Engine Clanking -WTF!!! - Page 6

**Halon** · 08-22-2008

Thanks. There is still a squirter in #1, so it must be from one of the other cylinders. The other cylinders seemed to be fairly debris free though, like not much metal flakes/chunks got in them. I wonder if that thing has been broken off and laying in there for a long time...

**Goat Blower** · 08-22-2008

Just one more reason I didn't bother with oil squirters in my 2.4 builds. They are so delicate from the factory, it's not uncommon for them to just snap off for no reason. If I do build another motor for something specific like the standing mile, I'll probably adapt some from the LS7 motors.

I'm here, feel free to stop by B-dawggy.

**Halon** · 08-22-2008

Steve, I'm going to stop by shortly I think. I found that the squirter was from the #2 cylinder, and I just got the rest of the squirter assembly out. So now I just need to locate someone with a spare oil squirter.

**Halon** · 08-22-2008

Just bought a barely used single Eagle rod off someone on the link forums for $75 shipped!

MAP is able to order me a new single Mahle piston. Just have to make sure I get the correct overbore size before I do it.

The other 3 pistons/rods are removed and they all look to be in good shape as far as I can tell.

I may be able to have this thing back up and running quicker than I thought

polishmafia · 08-22-2008

Great to hear!

**Kracka** · 08-22-2008

Thats good news!

turbotalon1g · 08-22-2008

badass, glad to hear.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 08-22-2008

Awesome, I'm glad you're getting it squared away!

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 08-22-2008

Will the piston be given away as a door prize at the cookout?

brando · 08-22-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

Will the piston be given away as a door prize at the cookout?

hope so

**Halon** · 08-23-2008

I actually do plan on bringing it to the dyno day

**Halon** · 08-23-2008

Left the swap meet today at DB with a 2G head for cheap, thanks a ton Andrew!!! I'm going to be bringing it up to Northern Cylinder Head up here in the Blaine area and have him check it out and deck it if need be. Also will be porting the intake runners to match to my SMIM.

**Halon** · 08-25-2008

Rod showed up today in the mail. Still looks like it's new!!

**Halon** · 10-13-2008

OK so I have:

-1 slightly used Eagle Rod
-New Mahle piston/rings
-New ACL Race bearings
-2G head from Andrew (thanks again man), w/ Crower Springs/retainers. Currently getting a make-over by Northern Cylinder Head located in Andover. Jet will also be doing some port work to it.

I'm getting ready to put it all back together. I have a question regarding what to file the ring gaps too. Any recommendations out there?

EclipseGST · 10-14-2008

You had MAP build the motor originally didnt you? They should have the paperwork on it stating what they were originally gapped at. I would give them a call or email and see what they have to say.

Try to keep it the same even though its new.

**Halon** · 10-22-2008

OK got the ring measurements from MAP.

Now, I'm looking at cleaning the crap out of the motor with some contact cleaner, and then begin reassembly. I have NEVER done this before, and I have questions.

1: The old rod bearings looked pretty decent, but I bought new ACL Race bearings that I want to throw in anyway just to be safe. What do you guys use to lube them? I've read everything from just oil, to moly lube, to white lithium grease. And do you lube both sides of the bearings? Also, I keep reading that you have to check the bearing clearance, but I have never used plastigauge before either. Anyone care to try and explain? Then if I figure out how to use it, and the clearance is wrong, well then what the hell do I do?

2. Do I need to lube the cylinder walls and piston skirts? Remember that 3 of these are still the same pistons/rings that came out, and are going right back in without any changes.

3. Do I have to lube the piston/rod pin before I put it in?

EclipseGST · 10-22-2008

1. Yes, I would highly suggest using new bearings. You're already in there and I dont think you can just buy bearings for 1 rod, so might as well replace them all. I use "Lubriplate" assembly grease. Comes in a white bottle with a blue cap. Lube the side that touches the crank ONLY. If you lube the other side, chances are the bearing with spin. Make sure you clean them up really well before installing. Even though they are packaged good, they can still have dirt on them. Basically by cleaning them up you are inspecting them for any defects or damages.

Plasti-gauge is pretty simple. Find out the factory clearance, get the correct plasti-gauge, assemble the crank/rods/block DRY. DO NOT... READ: DO FUCKING NOT turn the crank over dry. I'm guessing you are replacing the main bearings too? Or is the crank still bolted into the block, untouched? Disassemble and check the plasti-gauge with the gauge on the packaging that it comes in. I'm sure it will be in spec. If not, measure the bearings seeing those are the easiest to fuck up, then check crank journal and rod journal sizes. Go from there.

2. Use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Put some on a non-dust/lint rag/towel and wipe out the cylinders for any dirt/debris. Coat the entire piston in ATF, rings and all. I usually cut a QT bottle in half and dunk the whole piston in, rings and all while attached to the rod and the rod is sticking out of the container. Lube up all 4 as its much easier to work with it even though the other 3 are used. It doesnt hurt anything, just makes things much easier and better safe then sorry.

3. Are you putting the piston on the rod yourself? Minor lube on the pin will help, DO NOT force the pin into the piston/rod with a hammer or any other type of tooling. Easiest way I found was throw the pin in the freezer for 20mins, then heat the rod slightly with a torch, dont get it red, just warm. Put the pin lock rings in one side of the piston, when the rod is ready, the pin should slip right in and sit against the lock ring, then just put the lock rings in the other side and you should be good to go. Just make sure there isnt much side to side play and the piston/rod move freely. Compare to the 3 used ones.

Disclaimer: This is just part of my methods/techniques, they are my opinion, some have different ways of doing things. I'm not saying these ways are the only or best way of doing it. I just found it to be the way I am most comfortable with. Take them as you wish. Good luck!

brando · 10-23-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by EclipseGST

1. Yes, I would highly suggest using new bearings. You're already in there and I dont think you can just buy bearings for 1 rod, so might as well replace them all. I use "Lubriplate" assembly grease. Comes in a white bottle with a blue cap. Lube the side that touches the crank ONLY. If you lube the other side, chances are the bearing with spin. Make sure you clean them up really well before installing. Even though they are packaged good, they can still have dirt on them. Basically by cleaning them up you are inspecting them for any defects or damages.

Plasti-gauge is pretty simple. Find out the factory clearance, get the correct plasti-gauge, assemble the crank/rods/block DRY. DO NOT... READ: DO FUCKING NOT turn the crank over dry. I'm guessing you are replacing the main bearings too? Or is the crank still bolted into the block, untouched? Disassemble and check the plasti-gauge with the gauge on the packaging that it comes in. I'm sure it will be in spec. If not, measure the bearings seeing those are the easiest to fuck up, then check crank journal and rod journal sizes. Go from there.

2. Use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Put some on a non-dust/lint rag/towel and wipe out the cylinders for any dirt/debris. Coat the entire piston in ATF, rings and all. I usually cut a QT bottle in half and dunk the whole piston in, rings and all while attached to the rod and the rod is sticking out of the container. Lube up all 4 as its much easier to work with it even though the other 3 are used. It doesnt hurt anything, just makes things much easier and better safe then sorry.

3. Are you putting the piston on the rod yourself? Minor lube on the pin will help, DO NOT force the pin into the piston/rod with a hammer or any other type of tooling. Easiest way I found was throw the pin in the freezer for 20mins, then heat the rod slightly with a torch, dont get it red, just warm. Put the pin lock rings in one side of the piston, when the rod is ready, the pin should slip right in and sit against the lock ring, then just put the lock rings in the other side and you should be good to go. Just make sure there isnt much side to side play and the piston/rod move freely. Compare to the 3 used ones.

Disclaimer: This is just part of my methods/techniques, they are my opinion, some have different ways of doing things. I'm not saying these ways are the only or best way of doing it. I just found it to be the way I am most comfortable with. Take them as you wish. Good luck!

i do pretty much the same thing. i usually dont coat the piston's in anything tho coating the cylender's is usually goo enough most the time we dont even do that

dsm9sec · 10-23-2008

I coat the cylinder walls with regular oil, whatever's laying around.

Forcing the pin into the rod? I've never rebuilt a stock block and I'm sure Brandon's using forged pistons/rods. But yeah, usually the machine shop does it with a press and a torch.

Brandon, if the clearance is wrong for rod bearings I'd just buy new rods. You may be able to have them line honed though. If the mains are out of spec then you need to get the block line honed.

Also when you're doing final assembly, tap the crank with a brass hammer to seat the thrust bearing properly. I know someone who didn't and he crank walked the shit out of his motor.

**Halon** · 10-23-2008

The mains are NOT getting replaced. The crank is still in the car, in the block, untouched.

Thanks for the pointers, hopefully I can make some progress this weekend.

Yes I was planning on putting the rod/piston together myself. It's a Mahle piston on an Eagle Rod, floating pin style.