The Lady. IIRA Ice race/ weekend warrior car

[Ryze]

Well I'm sort of new here, so let me start out by introducing myself.
Name is Ryan. I joined here back in 09 when I had a 1G FWD turbo eclipse as a daily driver, was completely stock.
I am back now because I just recently picked up a 93 Eclipse GSX, that has been prepped for NASA PTC class (road racing). I purchased it to ice race with the IIRA (http://iceracemn.com) for more information on the series.
I have been ice racing for about 6-7 years now and with the recent years not having much luck with reliability in a Subaru, I decided to pick this car up.



Details about this car
All-wheel drive
'93 shell
6 bolt motor
2689 lbs without driver or fuel
193+ whp on 12 lbs boost
White interior and exterior
Currently raced on 93 octane pump gas


Engine:

Stock 2.0 liter DOHC motor with balance shafts removed.
Was rebuilt at beginning of 2007 season.

It has seen 9 race weekends.
Head is shaved
ARP head studs
16G turbo
Manual boost adjuster
Ported Exhaust manifold
3" downpipe Custom open exhaust to rear
2G MAF
Apexi AFC controller (5 knob)
Aftermarket fuel injectors (size unknown)
Walbro 190 fuel pump
Magnecor 8.5 mm ignition wires
K&N air filter
Custom pipe between intercooler and throttle body with 1G BOV
Urethane motor/tranny mounts
relocated stainless turbo oil feed line
Earlier 1G oil cooler (fin-type)
5W-40 synthetic oil

Drivetrain:

Stock 5 speed transaxle rebuilt at beginning
of 2007 season
Archer Racing center diff
Short throw shift kit
ACT 2600 clutch
stainless cluth hydraulic line
Factory 3 bolt rear LSD
Red Line fluids used

Suspension:

'Muellerized' JIC dampers/coilovers with full race spring rates and camber plates
Offset poly bushings on front lower control arms
15/16" rear sway bar
Front strut bar (bolt-on)
Rear strut bar (weld-in)
Front camber -2.5
Rear camber -1.5
0 toe front and rear
Cross weighted at 50%
Momo steering wheel


Brakes:

Front calipers: Wilwood aluminum 4 pot
Front rotors: Wilwood 13" x 1.25"
Polymatrix H and B compounds front pads
Stock rear calipers with functioning hand brake
Porterfield rear brake pads
Adjustable rear brake bias
ABS removed
Brake master cylinder stiffening bracket
Stainless brake lines at corners
ATE Racing brake fluid used


Wheels/Tires:

4 Enkei RP03 Racing wheels 17x8.5 w/ 35 mm offset

Miscellaneous:

Carbon fiber hood vent
Oil temp gauge
Volt meter
Boost gauge
Baffled gas tank with modified low fuel light
Interior gutted except for dash
HVAC functional
A/C removed


Race specific:

Autopower 6 point bolt-in rollcage
(SCCA and NASA legal)
2.5 fire bottle bolted to passenger floor
Wink mirror
Optima red top battery relocated to rear
Kill switch mounted in dash
Doors gutted and glass removed
hood release cable removed;
2 hood pins installed
Hood gutted
Bumpers removed
Sunroof deleted via sheet metal and rivets
weld-in bung on downpipe for wide-band 02 sensor
intermediate driveshaft safety wired
turbo safety wired


I received the car July 13,2014. I purchased it without any of the safety equipment (seat, harness or window nets) Luckily I had all these items in my garage from my Subaru.

I immediately took inventory of all my spare parts, and what I need to get the car ready for IIRA ice racing in January.

July 14, 2014
I installed window nets and started planning on what I need to do to install the seats. I also removed all the sound deadening from the floors.


What parts I need
passenger side wiper arm
HVAC knobs
stock headlights
stock driver side seat rail
stock 14" wheels
base eclipse front brakes


I would like to sell the front brakes/ rear pads with spares.
and the wheels as these are not needed for ice racing at all


Things I need to take care of before hitting the ice
Mount seats
Mount fire extinguisher
fix blower motor
wire headlights/tail lights/ aux lights
mount harnesses
install wideband
remove injectors and get them cleaned and flowed
(hopefully) purchase DSMlink and tune
fix oil leak at the turbo drain tube gasket at oil pan
(hopefully) get a FMIC
install radio system
install datalogging system
remove rear glass and replace with plastic
make removable front windows with plastic
front splitter
sideskirts
rear lip wing
install stock base brakes
replace all fluids.
Remove misc weight.

Here is a few more pictures for your enjoyment





I will keep this updated as things go on. if anyone has any of the parts I am looking for LMK asap.

Thanks
Ryan

[Goat Blower]

14" wheels? I think even the base Laser had 15's, which is probably the minimum to fit stock AWD brakes.

[typeRA]

what kind of subaru were you racing? I'm pretty deep in that world.

[Ryze]

Originally Posted by Goat Blower

14" wheels? I think even the base Laser had 15's, which is probably the minimum to fit stock AWD brakes.

According to tire rack the base model had 14"s


i had a ej20g swapped impreza coupe

[typeRA]

Originally Posted by Ryze

i had a ej20g swapped impreza coupe

cool, so did I. I was the guy running around with code on the stock jecs ecu with rotational idle and antilag

[goodhart]

This thing is AWESOME. I like the plans!

I have all those parts you need except the wheels on my n/t fwd shell also. Car is in Isanti if you wanna come get some stuff

[scheides]

Cool!!! Can't wait to see epic studded tires on this thing.

[Ryze]

Pm'd you goodhart

Scheides. IIRA only always 30 studs per linear foot on the tire, protruding 3/16". So the en tires arent as crazy as you would see in other forms of ice racing

[tehehodi]

Awesome! Should be a blast. Do they do track days on some of those tracks? I want to get studded tires for my dirty bike.

[Ryze]

Between the door to door races there is 20 min lapping sessions for non race ready cars. Studded, street studs or rubber to ice is okay. But I think it's cars only not bikes

[JET]

Do you play league of legends too? Car is in really good shape, have fun!

[Ryze]

League of legends? No idea what that is

[JET]

Alrighty, one of the characters is Ryze :P

[Ryze]

7/17/14
Well did some research and some work tonight.
Started by removing the disconnected EGR valve to make a block off plate. I got it cut out of metal but forgot my drill at work so couldn't finish it.
After that I removed the cruise control throttle cable in anticipation to install a non cruise cable I thought I had, but after I removed it found out its just part of the cruise control cable..so now I need to find a non cruise control cable :/


I've been intrigued by aerodynamics of race cars for awhile, and I have been ice racing for ~6 years now and have always been curious why no one runs any sort or aero. The general consensus is with lower average speeds aero is not necessary. My argument is that auto-x cars use aero to help with grip with generally lower average speeds. Why can't we use it to benefit on the ice. With high slip angles, higher than even rally cars what aerodynamic devices should I consider.
I have been thinking about making a aggressive spoiler, similar to CSP cars in auto-x or Nascar
IE
Also making some side skirts and front splitter to help with the front.

During ice racing the straights we can see speeds in excess of 100mph, and as you can guess that speed on ice the car is unsettled. Driving on the studs at that speed, you get a feeling like your floating, and unfortunately the tires really only work if you are on the gas so you have to keep your foot in it. My THEORY is that MAYBE we can over come some of that instability with some added downforce, again this is mostly theory because there hasn't been much in proof that it'll work. For now I'm looking for 1G's that have benefited from some sort of aero.

[goodhart]

Rock auto has non cruise cables for~ $25 shipped

[Ryze]

Alright here is an update.
I haven't been doing to much to it lately. I am going to vegas in 2 weeks and I figured I better not spend to much money on this thing right now. Hopefully I can finish it completely with my winnings when I come home
how it sits right now


Anyways, since this thing was rebuilt in 2007 and has been solely raced since, I wanted to check the health of the engine.
I am a full time auto technician, and I tend to have a few more fancy tools than the standard guy, mostly because I am lazy and would rather work smarter than harder.
Snap on Modis scantool/4 channel scope

1000amp current clamp

Snap on 500psi pressure transducer

With these three tools I can check the general health quickly and easily.

Let me explain, with the use of the scope and the pressure transducer in cylinder one I can check the cranking psi of cylinder one, and with the amp clamp around the starter cable I can check the amperage draw to the starter as the engine turns.
As the engine turns and reaches a compression stroke the starter will draw more amperage. Now you can't see this with a standard meter you can't see this but this is how it appears on a scope

The yellow trace is cranking compression. You can see one single compression stroke on cylinder 1 is well over 100psi (this is pretty outstanding for a low compression ratio engine)
The green trace is amperage to the starter. You can see that ALL cylinders are relatively the same compression. (#1 is slightly lower because of the extra volume from the compression hose attached to the sensor) Also notice that cylinder 2 is slightly lower (higher than #1 but lower than 3 and 4). Not much but it is.
This engine runs smoothly and I'm not sure I am completely worried about this yet.

Next up, I re-installed the spark plug and let the engine idle.
I used a FLS (first look sensor) to take a look at the injectors. This type of sensor is used to see pulses. It is a pressure sensor but doesn't measure pressure, it measures differences in pressure. I attached this to the nipple on the fuel pressure regulator where the vacuum line would go.

You can see 4 distinct pulses. What these show is that when the fuel injector opens, pressure in the rail drops slightly and sends a pulse through the rail. This sensor is sensitive enough to feel the pulse and send a voltage signal to it. If we were to have a bad injector or one that is not flowing as much as the other we would see a difference in each pulse.

Next with the engine running, I attached the FLS sensor into the vacuum hose going into the intake manifold and a lead to #1 spark plug wire to know when it was firing. Again the FLS can see the pulse when the intake valves open and close

Again we see a discrepancy with cylinder #2 this time it is not pulling air as much as the rest. I may have to dig deeper into this, but this engine runs so good as is we will see how much time and money I have to go further with it.

Next up I need to take care of this oil leak
Seems to be coming from the turbo drain to pan gasket, luckily there is another one with the boxes of spares I got. I just need to order up some amsoil so I can drain the oil and replace it.

[Goat Blower]

I don't know how many times I've replaced that gasket, it always leaks a little bit.

[Ryze]

yeah that's why i assume it came with spare gaskets and a extra 2g drain tube

[s1ngletracker]

oooh, so you're the one that bought Lafavor's car. He tried to get me to buy it for a long time but I'm not a fan of bolt-in cages.

Cool snap-on tools!