beaterX project thread

[scheides]

Originally Posted by Mark Leasure

Nothing beats a 4K rpm power band. Why did you run pump gas through it?

If you scroll back a few pages there's some gunk building up on my intake valves, the intake ports, and the IM runners immediately opposite the injectors. I'm guessing I'm getting some form of the black e85 gunk build-up that some complain about. Car seemed a little down on power in December, so I ran a few tanks of gas through it based on the recommendation of Shane@DB, Aaron@ER, and a few others I trust (and it helped). Switched back to e70 for a while, and now I plan on putting a tank of BP93 through it every 4-6 weeks to help keep things squeeky clean.

[Murlo26]

Did you ever check to see if the first tank of pump gas cleaned them up at all? aka pull the intake mani again and look?

Just curious if the tank of pump for sure helps. If so might be good for quite a few of us to do.

[goodhart]

I ran a tank of pump through mine every month or two in my Evo also. When the buyer pulled the injectors he said he found no black gunk anywhere.

[asshanson]

Regular gas cleans up the junk right away. I had so much junk on an injector once that it basically clogged up. Ran a couple gallons of pump gas through the car and everything was looking brand new, didn't even take a full tank.

[Murlo26]

Originally Posted by Murlo26

Did you ever check to see if the first tank of pump gas cleaned them up at all? aka pull the intake mani again and look?

Just curious if the tank of pump for sure helps. If so might be good for quite a few of us to do.

Wondering if you ever checked this?

Also, when you hitting up DB again for Shane love?

[scheides]

Gonna check when I swap on some new bits here next week Need to make sure I have my ducks in a row before it hits the rollers. Work schedule is insane lately but the car is running great! I'll hit it when the time is right

[scheides]

Work has been killing me but I've plinked away at a few things on the car in my insanely limited free-time.

First off the car got insanely lazy...CEL told the whole story and after a few weeks of laggy laggy EF4 I got my hands on a used rear CAS...mivec does not work so hot without it I guess because it improved spool 500-800rpm (depending on the run)...the car is SO much more fun now, EF4 drives like my BBX:


Also noticed a clunk from the rear when leaving parking lots after I swapped on my summer tires a few weeks ago...turns out one of the rear sway-bar mounts loosened up a bit. Whiteline bar is looking healthy and the bushing was still there and fine, so 1/2 turn of each of the mount bolts did wonders!

I've been planning and planning and planning next-steps on the fuel system to keep up with the EF4 and I have good news: as of now I won't be doing hardly any of it! I picked up a Boomba fuel rail from MAP on Friday:



The thing looks nice and slick! I swapped it in in about 30 minutes and jimmy-rigged the stock fuel return line to work....but the thing leaked like a siv from the FPR After a weekend of drinking and running around finding o-rings and sealants and basically dinking around with this thing I realized that I am a dumb-ass and didn't read the directions....




I thought I was being all clever installing the FPR the way I did so I could have a nice clean return-line setup...I bought 4' of new fuel line and some new vacuum hose to make all of the lines perfect--uncluttered, not a ton of fittings and clamps to eventually leak on me:



And best of all, finished product (LOL):




So yea like I said, I was thinking I was all clever with the way I mounted the FPR 180° from how I'd seen Lomker mount his but it turns out there is a reason...there is no problem with the o-rings or sealant or anything, there is a problem with the clearance of the stock FPR bolted on the way I did it:



Notice the lip of the FPR hitting the body of the rail...GAH! it was tweaked and causing it to leak like crazy no matter what I tried with the o-ring. DOH. So I bent it up a bit and made sure it was all clamped nice, used the o-ring supplied and voila, no leaks and the nice new rail works great!

One thing I noticed when I was troubleshooting was that the housing of the FPR itself was sorta bent from the prying...I THINK I basically made my FPR a one-time adjustable FPR by slightly elongating the body because with the new rail and everything buttoned up my fuel pressure with the car idling and vacuum hooked up is 40-41...it was ~50 before on the walbro 400 pump....what does this mean? It means hell yes! My next step was going to be a full AFPR kit to try and lower fuel pressure and try to get a bit more flow out of this thing at high boost levels...

Well, here are the results...the car has more fuel everywhere but seems to be down a tish on power...I think the next step is dyno time as timing is still a bit all over the place but my main goal with the w400, dinking with the siphon, and this rail was more fuel and I got it!


*virtual dyno* don't read into this too much

The car should have enough fuel system now as we go from E70 to E85 here soon...hurray!

[Murlo26]

Looking good man! Glad the fuel rail helped out, maybe it is a restriction when you move up in power.

[scheides]

Luck ran out on the cheap/free UICP that came with the car (made by the place in SD)...got a leak on one of the welds



Boo. I just did da gheto-fix for now, I'll have to get it welded up after the cruise, only shitty thing is I gotta get it re-powdercoated too. Dayum.

But on the up side, look what I found in the alley! It has a flat tire, big woop!

some pins to lock the handle, a new tire, and some casters and it'll be bitchin

[goodhart]

Those tires pop off all the time. Just start fillin it with air and wiggle it around. It'll pop back on the bead.

[rose0529]

Nice find!

[scheides]

Originally Posted by goodhart

Those tires pop off all the time. Just start fillin it with air and wiggle it around. It'll pop back on the bead.

It looks like there's a tube in there, even though it says tubeless on the tire?

[goodhart]

Really? Just give it a shot anyways! The ones we had at my last job for wheeling around the welders would come off the bead constantly like that

[Halon]

Instead of powder coat you can just spray paint it with that rubbery spray I sprayed my piping with (forgot the name already, same stuff TKR was using on his engine bay). Then when it gets a little scrape or something, just spray a little more on and it blends in fairly well

[simulatedwood]

Does your upper pipe not have a flex section on the pipe for the engine rocking back and forth ? If not that could cause that pipe to crack from flexing on accel and decel. A suggestion would be to add a flex section for the engine "rock" right where it cracked and have the tube flanged on both ends. That way you don't need to re-powder coat.

[Kracka]

Hump couplers work quite well on single piece UICP's allowing for enough movement. That's how my Nisei and the Cobb piping kits are setup.

[simulatedwood]

Originally Posted by Kracka

Hump couplers work quite well on single piece UICP's allowing for enough movement. That's how my Nisei and the Cobb piping kits are setup.

Are the Cobb and nisei setups one piece construction or welded together aluminum pieces to form a single piece?

[scheides]

Quite the fun last few weeks with this thing.

Before the cruise, I did a boost leak test and found a few cracks in my POS UICP. It came on the car, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did...I patched it up with some coupler material and clamps and frankly I'm surprised it didn't break in half on the cruise.

Instead, the car ran 110% perfect for the first 175 miles or so and while passing a car from a stop sign (legally!) I grabbed second gear and thought I hit a bunch of gravel....turns out it was my accessory belt eating itself!



I shoved my wife into another car and then buckled down and with the help of my friends put that shredded belt back on! Limped the car 30 miles to Ashland and found a belt that was 103 5/8" (stock is 103 7/8"...that's like 8.5 feet, 1/4" should be fine eh?) and put it on in the hotel parking lot. Note to self emergency kit in my trunk does not have a 16mm wrench needed for actuating the tensioner. I did a few rips after and the car ran great!

Next morning the new belt ate itself after 40 miles but in a delightfully awesome way...one of the six ribs shredded off, leaving 5 full ribs. I actually drove the car for about 450 miles like this:


When I got back, I ordered up the Hyundai 4b11 pulleys that apparently fit....and are METAL NOT PLASTIC! Effing plastic pulleys, seriously mitsubishi? Reading online, it seems everyone commenting on these things failing is right around 40k miles, just like me. Effing silly.



Look how freaking worn those pulleys are! The one actually had a goddamn groove in it. No wonder the belt was walking off! So I put these on with some spacer washers as Shawn (simulatedwoodgrain) suggested per Murlo's car, but the belt was hanging off the inside edge...so I removed the spacers and left them as they came out of the box (but with the mitsu bolts) and swapped pulleys around to put the best plastic one on the tensioner. I'd love to put a metal one there, but I don't think it'll fit...will order up a new plastic one sometime here and have it handy.


Work has been extra-insane the last week but I managed to stumble across this deal on evoM:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evox-sa...5-shipped.html

I LOL'd and brushed it off, but then thought to myself, fuk it! Easy fix for my UICP...instead of just welding mine and getting it re-powdercoated, I'd get a new one! So a few bucks later this is at my door:


Came with t-bolt clamps and nice couplers, even a nice long reducer for the turbo outlet:



Dyno day saturday so no time to get this thing powdercoated...slapped it in tonight:

(note, after taking this pic I got the pipe to sit lower and closer to the radiator support by pushing it down into the hump coupler more, fits perfect!)

I must say, the old pipe must have been leaking a LOT because the car feels freaking awesome! I'm excited to see what she puts down on Saturday!

[Murlo26]

I ran my car with an entire rib missing for like 500 miles as well. I didn't even notice for like 250 miles. Silly system.

Glad to see you have gotten your shit straight! Can't wait to see it on the dyno. I'll let you max the EF4, I am going to play it safe

[turbotalon1g]

Nice, that reducer coupler has a nice transition who made it?

EDIT* I checked your other thread, nice price compared to the other guys!