my new project - Page 4

Super Bleeder!! · 12-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Just a boost actuated valve that blocks off one scroll of a divided turbo, effectively reducing the AR of it (which we all know increases spool) until boost kicks in and it opens up allowing both scrolls to flow when at full boost.

Id like to get one but they are expensive.

It doesnt really reduce the A/R ratio does it? I thought it just blocked off a port and thus the gases get forced through the open port at a much greater speed.

**goodhart** · 12-05-2012

If gases only go through one scroll vs. two it would effectively cut the A/R in half would it not?

Edit, FP is having Holiday sales on their BB 3788 ($1700), BB 3794 ($1700, JB 4294 ($1500), and JB 4205 ($1500) turbos. All are T4.

Ball bearing

Journal bearing

**4seasons69** · 12-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Just a boost actuated valve that blocks off one scroll of a divided turbo, effectively reducing the AR of it (which we all know increases spool) until boost kicks in and it opens up allowing both scrolls to flow when at full boost.

Id like to get one but they are expensive.

Hmmm how well do they actually work? And how expensive lol? It might be something worth trying since I'm going to be running a 2.0l. I'll have to look into them

Super Bleeder!! · 12-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

If gases only go through one scroll vs. two it would effectively cut the A/R in half would it not?

Hmm i spose that is what the A (cross sectional) stands for doesnt it?

Now that i think about it A/Rs on divided exhaust housing are kind of strange to compare because they realistically have a separate A/R for each scroll. Hmmm brains.

When i said what i said above i didnt have a dual scroll exhaust housing in mind. now i do!

Carry on!

**4seasons69** · 12-05-2012

Also I will probably be running a gt42 style turbo with a top mount manifold so I might run into fitment issues with the hood

**goodhart** · 12-05-2012

FWIW, a friend of mine runs a QSV on his poopra with a Comp billet 67mm. I believe he said it cut roughly 5-600 rpm off his spool time when it was setup correctly.

**4seasons69** · 12-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

FWIW, a friend of mine runs a QSV on his poopra with a Comp billet 67mm. I believe he said it cut roughly 5-600 rpm off his spool time when it was setup correctly.

If I could pick up 5-600rpm that would be worth it to me but they look kind of thick so idk if fitment would work but ill look into it

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 12-05-2012

Switch to DSMLink.

**4seasons69** · 12-05-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance

Switch to DSMLink.

That is something I would really like to do. But i have no idea what all would need to be done to switch. This car has been such a headache already that I don't really want to try and deal with figuring out how to switch over right now. Plus money is starting to become a factor in what I do with it right now. So for now I will probably have to run aem still next summer and switch to link next winter

**Halon** · 12-05-2012

I've never used one first-hand, so couldn't speak on any sort of actual RPM increase. I think they are in the 300-400 dollar range.

Check out youtube videos of Sound Performance Supra's, they have some where they compare with and without QSV dyno charts.

Flopster, I think you figured it out on your own

But if anyone else is still confused, yes you reduce the "A" by blocking off one of the scrolls. So if you're A/R was .90 (90/100), and you block off one port, you would have reduced the A (90) to a lower number say 50. So your A/R is now .50 (50/100). I am not a mechanical/math master, so I don't know if it's exactly cut in half or what. But it is significantly reduced.

**4seasons69** · 12-15-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Halon

Are you going divided?

I just checked my manifold is already divided so I think a QSV is out

Quote:

Originally Posted by goodhart

If gases only go through one scroll vs. two it would effectively cut the A/R in half would it not?

Edit, FP is having Holiday sales on their BB 3788 ($1700), BB 3794 ($1700, JB 4294 ($1500), and JB 4205 ($1500) turbos. All are T4.

Ball bearing

Journal bearing

Idk how I missed this but I think the jb hta4294 would be a good realistic option too. If I had the funds right now that bb3794 would be a real option too that's a good deal!

**4seasons69** · 12-15-2012

Here's a little update. On the engine I have basically everything I can assemble right now minus the manifolds. And still waiting on funds to have the cams degreed and get the couple parts needed to put her back in.

I was feeling kind of ambitious today so instead of buying a full blown pump hanger I decided to rewire mine with 10g wire. I got the stock plastic plug where the stock wires go into the sender out and drilled it bigger then ran then 10g wire in and jb welded it closed. This should help a lot with the voltage drop to the pumps almost all the crimp connectors in the tank were loose and it was 14g wire in the tank. I used crimp connectors to connect them to the pumps but I also soldered them so they can't loosen up. It will also get rid of the multiple connections coming in and out of the sender as well as using the rusty sender as a ground. There are also multiple wire size changes coming into and out of the fuel pump relay. I will be rewiring all of that too so there is a good clean power supply to the pumps.

carltalon · 12-16-2012

Hanger looks good. I always thought thr full blown was a waste of money.

**4seasons69** · 12-16-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by carltalon

Hanger looks good. I always thought thr full blown was a waste of money.

Thanks! Yeah the full blown one looks nice but for the little bit I have into supplies I think this will function just fine once I'm done with rewiring the relay

**Halon** · 12-16-2012

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc40...ke-a-look.html

That's like a sore dick, can't beat that shit!

**4seasons69** · 12-16-2012

Damn! I wish I had the funds! I might have to see what I can do to scrape some up

URV8SUX · 12-16-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

Idk how I missed this but I think the jb hta4294 would be a good realistic option too. If I had the funds right now that bb3794 would be a real option too that's a good deal!

Holy fuck you do know there 67mm that flow more and cost a lot less?

**4seasons69** · 12-16-2012

I

Quote:

Originally Posted by URV8SUX

Holy fuck you do know there 67mm that flow more and cost a lot less?

Yes I do but the car already had a gt4294 on it so something like fp's jb hta4294 (which is a billet 67mm 4294) will bolt right up and work with my intake and exhaust. If I go with something like a pte jb cea6766 sure it's cheaper at around 1100 bucks but then I will have to have a new intake and exhaust made so in the end it will still probably be around 1500

**4seasons69** · 12-16-2012

I put some new strainers on the pumps and got the sending unit installed and rewired the relay to day. I just need some eyelets so I can finish the grounds for the pumps. It's all cleaned up now. Unfortunately I forgot to take before pictures

URV8SUX · 12-16-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

I

Yes I do but the car already had a gt4294 on it so something like fp's jb hta4294 (which is a billet 67mm 4294) will bolt right up and work with my intake and exhaust. If I go with something like a pte jb cea6766 sure it's cheaper at around 1100 bucks but then I will have to have a new intake and exhaust made so in the end it will still probably be around 1500

I was not talking about the pte 6766 but it does flow more.

If you want something that bolts right up have you thought about sending your turbo to pte and getting the 72mm billet wheel put on it?