Re-torquing ARP headstuds

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

As everyone saw last saturday my car is puking coolant under high boost (again) - 29psi. When I drive/boost my pump gas map (24psi) it is rock solid, no coolant issues.

So, what's everyone's methodology for re-torquing headstuds? I have run 10k miles since I put the HG in and am going to yank the valve cover to make sure everything's tight. What's the best plan of attack? Just hit it with a torque wrench set for 90 (this is a 7-bolt remember), or crack them loose and re-torque?

Yup, this is basically a shot in the dark, but I'm not ready to yank the head off right now.

Thx for the input.

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

Side question: how many times can you torque ARP headstuds before they should be replaced?

95talonracer · 05-12-2009

I say back them off, make sure your actual studs are tight and then retorque the nuts back on just incase one or some of the studs are loose.

FattyBoomBatty · 05-12-2009

I say don't loosen them. I've heard about people loosening them then retorquing, but what the hell is the point of doing that if they are already torqued. What "retorquing" does is just make sure nothing has become loose. You are basically checking your work from before. I didn't loosen mine up, and when I checked 'em there was one that was questionable, but the rest were just as tight as when I put 'em in. I've also reused these studs at least 3 times and put torque on them maybe 5 or 6 times. If it all of a sudden becomes easy to turn, then replace 'em. haha.

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

My only concern with breaking them loose is actually loosening the stud instead of the nut on top. That's what makes me want to just torque them, not loosen them first.

More opinions/experience welcome plz

Also, I was WRONG, it does push coolant on low-boost, just not nearly as bad. I did prolly 5 or 6 4th gear rips on the way to the office today....prolly 4-5 3rd gear rips...a few 2nd gear rips, and 4 2nd-3rd-4th NLTS rips. When I got to work, the overflow hose was wet, but not drenched. I could see dry spots inside it, not like it was just puking out.

Mwolf83 · 05-12-2009

I've re-torqued mine dozens of times with no issues and they are just the regular off the shelf ARP's not L19's. I just make sure that every time I do re-tighten them I lube them up with moly lube and torque in 3 stages (30, 60, 90).
You probably should call ARP though and see what they actually recommend that you do.

FattyBoomBatty · 05-12-2009

Did you spray copper on the gasket?

oh and to Mwolf83, I did call ARP and they said as long as it's not quite obviously stretched, you can re-use them as much as you want. If the OP used their moly lube when assembling them, there is probably some left on the threads and washers so there's no need to take them off, and he would run the risk, as he mentioned of loosening the studs themselves.

**Kracka** · 05-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty

Did you spray copper on the gasket?

He did, and I wonder if that partially at fault here. Possibly too much? Possibly better off w/o spray?

FattyBoomBatty · 05-12-2009

Yeah, I'm interested in the findings.

mdost03 · 05-12-2009

I've always used copper spray on my headgaskets without issues. From what I have read, to retorque ARP headstuds, you back them off loose and then retorque. I've never retorqued them before, mine have always been fine the first time around, but everyone has their own opinion.

MustGoFaster · 05-12-2009

I assume you are using the right TQ spec? They are different for which type of lube you use. You can also try a slightly higher torque. We found it effective on Josh's car at delaying head gasket failure to a higher HP level.

You may want to lossen the nuts up and take them off just so you can besure they are nice an lubed up.

4g63tcrazy · 05-12-2009

When you retorque them you leave them tight and just go over them again. It's just to make sure non of them came loose. I had my two middle ones come just a little loose on me when i retorqued mine. You can retorque them as many times as you want also. But when you re-use them you will probably want to torque them a bit higher then last time since standard ARP's are torque-to-yeild bolts.

desolate · 05-12-2009

I have my regular arps torqued to 110ft lbs with an autozone composite hg (felpro) w/copperspray.

Doing 33psi spike(16g) and 35psi(scm61) with no hint of coolant pushing. I know that's higher than what arp rates them for but it has worked great for me. This is with molylube as well. I used to stop at 100ft lbs but I always had leaking issues, the day I decided to go 110ft lbs was the day my high boost coolant push issues were gone.

And then the day I start to push coolant on this setup is when I'll go with L19s.

**Kracka** · 05-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4g63tcrazy

When you retorque them you leave them tight and just go over them again. It's just to make sure non of them came loose. I had my two middle ones come just a little loose on me when i retorqued mine. You can retorque them as many times as you want also. But when you re-use them you will probably want to torque them a bit higher then last time since standard ARP's are torque-to-yeild bolts.

TTY should not be reused even when torquing higher i.e. stretching further. I thought ARP's were not TTY which was one of their major advantages over OEM replacements?

FattyBoomBatty · 05-12-2009

When I called ARP, they said you can measure the bolts to check for stretch, but it would only work if you measured them when they were new, then took them all out and did it again, but he said it won't be a problem to reuse them if they were fine.

4g63tcrazy · 05-12-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

TTY should not be reused even when torquing higher i.e. stretching further. I thought ARP's were not TTY which was one of their major advantages over OEM replacements?

Let me find a link for you real quick. They are TTY and the stock 1g bolts are actually stronger than standard ARP's too.

4g63tcrazy · 05-12-2009

Here is the link I believe.. The real info starts getting good on page 2.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showth...ht=arp+stretch

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-12-2009

Heres how you do it... Buy some L19s from me, remove the head, put in a new HG without copper spray, and torque to spec.

4g63tcrazy · 05-12-2009

..free of charge.

**scheides** · 05-12-2009

I can't believe I'm looking at these L19 headstuds for my car, what a joke. Standard arps should be just fine?!?! Does Arp make L19's as well, or is A1 the only company?

http://www.maperformance.com/a1-tech...-bolt-evo.html