MEGA UPDATE!!!
Sorry I've been slacking on this for those that have been enjoying so far, I've been terribly busy both with the car and other life stuff.
So while doing my gauges I had to keep removing the gauge cluster surround and I planned on doing this anyway and did it to my last few DSMS, but that damn harness on teh left side where the fog lights, pop-ups and dimmer switch are is very short and leave you do unplug it purely by feel. Not a problem after so many of them, but still a little annoying.
Before:
In Progress, ignore those shit taps:
After:
So I wasn't sure when i was allowed to talk about this, but my new "16G" is actually one of MAP's EF1 turbos, it uses your old B16G or E316G and turns it into the EF1 rated to 47lb/min stock appearing turbo, I believe for $650. (check with them)
After spending years with a 16G, I can say that this thing is perfect for those using a 16G and hating, I mean hating the boost falling off. This thing holds 30psi to 7500rpm!!
Now some of you are saying, but your numbers so low, well 1. its a damn auto and 2. I don't have any dyno time with hit holding boost. My 340/340 (rounded up yes) numbers in a 5 spd would easily be about 370+, I'm already impressed plus once i get close to my old setup I'm sure that I will beat my oldE316G numbers 410/440 with a better powerband that will be able to at least hit the stock redline of 7k, but it should hit 7500rpm since boost can hold 30psi to there.
So I plan on keeping A/C as this is a street car nothing special really, but sadly DSMs were not designed with FMIC usage in mind. Esp. a 4" core. SO I picked up this to help cooling.
Just to be a bit more informative, this fan flows more than 2 12" fans used in most kits. I also plan to use a 10" for the A/C fan.
I also picked this up, since my stock radiator is missing about 3" of fins on teh bottom I thought it would be needed. Thanks Nick@MAP
Well the fan is pretty big and comes within about 1/2" of each end of the radiator so to use this I knew it would take some work, I'd looked at fan dimensions vs. core dimensions for about a month before manning up and buying them.
Fan install:
In progress:
End result:
This wasn't really that hard or even time consuming, I'm really happy with it apart from one small perhaps even major detail.
IT DOESN'T FIT IN THE FUCKING CAR!!
I wasn't really mad, which is surprising, more disappointed I think. Oh well good things come to those who wait, right? I just hope 1. this thing does work really good and 2. I don't have to wait too long (but knowing me I'll still have it sitting here by next may!)
Well time came to put this in and it would hit the J-pipe and a bit of my lower IC pipe.
well I pulled the piping and moved the lower end a bit and still no luck I need about 1" of space between the shroud and the J-pipe. So for now I'm still running my stock radiator and single 10" fan, a bit scary sounding I know but its working good so far.
My plan to remedy this for now is to relocate the radiator mounting point before spring time as I plan on having the A/C fully functional by then.
So after all that malarkey, I put the car back together and performed a boost leak test, just to find this:
I'm not sure how it happened since I don't remember taking the bov off the flange but it did, luckily I had a good person save me since their car didn't need one right away.
Mr. K Johnson/Santa gave me the one off of his car, thank you for that.
Anywho, after that the car got its balls back and successfully held its current 30psi setting to redline. I did order a new one for him and a backup for me incase this ever happens again. (hopefully not)
This was how the car looked after a couple of days of being in that current setup.
Thanks to Mike S./Mike 55112 for the air filter, i didn't have one that fit until he gave me one. I owe you one.
Well I also picked up a Non-cruise throttle cable because my stock pedal was stupid heavy and sticky. (Thanks Brian/1Quick4)
I really wanted to keep CC, but I guess it wasn't meant to be at least not on this setup.
After shot:
So car is running, I'm tuning uh ohs I'm out of fuels!!
IDC's are about 110,
I say!! Plus car is not cutting fuel on decel and having issue with idle/overrun. So i end up picking up a AFPR kit and fuel feed (filter to rail) kit from MAP.
Temporary location:
I gained about 20% ISC, but that still puts me at about 92% from my logs so more injector will be in plans for winter. I'm thinking about either the 1680 Hi-Z, 2150 Hi-Z or ID2000s. I don't want to buy another injector set again ever, but I do want to be able to use both pump 92 and E85 gas.
That brings us to the next thing:
I took the car up north on labor day saturday, well i attempted to drive it that friday night but it had some bad vibration in the driveline so i had to take it home and sat. i looked at it and found the carrier bearings inside diameter where the shaft goes had about 1/4" -1/2" of play, obviously that is where my vibration is coming from.
Anywho I drove it sat. regardless and it wasn't that bad if u stayed below 80, so no problems for me....
On the way up north I drive go to pass some slow ass people, cost is clear downshift, foot to floor hold on and, pop pop pop misfire at 5k. WTF?
Try again while logging, same thing. Feels like spark, fuck me these are new plugs. Anywho chill at the Gma's for couple hours load up and leave, let me try doing a pull. 2nd gear about 3500rpm foot down, nose up, bam!!! rev limit. I really need to learn how to drive this damn auto. Pull was clean! WTF?
So we end up staying I have some drinks sleep with my wife on a loveseat, great.
Next morning I'm ready to head home shower and chill, about 10 mins into the drive car is warm we get into some 55mph+ zones time to do some pulls. WRONG.
Car doesn't misfire this time instead it pulls lean but to the AFR tune of 14+, Fuck my life what is going on?
Well I haven't figured that out yet and I have the car with this removed:
I'm in the middle of installing new bushings, thank you Steve/Goatblower and Erik/MatchBX.
Side note here, but i found mitsubishiparts.net they seem to have the cheapest prices of anyone. Hope that helps someone.
Thanks to Tom/Blackawdtsi for all the help doing this.
As that pic shows i had to cut up the U-joint to get it out, my own fault though. I pushed the u-joint out too far one way and wasn't able to get it back thru. SO to anyone else trying this, BE PATIENT AND PUSH ONLY A LITTLE BIT OF THE CAP OUT!!
Or you get to have your car down for about 2 weeks since no dealer stocks this part. Oh well it will give me a chance to clean other things up on the car.
I actually, finally ordered an adapter fitting i needed for my in-car fuel pressure gauge so now I don't have to look at "err" when I look down. Plus this will help solve my current lean issue.
Check out: pegasusautoracing.com for cheap fittings and racing stuff, they are right in WI and it only took 2 days to get here.
While the car is down I'll be installing my old shift light, relocating the AFPR (hoping I have enough line), cleaning up the FMIC install (there were some things I didn't like) and that will probably take all my time till the parts get here.
Right now I should be able to achieve my goal this year of making a pass with the car and I fully believe it will be an 11 sec. pass. I won't be pulling anything out of the car other than the bag of tools in the trunk to do so and since the car can't really be pushed any other way I hope that I can get it done with just driving and some good ol' hook.
There are a few days left and I hope it isn't Oct. 31st (the last track day in this part of the country).
Bloody Seal Bounce Champion!
before a track day. 
Linear Mode
