Engine Oil - Page 7

**asshanson** · 05-19-2009

I wish there was info on the non-synthetics like that. Also wish it included info on the oil after being run the equivalent of 5k miles or something. But a good read though.

**Kracka** · 06-10-2009

I found some good info on Mobil's website, including this:

Question:
Oil Film Strength of Mobil 1 Compared with Royal Purple
Does Mobil 1 have less oil film strength than Royal Purple? I have seen many times the friction test of oils using the machine that test the oil film, test result shows that Royal Purple has more friction protection that Mobil 1 does, seeing these results makes me think that Mobil 1 is lacking some benefits, therefore Royal Purple has the better protection of all.
-- Guillermo Tristani, Miami, OR
Answer:
There are certain oils in the market today that use EP (extreme pressure) additives in their engine oil that are really designed for gear oils and not engine oils. Extreme pressure additives are typically not used in engine oils for a number of reasons but the most important is because they can cause engine corrosion over time. The rigs being used in these demonstrations are primarily designed for industrial applications like gear oils where extreme pressure is an important performance feature you need. These demonstration rigs have very little to do with modern engines and that is the reason that market leading oils in the industry perform poorly in these tests.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Strength.aspx

Lots of other good answers on there too if you have time to read through it all.

95talonracer · 06-10-2009

Amsoil!

stickyphoenix · 06-16-2009

I'm putting Rotella in Emma's ass next oil change. conventional, since that's all she's known.

**goodhart** · 06-25-2009

Just heard about this stuff on the TV show Cut Chop Rebuild today, kinda wonder if it's any good?

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil-rh.html

**Kracka** · 06-25-2009

I don't trust anything from Royal Purple. If you want a good engine break-in oil use any of the conventional high mileage oils since they contain much more moly than traditional oil. Some manufacturers (Honda for example) add extra moly to the factory fill oil.

stikx · 05-27-2010

Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?

I'm seeing a lot of people use it in their built motors, especially the 20 W 50. its a lot cheaper than amsoil race oil and more available.

**Kracka** · 05-27-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by stikx

Brad Penn motor oil?? thoughts?

I'm seeing a lot of people use it in their built motors, especially the 20 W 50. its a lot cheaper than amsoil race oil and more available.

There is nothing special about Pennsylvania crude if you ask me; all the base stocks are refined so heavily it doesn't matter in the end. You'll find the main differences between oils comes down to the additive package, not the actual petroleum. If you're looking for a quality conventional there are cheaper alternatives out there.

C89ZX7R · 05-30-2010

***Do NOT use Rotella T6 if you have Cat Converters on the car*** T6 has a high level of Zinc which will destroy the converter!

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-30-2010

Do not run Mobile 1 5w30, if you are making more than stock HP and don't want to spin a rod bearing or put a rod through your block. I personally wouldn't run any brand 5w30 or any Mobile 1 anymore. 4G63s are a bit more forgiving than some motors when it comes to oil, but I recommend most people run at least a 10w40 in the Summer.

**cmspaz** · 05-30-2010

RotellaT it is, then.

My car somehow manages to burn Mobil 1, I'm down a qt over 3k, so I'm definitely up for a switch.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 05-30-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmspaz

My car somehow manages to burn Mobil 1, I'm down a qt over 3k, so I'm definitely up for a switch.

All kinds of cars do that, it's crap.

C89ZX7R · 05-30-2010

Last car was a 2004 STi. Mobil 1 is CRAP! Number one leading cause to spun bearings in the subie community!

stikx · 05-30-2010

Will 10w30 be fine for summer? I bought a case of amsoil dominator race oil. Car won't be driven in the winter.

turbotalon1g · 05-30-2010

I run valvoline conventional 5w-30 then switch to 10w30 when it gets hot, I try to get rotella if its in the right weight, but I have been unlucky.

95talonracer · 05-31-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by stikx

Will 10w30 be fine for summer? I bought a case of amsoil dominator race oil. Car won't be driven in the winter.

Yes it is just fine to run that. The lightest oil I run all of the time which I only drive my car in the summer anyways is Amsoil 20w-50.

**Halon** · 05-31-2010

I run straight crude oil. BP is practically giving it away right now.

311evo · 05-31-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

I run straight crude oil. BP is practically giving it away right now.

LOL. We should make a roadtrip down there with a boat and a few buckets. Theyre giving away free lifetime supply.

**goodhart** · 06-02-2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

Do not run Mobile 1 5w30, if you are making more than stock HP and don't want to spin a rod bearing or put a rod through your block. I personally wouldn't run any brand 5w30 or any Mobile 1 anymore. 4G63s are a bit more forgiving than some motors when it comes to oil, but I recommend most people run at least a 10w40 in the Summer.

I just noticed this thread had been bumped recently.

I just talked to Dan, the owner of the Blue 2JZ MKIII, and he said that his car was running Mobil1 when it spun the bearings. I think it ended up being like 1 rod bearing and 3 main bearings.

Super Bleeder!! · 06-02-2010

I've always ran mobil1 15w-40 in my dsm during the warm months.