problem - Page 3

**JET** · 02-13-2005

Sounds like Mike was right, you probably have bent exhaust valves. It could be bad seals too.

john · 02-13-2005

New seals were installed. I have no idea how the damn valves got bent. I bolted the head down with each piston at mid stroke, the timing was set right, and the head was checked before for bad valves as it came off a car I got with the timing off a couple of teeth....

A//// Guy · 02-13-2005

So after the car quit while tuning you didnt check to see if timing was off? If it was that is how your valves are bent. My car skipped 2 teeth last year and it still ran but I could hear metal hitting while it was running. I got lucky and there was no damage, just knicks. I didnt take the head off (boroscope). I just redid the timing belt with a new one and that worked.

LightningGSX · 02-14-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by EclipseTurbo

So after the car quit while tuning you didnt check to see if timing was off? If it was that is how your valves are bent. My car skipped 2 teeth last year and it still ran but I could hear metal hitting while it was running. I got lucky and there was no damage, just knicks. I didnt take the head off (boroscope). I just redid the timing belt with a new one and that worked.

They put a rebuilt head on after the original tuning incident

john · 02-14-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightningGSX

They put a rebuilt head on after the original tuning incident

Yep. The problem was not tuning related. A sensor gave out (CAS or somthing). Car just had no spark. To replace the crank or cam sensor, the cam would need to come off or the lower timing cover would need to come off. That justified pulling the head, ARPs, new HG, 1g head, etc.

john · 02-14-2005

Head is off. There are still no indentations on the pistons. BTW, adding oil to the cylinders did not help compression before. I could not get over 50 psi compression in the only cylinder I tested (#4).

LightningGSX · 02-15-2005

Before you put it back together, get yourself a new torque wrench, its probably way off.You can't store those with the spring wound, you need to turn it back to zero or below.Like I told your brother when I was there, I wouldn't be surprised if the head just wasn't torqued down correctly or maybe it warped from being incorrectly torqued.

john · 02-15-2005

No, there would not have been enough heat to do anything to the head. The HG was/is fine. The leakdown test confirmed that the HG did not leak. I plan on getting another TQ wrench anyhow to replace the POS I have. I always torque the head studs to 105 with ARP lube to assure I am torquing them tight enough. I also stood there and made sure he torqued them in the correct sequence (60ft lbs first then to 105). HG was not a problem but the torque wrench is on order right now and I should get it in at work today

LightningGSX · 02-15-2005

Heat is not the only thing that can warp a head.

Raptor · 02-15-2005

You don't need to go to 105 on the head studs. On motors that are not torque plated to that spec, you are making an OOR condition with the cylinder. We typically have them torque plated at 100 and of course set them to that when building them. The ARP studs will stretch at not much above 105. Pistons usually prefer round holes. That of course has nothing to do with the problems you are dealing with, just something to think about for future reference.

john · 02-19-2005

The car will no longer crank. James assembled everything himself, but the starter does not crank. It is an electrical issue. There is plenty of oil in the car and the timing is on and has been rotated several times. The car clicks and makes a humming sound when the ignition is turned. I pulled the starter for him and it was tested to be weak but still works. I checked the signal wire for the starter and there is no voltage present. Does anyone have a wiring schematic to see where the possible problem could be in the circuit? Is there some connector he could have forgotten? All of the CAS, power transistor, coil, etc are plugged in. I tested all of the fuses under the hood and they were all fine. James said he read something about the starter relay switch going out but he could not find it in the car. It is supposedly by the radio new to the fuel pump relay... I have no idea. Anyone know where this relay is? Any idea on how to test it? I guess I could just steal it off the other 2g but.... I haven't looked at it other than a quick once over of the wiring and testing the fuses and starter. I will have tomorrow to try and figure this out. Please help ASAP. Thanks, John.

LightningGSX · 02-19-2005

Low battery?

john · 02-19-2005

No. Fully charged and it was I also tried running it off the charger also. There is no signal at the starter wire...

desolate · 02-19-2005

double check everything

john · 02-20-2005

Well, since nobody has any advice and I could not find a wire schematic, I ran a wire off the ignition to the signal wire on the starter (ofcourse I fused it). The car will now crank but spark is fucked up again. Only two ports on the coil put out spark. I have checked two coils now and it is the same. They would be coils 1+4 on a 1g. 3+4 do not put out any spark. I will try yet another coil on it tomorrow but both the other two worked fine when the head was pulled. Any idea???

**JET** · 02-21-2005

Caps in the ECU?

dsm95gsxer · 02-21-2005

When I put my car back together after a head gasket install (95 gsx) I forgot one of the grounds on the battery terminal (it tucked itself behind the battery) and would not start.

john · 02-21-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

Caps in the ECU?

I will try another ecu. I will just have to swap the chip into the other socceted one.

john · 02-21-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsm95gsxer

When I put my car back together after a head gasket install (95 gsx) I forgot one of the grounds on the battery terminal (it tucked itself behind the battery) and would not start.

Not the problem here.

slowbubblecar · 02-23-2005

still no spark in 2 and 3 cylinders. On the next rebuilt head, the compression is 115-148-130-120. The car cranks slowly. I am seriously considering putting the restrictive stock 2g head back on. The compression was 175 across before. What do you think? I will have to do another leak down test again.

It is not the ecu either. Tryed another working one.