keep doing your research, but there is nothing major. I don't think I could drive a dsm without a 2.4l.

[Boostn2g]

I think its like the 7 bolt head and 6 bolt block combo...block oil passages, and drill out the head stud holes a 1mm bigger?!? correct me if I'm wrong.

[badinblack]

I did it to gain drivability on the street with bigger turbos. The main thing is to keep in same year. 91 head with 91 block (just makes things easier) You will need different pistons beause the combustion chamber is smaller on the 4g63 head. down falls people say are you cant rev them as high as a 2.0l. I run mine to 8k with no problems yet. Keep doing research. It will come down to what you want to do with it in the end. (street or track)

[Goat Blower]

It doesn't have to be year specific, just 6-bolt to 1G head for the least amount of work. It's a great combo, I had one for years and is the only way to go if you're driving a big turbo car on the street. You do need rods and pistons though, the factory NT DOHC 4G64 pistons won't last with any boost and the SOHC pistons aren't even close to working with a DOHC head.

[Perkul8r]

So far the couple things i have found and still looking at are the actual engine codes.

According to a post on DSMTuners:
A 4G64 is a 7 bolt block, whereas the G4CS is a 6 bolt block.
Not sure if that is right, still looking into it.

And also i see people running stock rods but using aftermarket pistons. There was a set on ExtremePSI in one post that are made to work specifically with the 4G64block/4G63 head combo. Says CR should be around 8.5:1.

My plans for the car are to have a streetable car but still take it to the track and run some good numbers. I really aint looking for insane amounts of HP and TQ, as i will be driving it daily during the summer.

[Perkul8r]

Also, can someone clarify what years and models of cars these engines came in. There is a wide range of cars at our local junkyard, so i may be able to find one thats in decent shape.

[Super Bleeder!!]

Search dude, this topic has been beat to death 1000x times on just as many forums.

[Perkul8r]

I have been searching most and the things i am asking are only things that i have not been able to completely clarify. I will continue searching, but most of the posts i am finding are all old ass ones and never really have good info.

Most of my morning has been spent searching. Haven't had anything to do at work, so i spend my time on the web trying to find info.

[TkrPerformance]

I am build a 2.4 right now for the evo 3

94 galant 4g64 dohc block and crank (7bolt)
95 evo 3 head built (same as a 2g head)
ross 9:1 2.4 pistons
eagle rods
arp main studs
arp l19 head studs
felpro pera tq head gasket
ect

[Perkul8r]

Is it true that if you get the DOHC 2.4 that you dont have to worry about blocking off any oil return passages like on the SOHC motors

[TkrPerformance]

yep no plug's on the 4g64 dohc blocks

[Perkul8r]

So that would be the best block to go with than. Cool. I will have to scour the junkyard to see if there are any out there. I highly doubt it, but you never know.

[goodhart]

From Wikipedia (Be advised that Wiki is not always the best source for credible information):

The 4G64 is the second largest variant, at (2350 cc). Early models were 8-valve SOHC, but a later 16-valve SOHC and DOHC version was also produced. All used MPFI with an 86.5 mm bore and 100 mm stroke. The 4G64 was also available with gasoline direct injection. The version used in the Chrysler Sebring/Stratus coupes produced 152 hp (110 kW) at 5500 rpm with 162 ft·lbf (214 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm. The Chrysler version features fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods. The 4G64 is an interference motor like the 4G63, however, the early 8-valve 4G64 is a non interference engine.
[edit] Applications

* 1987–1990 Mitsubishi Sapporo
* 1988–1996 Mitsubishi Van
* 1990–1992 Mitsubishi L200
* 1990–1996 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
* 1986-1998 Hyundai Grandeur
* 1993-1997 Mitsubishi Chariot
* 1994–2003 Mitsubishi Galant
* 1996–1998 Mitsubishi Magna
* 1994–2006 Mitsubishi Delica
* 1996–1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse
* 2000–2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse
* 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander
* 2005 Mitsubishi Zinger
* 1989–1991 Hyundai Sonata
* 1990–1992 Dodge Ram 50
* 2001–2005 Chrysler Sebring/Dodge Stratus
* 2004–present Brilliance BS6
* 2008–present Chery V5
* 2006–present Great Wall Hover

It didn't mention anything about the G4CS in particular. I am also not sure which ones were DOHC or SOHC, I don't know much about the 2.4's

[Goat Blower]

The G4CS came in 89-91 Hyundai Sonatas. That's the one I've used for my builds, no problems.

[Perkul8r]

Awesome info. Thanks guys. So far from everything i read, i have gathered that using the 4G64 block and crank, with new rods and pistons can handle quite a bit.

As far as what i need to find, i have narrowed it down to:
4G64 short block
4G64 cam gears and timing belt.
And i can use a 1g turbo head.

So far i think thats the major things i need to get to get started.
I will continue to keep searching for more info cause i am sure there is more to this than what i have read so far.

Thanks again for the info.

[badinblack]

Are you going to put the oil sqirters back in? just wondering.

[Halon]

Another option to consider might be to simply put the 2.4 crank in your 2.0 block. Might help keep your questions minimal as you don't need different cam gears, different t-belt, etc.

Just an alternative to consider as you might have a slightly easier time finding 2.0 blocks.

[Perkul8r]

I would have to find a machine shop to put in oil sqiurters. Not sure if any around here would do that.

I already have a lead on a good 2.0 block. I may just go with that for now. I am not find much for the 2.4's around here.

[95talonracer]

You should just buy my fully built 2.3 stroker and call it done. Throw it in and make power.