255 walbro Fuel Pump Install

adidasdudegst · 08-31-2009

Ok, so I did some searching, and didn't exactly find what I needed... So when I have the car under accelerating boost around 13-16 psi on the stock turbo, sometimes the car lurches and backfires... I am under assumption, that is because I have the stock fuel pump still... I am correct?

So, if I were to install a new walbro 255 fuel pump, would I have to get a pressure regulator as well, or will the fuel pump just be able to be dropped in?

GsXtUrBo98 · 08-31-2009

You dont need a fpr.. Also, It depends on your setup. We need to know what your running because it sounds like your hitting fuel cut.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 08-31-2009

We need to know more about your setup. What year is it? Do you have any mods? Have you done a boost leak test recently?

slowbubblecar · 08-31-2009

Installing a pump won't fix that problem for sure. The AFPR isn't needed but it I would recommend getting one. They aren't that expensive anyhow.

^ What is a boost leak test

?

adidasdudegst · 08-31-2009

No boost leaks, I have done a test, and have 22vac. I have a 1999 GS-T @ 103,000 miles. Here's the list of mods:

- Full 3" Turboback exhaust (Megan Racing Downpipe to Thermal R&D Catback)
- K&N Filter with intake pipe
- 2.5" UICP with NGR Type S BOV
- Godspeed FMIC with 2.5" piping
- NGK BPR6ES gapped @ .29-.3
- Hallman Pro Manual Boost Control
- Stock Turbo
- Stock Fuel Pump

Thanks for the help!

Forced Fed · 08-31-2009

It sounds like fuel cut to me, but there are easy ways to start eliminating things. I would first start with putting the boost back to stock, especially if you don't have a way of compensating for extra fuel / boost. Do you have a chip, S-AFC, or larger injectors by chance?

If you are still experiencing this problem after going back to stock boost, it wouldn't hurt to through in some new BPR7ES plugs since they are so damn cheap and gap them at .24. If you drive during the winter BPR6ES would work just fine as well. I personally used to change my plugs every 5k miles or 3 months, whatever came first.

Also grab your self some new plug wires while you are at it, best options would be MSD 8.5mm or Taylor 10.2mm wires. Put some petroleum jelly in the boots of the plug wires for optimum performance, this can be found at any local parts store for cheap in little packets, you only need one.

adidasdudegst · 09-01-2009

Yeah, when the boost is put lower to around 11-14psi, there is no problems, so that's why I was thinking that it was hitting fuel cut, and getting a new fuel pump would help solve the problem.

I just changed the plugs, and am getting new wires soon. However I don't think that's the issue. I could be wrong but.. it honestly seems like fuel cut...

So I am trying to figure out, if I purchase a Walbro 255 fuel pump, would I be able to install it without getting a fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks

Kevin 1G Drummer · 09-01-2009

How is installing a fuel pump going to combat fuel cut? Some people have gotten away with a 255 on a stock regulator, but I wasn't one of them. I blew out the diaphragm in two stock regulators before I got an Aeromotive regulator.

slowbubblecar · 09-01-2009

If I were you, I would drop the boost until I have the supporing mods and ability to tune it. I would install some bigger injectors, a bigger pump (depending on what turbo you plan on upgrading to) and install a AFPR. I would also buy a dsmlink setup so it is tuneable. I wouldn't be messing withe boost levels or guessing what a safe tune is without being able to tune it. The first thing you should do is go to dsmlink.

niterydr · 09-01-2009

Fuel cut is a ECU limit to the airflow. It is a factory setup failsafe that stops the vehicle from continuing to boost, incase of a wastegate failure. Adding a fuel pump would not fix the ecu mass flow limit as you aren't changing the airflow number. The higher boost is causing you to hit it. Stick to 14psi to be safe.
Next round of mods for you:
-fuel pump
-possible injectors
-fuel controller/tuning device
-tune or a way to monitor a/f ratio
-the stock plugs are fine now, go a stage colder once you get the fueling mods situated.

adidasdudegst · 09-01-2009

Ok, thanks for all the advice and help! It's most appreciated! I will look into getting a DSMlink soon, they are just so damn expensive, with the socketing and everything, I will have to save up...

So, I still would like to put in a fuel pump, sense mine is the stock pump from day 1, So would I be able to install a walbro 255 without having to change the FPR?

**4seasons69** · 09-01-2009

you can you will just run rich at idle. if you can swing it it wouldn't hurt to get an aeromotive one they're not that expensive

slowbubblecar · 09-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by adidasdudegst

Ok, thanks for all the advice and help! It's most appreciated! I will look into getting a DSMlink soon, they are just so damn expensive, with the socketing and everything, I will have to save up...

So, I still would like to put in a fuel pump, sense mine is the stock pump from day 1, So would I be able to install a walbro 255 without having to change the FPR?

I haven't had any problems installing pmups without a AFPR but I got them shortly after installing the pumps also. Problems with the stock FPR seem to be a matter of luck. Many people haven't had problems but it seems a limited amount of people have.

There are at least 2 dsmlink setups for sale in the classified section right now for good deals compared to new. Would be better to save your money and install dsmlink first but you wouldn't be the first one to buy it after modding the fuel system.

john · 09-02-2009

FPR is a recommendation, not a necessity. Considering what you say in regards to your vehicle funds, I would skip it for now.

I think the old guideline was 14psi stock, 15 psi with fuel pump, >15 psi with injectors and fuel control. I haven't tuned a car without injectors, you may be able to up it a bit though.

adidasdudegst · 09-17-2009

Ok, so when I go to buy the dsmlink, does it matter what I choose in terms of injector size? Because right now I have stock, but will upgrade to 550 or 660, depending on what would be a good recommendation for the setup I have...

**asshanson** · 09-18-2009

That is just what it will come with the first time you turn it on. The old 2g DSMLink would lose power if disconnected to the battery, so it's nice to have it at least close in case you don't have a laptop. But I think it retains the settings now without power, so it shouldn't really matter.

adidasdudegst · 10-06-2009

YES! so I finally got dsmlink! I'm still a basic user with it, and am trying to research and figure stuff out. so, if I go to a walbro 255, will I still want to get a AFPR, or will dsmlink be the afpr? Also, What is a good set of injectors to get? I'm looking at getting an evo III 16g and already have a ported evo o2 housing.

mike55112 · 10-06-2009

Get some 1000cc injectors,fuel pump, evoIII 16g and get that bitch tuned on e85.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 10-06-2009

DSMlink can't control your fuel pressure, so you should still get a quality FPR.

Depending on what kind of fuel you're running, some 660s or 720s should be good enough for pump gas, but if you're running e-85, don't go any less than 950s.